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Nissan Primera P11-144 stalling at idle

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URL: http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=60744
Printed Date: 19 Apr 2024 at 10:12am


Topic: Nissan Primera P11-144 stalling at idle
Posted By: mangoaddict
Subject: Nissan Primera P11-144 stalling at idle
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2012 at 9:14pm
HELP PLEASE !!! I've got a Primera SE+ P11-144 2litre petrol Estate. It starts from cold no problem, then after about five minutes or so stalls at idle & is temperamental to restart......if i lift the clutch slightly i can sometimes get it to refire without turning the key, & have to keep the clutch fractionally up to keep it running at idle. It had an idle control valve just over a year ago & although very similar symptoms, this doesn't seem quite the same. Bizzarrely this problem started after i had a new rear exhaust box fitted, but i can think of no reason why this should be in any way a cause. My mechanics have checked the hoses etc for air leaks, cleaned the throttle body, & run diagnostics with no results (probably due to the fact that the engine management light doesn't stay lit so isn't picking up any faults). It's running very rich at idle. It's been suggested that i get a throttle body with sensors, or that maybe it's the mass air flow sensor. If anybody has any suggestions i'd be grateful..................................................... 



Replies:
Posted By: Grim
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2012 at 9:35pm
funked maff sensor

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Sorry I scraped all those primeras ☹️


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2012 at 10:06pm
Thanks......that's pretty much what i've been thinking.


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 3:25pm
....just been looking around online & have read that the Lambda sensor can show the same symptoms....any thoughts ???


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 7:04pm
Are you getting stalling when slowing for junctions?
This is a common symptom of a worn MAF.

How many miles has the car done? The MAF typically wears out between 70K and 100K miles.

Genuine Bosch MAF assembly for the 1.8 available on exchange for around £50 from Eurocarparts and Andrew Page.
You would need the sensor from the 1.8 MAF assembly. T20 security torx (star with a hole) driver is required.
What year/plate is your car?

Might be worth trying the idle air learn procedure from the Service Manual. SR20 Engine Control Chapter, Page 47. Very easy.


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 7:20pm
Yeah, stalling at junctions & whilst sitting in traffic.
It's 'Y' registered, July 2001. Only done just over 87000 miles, which appear to be genuine as i've got the full service history.
 
I spoke with Eurocarparts today & it came in new at £250....ouch !!! But i'll try shopping around again to check out exchange prices. There are some OEM MAFs on ebay for around £40/50........although i've heard there can be problems with non genuine parts of this kind....???
 
 
 


Posted By: ragt20
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 7:35pm
you don't want to ask eurocarparts for a 2.0ltr maf as they cost a fortune ask them for the 1.8 one as mentioned in the post above yours...

and yeah unless you find a cheap genuine one on ebay, avoid them


-------------
FAO : Laurens, I am not Shaun.
FAO : bavs83, I am not Tan.
VZR-CHECK, VZR-N1-CHECK, P11 VE-CHECK, P12 20V-CHECK, XTRAIL VET-CHECK


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 7:35pm
The pre-2001 1.8 MAF can be made to work.
Yours will most likely have the thermistor on the MAF. Also identified by having 5 wires on the MAF plug. Older 144s have 4 wires and an external thermistor.

The thermistor is held in place in V-shaped terminals. Spread with a small screwdriver, move to replacement sensor and nip up with small pliers.

Plenty of people have used the 1.8 MAF on the 2.0 with no problems.
Moving the thermistor onto the exchange MAF also works.
 
Can't get pic working. Shown on this link. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/118911-maf-cleaning-and-possible-problem/" rel="nofollow - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/118911-maf-cleaning-and-possible-problem/
 






 


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 8:09pm
i too have a similar problem starting.  slowly losing revs and cutting out.
is the maf next to the air filter?


Posted By: ragt20
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 8:18pm
maf housing is actually connected to the airfilter box

-------------
FAO : Laurens, I am not Shaun.
FAO : bavs83, I am not Tan.
VZR-CHECK, VZR-N1-CHECK, P11 VE-CHECK, P12 20V-CHECK, XTRAIL VET-CHECK


Posted By: CB_182
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2012 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by imckay imckay wrote:

The pre-2001 1.8 MAF can be made to work.
Yours will most likely have the thermistor on the MAF. Also identified by having 5 wires on the MAF plug. Older 144s have 4 wires and an external thermistor.

The thermistor is held in place in V-shaped terminals. Spread with a small screwdriver, move to replacement sensor and nip up with small pliers.

Plenty of people have used the 1.8 MAF on the 2.0 with no problems.
Moving the thermistor onto the exchange MAF also works.
 

Can't get pic working. Shown on this link. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/118911-maf-cleaning-and-possible-problem/" rel="nofollow - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/118911-maf-cleaning-and-possible-problem/

 







 



Yup, that's what I did with my 2.0 2001 sport


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P11-144 '01 Sport manual


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2012 at 8:51pm
Thanks loads for all the advice....
I'm a bit nervous of trying the 1.8 MAF option in case i mess it up (i'm a gardener not a mechanic ! Smile ), but i'm going to ask around to see if i can find someone who'll do it. Definitely worth a go if it saves me that much money Big smile
 
Thanks again, i'll let you know if it solves my stalling problem...


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2012 at 10:03pm
It is reasonably straight forward.
Whereabouts are you?


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2012 at 10:16pm
Reading area.
 
It sounds pretty straight forward, i just can't afford to mess it up......the cars just swallowed £307 in front discs, pads & a caliper !!!


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2012 at 10:53pm
I'm from Woodley but live in Manchester. Can it wait until Christmas?Big smile

Check the number of wires on the MAF plug. It will be 4 or 5.
4 very easy swap.
5 pretty easy swap.


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2012 at 4:36pm
It's been getting progressively worse for a few months now, & is driving me mad....not to mention increased fuel consumption !
 
I'm waiting to hear back from an ebay supplier who does genuine Bosch MAFs to see what he comes up with, possibly around £100 which sounds bareable.........just.
 
If i'm still stalling my way round Berkshire at Christmas you may hear from me.............thanks Smile


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2012 at 11:05pm
where is the best place to get hold of a oem bosch maf?


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2012 at 10:26am
Eurocarparts.
Andrew Page if you are in the Midlands or above. Not 100% sure but think they will only deliver to Trade.


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2012 at 2:27pm
£318!
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissan_Primera_2.0_2000/p/car-parts/engine-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-management-sensor/?434700030&1&473b3edca687565ad4dd6febd84c83b3249cb62d&000009" rel="nofollow - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissan_Primera_2.0_2000/p/car-parts/engine-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-management-sensor/?434700030&1&473b3edca687565ad4dd6febd84c83b3249cb62d&000009

think ill try elsewhere, thanks anyway


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2012 at 5:09pm
You need to order this one. 1.8 Sensor works fine on 2.0.
 
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissan_Primera_1.8_2000/p/car-parts/engine-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-management-sensor/?434700000&1&866b038a052a5ea88b330b29b6806deff7d4d7e2&000009" rel="nofollow - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissan_Primera_1.8_2000/p/car-parts/engine-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-management-sensor/?434700000&1&866b038a052a5ea88b330b29b6806deff7d4d7e2&000009


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2012 at 9:44pm
I was quoted £215.....inc. vat & delivery by Air Mass Meter Specialists (tel: 02084622543) for original Bosch part no: 0280218096.
 
I'm still waiting for a price from an ebay supplier........will keep you posted.


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2012 at 11:33am
ok, cool.  i have read somewhere that the 1.8 isnt a straight swap, but needs some work to fit it?


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2012 at 4:56pm

If you have a pre-2001 car, the 1.8 is a very easy swap.



Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2012 at 6:40pm
ok, so it swaps over and i dont need to bodge it in anyway?


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2012 at 6:49pm
If you have 4 wires going to the MAF sensor (5 wires from around 2001) then the £50 1.8 MAF is a direct fit.
You will need a T20 security torx driver to remove the sensor from the housing.

Moving the thermistor is not a bodge but you shouldn't need to do it anyway.


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2012 at 7:03pm
Hmm, not sure, had it apart the other day.  But the torx driver on this one has a pin hole stopping you from removing it...?
Doesnt the MAF come with the sensor inside it?


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2012 at 7:33pm
That's why you need a security torx driver.
There's a hole in the middle.Shocked
Full set available for around £3 on ebay.



How much more convincing do you need to save £150+ LOL


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2012 at 8:15pm
Well, the latest price for an original Bosch MAF is £158.84 ex.vat/postage.......so by my calculation that should come in at about £190.60 + postage.
 
Hmm, i may just give the 1.8 MAF a try..........................................


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 11:50am
Will try the 1.8 then.  Also is it a T8 or T10?


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 11:50am
ah sorry T20....


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 11:51am

Pretty sure it is T20. A £3 set will guarantee the correct size.



Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 11:58am
what about ebay one?

eBay link removed by Moderator! Really?!?!?!?!?



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Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 7:06pm
Ebay MAFs very hit and miss.
I sent mine back twice due to poor throttle response. Some have had high emissions.

Genuine Bosch is the best option.


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 5:56pm
ok, will go for the 1.8!


Posted By: Riddley
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2012 at 8:19pm
Anyone know if the 1.8 one will work for the 1.6?  


Posted By: p11primeragt
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2012 at 11:17pm
The vc cover pipe going to the thottle body can kink when hot,can cause stalling at idle ,give it a wiggle !

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Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2012 at 8:34pm
Ok, now i'm really confused Confused
 
I managed to get hold of a MAF from a P11-144 that was being dismantled. It has the same code as the one i've removed from my car >PBT-GF30< however, the one from my car has a thin wire with what looks like a glass bead (not sure if this is the 'thermistor ??), which is not present on the replacement.
 
The guy i bought it from assures me that my car doesn't need this piece.
 
As advised, i disconnected the battery before swapping over the MAF.
 
For the first fifty miles the car has gradually improved.......fuel consumption massively improved, engine seemed to be happier, but most importantly the stalling stopped.....................................
 
BUT...it's now back to it's old ways !!!!! Sixty five miles done since changing the MAF, the engine management light is still on (was advised this would happen until it settled), fuel consumption is still at it's improved level, but stalling at junctions etc AGAIN !!!!!!!!
 
Any ideas gratefully received...........


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2012 at 8:52pm
PBT-GF30 is the plastic that the MAF is made from. Polybutylene Terephthalate with 30% Glass Fibre. Not the MAF part No.

You do need the thermistor. Your car will run fine without it but will cause the engine light to come on with air temp sensor error. Engine light = MOT failure now I believe.

It looks like the Eurocarparts one does now come with the thermistor you need. Someone else was talking to them last week and their website now lists the exchange unit for 99-02, rather than just 99-00.

The car can take upto a week to adjust to a different MAF
Does sound like you may have bought a worn out MAF unfortunately.


Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2012 at 8:58pm
Ooops, thanks for putting me right about the 'plastic' Embarrassed
 
I was wondering if the MAF might be a bit tired....but the guy said he'd refund me if any problems.
 
Oh well, back to forking out for a new one !
 
Thanks for the help.


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2012 at 9:07pm
http://www.eurocarparts.com/search/434700000/p/home




Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2012 at 9:22pm
Hey, just a thought...........do you think it would be worth putting the thermistor from my MAF onto the one i've just fitted ?


Posted By: redshark1
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2012 at 10:13pm
I'd advise only running a known good MAF and a new or reconditioned unit is as near as you will get as they are tested at the factory. Unless you can borrow one. I have a spare 1.8 one that I have loaned out at the moment.
 
 
1.8 MAF (£50 exchange reconditioned) does seem to work beautifully with the 1.6 as well as the 2.0.
 
As with the 2.0 this would seem to need the thermistor adding to avoid the engine light / give the ECU the right air temperature information.
 
Otherwise 1.6 MAF is £206 new (exchange reconditioned not listed).
 
Other brands? Just say no!
 
 


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See my Nissan Primera P11-144 common faults and fixes guide:


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2012 at 7:41pm
im going to buy the eurocarparts 1.8 bosch maf at £c85, but do i need to take the maf apart and swap the sensor which fits horizontally to the plastic part which fits the air filter and pipe?
if so, i am stuffed as the lower star drive nut is rusted to shit.

ideas?


Posted By: ragt20
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2012 at 7:55pm
yes that is the bit that needs to be swapped over

-------------
FAO : Laurens, I am not Shaun.
FAO : bavs83, I am not Tan.
VZR-CHECK, VZR-N1-CHECK, P11 VE-CHECK, P12 20V-CHECK, XTRAIL VET-CHECK


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2012 at 8:52pm
Grip the screwhead with some cutters. It should give enough grip to undo.

If not, a local garage should be able to remove it for the price of a beer.


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2012 at 10:11pm
cutters?  plyers?


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2012 at 10:43pm
Side cutters. Pliers won't grip.
Put the points in towards the sensor, so you are gripping the outer edge of the screw.
I have removed lots of damaged screws this way.




Posted By: redshark1
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2012 at 10:43pm
gaz, you can remove the fixing with anything which will grip it I would use mole grips if its too rusty to get the T20 security torx key on it.
 
You can then use the good ones from the 1.8 maf.
 
Don't forget to move the thermistor over if necessary as Imckay carefully explained earlier in this thread.


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See my Nissan Primera P11-144 common faults and fixes guide:


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2012 at 1:55pm
ordered the eurocarparts one for £89.
one thing i forgot to ask was, what is the little black sensor looking probe that fits to the very front pipe that comes out of the air filter box to the front of the car?


Posted By: redshark1
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2012 at 7:37am
That is the thermistor which tells the cars computer the temperature of the incoming air.
 
Some cars have it at the front of the air intake and others have it on the MAF itself.


-------------
See my Nissan Primera P11-144 common faults and fixes guide:


Posted By: Dad's Taxi
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2012 at 8:17am
Originally posted by gaz1234 gaz1234 wrote:

ordered the eurocarparts one for £89.
one thing i forgot to ask was, what is the little black sensor looking probe that fits to the very front pipe that comes out of the air filter box to the front of the car?

If your car has the probe at the end of the intake you will not have to mess around with the MAF, should be a swap without the thermister


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2012 at 7:38pm
cool, can this be the faulty part?


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2012 at 10:32pm
right, so replaced the air filter, plugs and maf and its still got a slight judder around 2k rpm...  how annoying, what else can it be!?!?!?!


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2012 at 1:28pm
The car can take up to a week to fully adjust to the new MAF.
Has the stalling problem gone?


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 12:46pm
Originally posted by imckay imckay wrote:

The car can take up to a week to fully adjust to the new MAF.
Has the stalling problem gone?
Yes, but only did it once, maybe twice!
Is there a reset procedure?


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 7:24pm
only cut out twice, but yes it seems smoother at idle.  But, already going back to bad juddering at c2k rpm...
:(
Must be a way of defaulting it?


Posted By: redshark1
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 8:27pm
I've heard of people disconnecting the battery for 24 hours to reset the ecu but I have not done this myself as I have not got a radio code with my car.
 
Also, I would check before doing this.
 
My new MAF took a little while to settle down properly, but it idled and ran smoothly. It just revved a little higher without driver inputs at first. I do hope you sort it out soon.


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See my Nissan Primera P11-144 common faults and fixes guide:


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 8:42pm
The fuel mix self learn values can be reset to factory default.
There is a procedure in the Service Manual. Have a look in the EC section page EC-142 for the 1.8
Again it will take up to a week for the car to learn once you have done this.
Usually only necessary if the car is running very badly on a new MAF.

Did you change the fuel filter?



Posted By: mangoaddict
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 11:32pm
Just to update......
 
....i ended up fitting a new original Bosch MAF specifically for my car (bought for £196.....as a birthday present !!!!). It has totally solved all the stalling/poor running/high fuel consumption problems. The car hasn't faltered since...i'd forgotten how much fun it can be to drive Big smile. Just waiting for the engine management light to go off now.
 
Would just like to say thanks for all the great advice given here...although i could have saved by going the 1.8 MAF route, you've still helped save money which could have been wasted trying numerous other solutions.
 
 


Posted By: Dad's Taxi
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 12:13am
Very glad to see you got it sorted. I get your frustration as I went there only a few weeks ago. (Ask redshark1)



Posted By: redshark1
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 7:46am
Well done mangoaddict! Lets hope we can get gaz sorted too!

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See my Nissan Primera P11-144 common faults and fixes guide:


Posted By: crazy taxi
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 10:57pm
Originally posted by gaz1234 gaz1234 wrote:

only cut out twice, but yes it seems smoother at idle.  But, already going back to bad juddering at c2k rpm...
:(
Must be a way of defaulting it?

Stretched timing chain?


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Old enough to know better, too old to change


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2012 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by crazy taxi crazy taxi wrote:

Originally posted by gaz1234 gaz1234 wrote:

only cut out twice, but yes it seems smoother at idle.  But, already going back to bad juddering at c2k rpm...
:(
Must be a way of defaulting it?

Stretched timing chain?
really?  can u explain?


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2012 at 6:04pm
This problem is now getting worse when engine is cold and/or when i have a full tank of fuel.
Its mainly happening now in 2nd and 3rd gear at 1.75k rpm to 2.5k rpm.  I have to floor it to get out of the juddering zone.

When slowing down in gear at low revs it also starts to kangaroo and the rpm dial (when dropping) starts to jump down, as does the gear stick.

Even if holding the throttle/revs at the same level it judders...


Posted By: Renegade1127
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2012 at 9:04pm
Originally posted by redshark1 redshark1 wrote:

I've heard of people disconnecting the battery for 24 hours to reset the ecu but I have not done this myself as I have not got a radio code with my car.
 


The P11-144 doesn't need a radio code, The head unit is hard-coded to the ECU via the NATS system.
If you take the HU out and stick it in another P11-144 it won't work, but you can still put it back in the original car.


Posted By: redshark1
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2012 at 9:33pm
Thanks very much for that helpful information.

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See my Nissan Primera P11-144 common faults and fixes guide:


Posted By: sarabolton
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2012 at 5:41am
Hi redshark1, I can't seem to see my post on here i'm finding this really hard to use.  I got an email that gave me your reply. Mine is a P12 I think.  I'm gonna take it back 2 the mechanics next week.  I'll ask about the MAF.  Just wondering if my MAF was really damaged for a while would it cause any major damage to the engine? Its been about a year I've had this problem tryin to get it fixed and i'm hoping its not ruining my engine. It really stinks sometimes too lol...so have you had similar problems?


Posted By: essNchill
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2012 at 5:53am
If yours is a P12, why are you posting for help in a P11 144 based topic?

If you have made a previous post in an irrelevant topic, that would explain why the post was removed - It doesn't help you and it doesn't help anyone else etc.

If you need to know what model of Nissan Primera you have, please see here:

http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/which-nissan-primera-do-i-own_topic194.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/which-nissan-primera-do-i-own_topic194.html

And then either start your own (new) topic, or find a P12 one with the same problems and tag into it.

Many thanks and take care,
Shaun


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Posted By: redshark1
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2012 at 6:28pm
Hi Sara. Shaun (above) does a magnificent job looking after us and is the reason (along with the fabulous members) this is such a great forum to be part of.
 
Please introduce yourself in the New Members section and post your problem again, giving all details that you have, in the Nissan Primera Help and Queries section. Then you will hopefully get people's ideas on what the problem is and what to do.
 
I think your engine is the same one as mine and I think that if I was having engine running problems changing the MAF would be the first thing I would try. I have a spare MAF and I have fixed a few paying member's cars now just by lending them my spare so they could see if it cured the problem (without them having to go to the expense of buying one unnecessarily).
 
Here in England we can purchase the original Bosch MAF as an exchange, fitting the new one and handing the old one in (for refurbishment by the manufacturer).
 
But post a new topic of your own giving all the details and let's see what people think.


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See my Nissan Primera P11-144 common faults and fixes guide:


Posted By: L-wts
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2013 at 5:34pm
Aftrr reading this and a couple of other threads on primeras stalling at idle I decided to by the 1.8 MAF for my 2001 2.0 SE

Just simply swapped the thrmitor wire to the new sensor and but the new sensor in my old housing.

The car is now running perfect and fuel economy is alot beter too :-)

£75 for the 1.8 maf or £300 for the 2.0 your choice. The sensors are both exactly the same only the 1.8 hasnt got the thermitor wire so you transfer it over.

If any ones unsure about how to do this or has questions just message me.

Lloyd


Posted By: nunofos
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 7:24pm
Sorry for bringing up the post, but I have que same problem.

My car, a P11-144 1.8 has a annoying problem, at cold starts if I don't rev up, the rpm drops and stalls. It went to a garage and they change the MAF sensor for an original Bosch one, the first day all ok, no problem at cranking or idleling, but the next day the problem started again, as well the engine light.

Anyone know what could be the problem? Also, could the shop put the wrong MAF? I searched and I found a lot of Bosch sensors, they installed this one:  http://www.mister-auto.de/de/luftmassenmesser/bosch-0-280-218-094_g3926_a0300!280!218!094.html" rel="nofollow - 0 280 218 094 , is the correct one? Anyone can confirm?


Posted By: gaz1234
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 8:21pm
Yep mine was the maf from memory


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 9:01pm
Welcome to NPOC.

Your problems sounds more like an Idle Air Control Valve.
A faulty MAF normally causes stalling or nearly stalling when slowing down for junctions once the Car is warm.

What Year is your Car?
There are 2 different MAFs. They are the same but one has an Air Intake Temperature Sensor.
If you need the Temp Sensor (5 Wires going to the MAF Connector) and it doesn't have one you will get a P0110 Error. It shouldn't affect how the Car runs though.

It can also take a few days for the Car to adapt to a new MAF but you shouldn't be getting stalling from a cold start.
You could try disconnecting the Battery for 30 Mins.



Posted By: nunofos
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 9:55pm
The first problem I encounter (before changing the MAF) was that in idle the car revs go up and down by itself, sometimes don't even started if I didn't revved, the moment I stopted the car stalled. Then they changed the MAF, no problem, no lights.

The next day, I encounter all the problems I said above. And yes, when I reduce to go in a junction the revs drops so much the car almost stalls and vibrate.

It's from 2002. 


Posted By: nunofos
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 10:04pm
Sorry for the double post, I can't edit.

I also hear a little whistle in idle (if I rev the noise disappears) that I didn't hear before all these problems. Tomorrow I will try the diagnostic to see what error the car gives.


Posted By: p11primeragt
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 10:46pm
You have a gasket/hose air leak.

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Posted By: nunofos
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 11:26am
Update: I tried to make the diagnostic but with no success. I follow the procedure in this topic(http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/topic8946.html), but the light doesn't blink.

I also record this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0MWUvbEGsM


I need to refer that all the problems started in one day. I stopped the car for about 2 months, it crank first time and for a few days no problems at all, one day it makes all that problems.


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 6:20pm
The diagnostic only works on the early P11-144
You can get a Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter that will work with Android and iPhone quite cheaply. Less than 10 Euro
Or a plug in OBD2 reader for a bit more 20-30 Euro

It is not easy to see if the bad running is due to a misfire or the low idle speed.

You can relearn the Idle Speed

Service Manual
http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/nissan-primera-factory-service-manuals_topic29493.html
P11-144.rar Get Winrar to unpack it.

See Chapter EC QG16 and QG18. Page 34 (Without Consult)
Warm the Car up fully
Turn everything Electrical off. Lights, Radio and Fan
Unplug and Replug Throttle Position Sensor within 5 Seconds

Nissan Connector Removal. Awkward if you don't know LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5chL4I8oyU

Presume you are in Germany from the MAF Link?
Which looks like the right one by the way.


Posted By: nunofos
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 7:27pm
Oh, so that's the problem.. I tried an electrical wire, a paper clip nothing worked ROFL

Thanks for the manual, tomorrow I will try that.

About que car and MAF, yes, I currently live in Germany, and i'm relief that the mechanic installed the correct one.


Posted By: nunofos
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 7:50pm
Update: I tried relearn the Idle Speed as imckay said, no luck. The problem continues, I also removed and cleaned the PCV valve just in case, no changes.


Posted By: p11primeragt
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 8:54pm
Read the fault code with a ob2 scanner then we'll know right away what the problem is.It could also be a coil pack that's failed.

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