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Heart transplant K11, don't ban me yet!

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RS Tom-Hundred View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 9:15am
Nice one!  Top fabbing! Thumbs Up

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schwen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote schwen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 8:13am
Awesome work
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote daskulthomas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2018 at 1:09pm

The way i came to this build was through an acquintance who i had talked to before with a GA16i B12 Sunny boosting it on a budget, which had run for a while and quite reliably.

When i found out the GA series were relatively easily fitted in a K11 i asked him what the requirements were to make it run and he came back with a surprisingly short list of components:

Turbo (appropriate size, whichi i had laying around collecting dust)

SR20 Injectors (270-370cc)

SR20 MAF

SR20DE Ecu (preferably w/ nistune to balance the maps regarding rich fueling)

 

Previously i showcased the exhaust manifold on a budget, the injectors were a little bigger expense as i didn’t have a spare set laying around since i’ve never been interested in tinkering w/ SR stuff. Through a respectable seller i managed to pick up a P10GT ECU, 269cc top feed injectors + rail + FPR (which delivers the same pressure anyway but spares never hurt) and S13 CA18DET MAF all at the same adress. With the recent decision to utilize a Microsquirt ECU instead the MAF and ECU turn out unnecessary, as the microsquirt utilises Manifold Air Pressure and Inlet Air Temp sensors to register the incoming density and calculate for fueling. When you compare this to a maf – which measures in Front of the compressor housing and throttle plate – it registers as close to  the inlet port as you can get which negates the eventual rich fueling when pressure drops in the inlet circuit by a Bov or closing throttle.

 

Anyway let me showcase the build for the fuel rail, the easiest and fastest way for anyone to do this is obtain an aluminum extrusion profile, or as listed on ebay ‘universal fuel rail’. Then cut to size, determine outlet distances, drill, tap the ends for hose barbs.. Straight forward stuff when using top feed injectors! It’s a little more difficult for side feeds, as the seats need to be machined etc, probably more cost effective to purchase something here.

 

In my case i had to adapt a little since the O-rings on the injectors protruded into the rail and would piss out gasoline straight on the head. I came up with some spacers i  made on the lathe that fit snug on the injectors and would rest on some seeger rings.

 

The stock pressure reg bolts straight onto the stock rail, to adapt for that (again, budget, holding out on aftermarket unless/until i really need it) i drilled through a big bolt and cut a little flange which i welded to it which bolts straight into the rail. There are SR20 adapters out there that mate top feed injectors to side feed inlet ports (these are way wider) so a set of them and some made up brackets considered the fuel delivery adressed.

 


Upon raising the rail I noticed the throttle cable needed a little detour, adjusting the bracket was a 5 minute job.


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timeshock! View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote timeshock! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 9:25am
Great update
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote surreyGT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 12:55am
this is superb keep the updates coming.
in the garage
P11 GT back on road/track
P10 eGT immaculate road car
BMW 130i sport (for wife)
350 Z new track car 2003
Swift GTi mk2 racing car 89'
Celica St162 GT coupe 1988
Several other 3.0 BMW's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote daskulthomas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 12:38am

Previous post may have been a little boring, onto the modifications that were made.

 

Space is a concern dropping one of these engines in a micra. Those who have tried the swap before tend to adapt the stock gearbox to a GA via an adapter so a K11 flywheel/clutch assembly can be fitted, preferably a 1.3 box since these are supposedly stronger. When that’s fixed 3 of the stock motor mounts can be assembled and the pulleys side is cut and welded with one motor mount left to worry about.

 

I for one prefer to keep the gearbox matched with the engine. Not only are micra gear ratios short, i don’t expect it to last long with the torque it will handle.  This requires custom motor mounts, drive shafts, and positioning later on, which i will discuss later on…

In order to save space prematurely i took the crank pulley to a lathe at my job. Since i am not using a/c cause it’s only hot a few days a year, the front belt pulley was removed. I forgot to take photos of the process or an before & after, but this is a vague photo of what i ended up with.

 

(Un)fortunate for me, the motor was bought with everything except the exhaust manifold missing. This partly had me decide to force induce it… the other part being i still had a T25 lingering around with no destination. I work with heavy metal on the daily and had always dreamt of building a manifold! I took some basic measures of the exhaust ports, written them down and decided to plasma cut a flange. As a metal working trainee i spent a few months behind an industrial plasmacutter that cuts pretty accurately and up to 15mm thick. A few calculated holes into scrap bits of mild steel had me leaving two flanges.

 

From here it was merely an estimate of where i’d want the turbo to sit, get some thick walled mandrel bends and angle grind like no tomorrow. I wanted the turbo to sit close and snug to the block as possible, but stay away from a Log manifold, as the idea of exhaust pulses pressuring the back of valves is something i wanted to prevent. The results aren’t quite an equal length, pulse tuned header, i ended up tacking together more or less a semi-log kind of design. As long as the exhaust flow directs towards the turbine i’m hoping to save wearing my head gasket if marginally.

 




After all was tacked i took it to an acquaintance to have it TIG-ged, less tension is created in the material this way and will save it from cracking prematurely. 

 

With the mani being so compact i forgot to think about the turbo’s orientation. I was  going to re-orient it anyway but with the wastegate so snug i’m curious to see how it’ll behave. I might opt for an external wastegate in the future.

 

Present progress:

Wiring the P10 ecu mixing SR looms with GA and CG did my head in, despite the waste of effort and $$ a Microsquirt MS2 standalone could be obtained through an acquaintance and am currently wiring that up now. Advantages include: bye MAF, hello MAP! (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) Losing about 6 plugs in the loom and space in the bay for smaller piping/air filter, full programmability of course, ease of wiring etc.

The only mayor adjustments that will need to be done are swapping out the CAS triggerwheel for one that’s MS compatible and adding a IAT sensor (Inlet Air Temperature).

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dunmanifestin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 7:55am
Welcome! Great work so far, keep it up and always more pictures!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RS Tom-Hundred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 1:15pm
Welcome to the club and good luck with the build - all looking good so far! Clap

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote daskulthomas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 10:02am

Thank you for a warm welcome, and thanks essNchill for fixing my broken links!

 

As for updates, still haven’t had it firing.

I’m consulting the P10 and P11 FSM’s on here to work it out, though showing an OBD2 style ECM harness layout, i’m hoping pinouts are more or less the same. I’ve had a go at turning the CAS by hand with the ignition on and i’m hearing the injectors clicking, so at least my timing is reaching the ecu and i’m getting fuel i guess?

Whatever it is that’s not giving me spark is before the coil (tested, and even then replaced with a spare. Also checked it with a light bulb just in case.), so i’m currently suspecting my PRW2 power ignitor, even though it’s showing continuity in all the right directions.

 

In the meantime some photo’s will be spammed from earlier stages.

 



Since i hadn’t heard the engine run some rattle straps were trown over a beam in the shed to take the sump off for inspection. All looked nice in here yet it had to be taken off anyway to create and entry for the turbo’s oil return, some beaded tube was cut off piece a scrap and welded in place.





In the spirit of ‘rather safe than sorry’ i decided a fresh head gasket wouldn’t hurt. This was also a nice opportunity to check the head, valves and pistons for any weird coloring or mayo (coolant meeting oil). Luckily in my case none of that was the issue, the existing head gasket looked practically new!

I had looked into MLS or copper options but couldn’t find much readily available. The design of the stock HG looks promising on itself though, and heard from an acquaintance that it is able to withstand boost creep up to 1.2 atmosphere (17 psi) through personal experience.

If it wasn’t clear already this is a budget build, i’m not looking to run ¼ mile times or 20psi of boost. If i can succeed in tripling the stock output of 60ps and maintain daily driveability i’ll be a happy man. I will take it out on track when it feels stable but this will mostly be used hauling parts and leave bimmer boys baffled at traffic lights.

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schwen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote schwen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 8:46pm
Welcome to the forums, what a nice read!
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