Nissan primera P11-144 Airbag light constantly on

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   In need of some help here. My 1999 P11-144 has the airbag light lit constantly until (very roughly) 20 minutes of driving when it will go out. 

I have tried the ignition switch thing (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off) and it makes no difference. The light never flashes at any point with a normal start or with the 'test mode'.  

The manual I downloaded suggests that the airbag module fuse (10A, 23) is faulty so I replaced that. No difference. Fuse 12 (which also supplies the airbag module) is also good. 

As far as I know there are no airbags missing or deployed. 

So - can I assume the module is at fault and replace it with one from the local scrapyard? Is this a fairly straightforward job? 

Thanks, 
Jim

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Bandit127 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List NPOC Guest Joined: 18 Feb 2012 Location: Southampton Online Status: Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bandit127 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Nissan primera P11-144 Airbag light constantly on Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 8:59pm
	In need of some help here. My 1999 P11-144 has the airbag light lit constantly until (very roughly) 20 minutes of driving when it will go out. I have tried the ignition switch thing (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off) and it makes no difference. The light never flashes at any point with a normal start or with the 'test mode'. The manual I downloaded suggests that the airbag module fuse (10A, 23) is faulty so I replaced that. No difference. Fuse 12 (which also supplies the airbag module) is also good. As far as I know there are no airbags missing or deployed. So - can I assume the module is at fault and replace it with one from the local scrapyard? Is this a fairly straightforward job? Thanks, Jim

dcal Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List NPOC Guest A catchphrase! Joined: 29 Jan 2010 Location: sunderland Online Status: Points: 5303	Post Options Post Reply Quote dcal Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:07pm
	Mine did this it was crossed wires in mine try hitting the plastic front of the clocks, not too hard tho mind and i bet it goes off. Post back if it does.
	Sick of it!

Bandit127 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List NPOC Guest Joined: 18 Feb 2012 Location: Southampton Online Status: Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bandit127 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Mar 2012 at 3:24pm
	Cheers for the reply Dcal. I tried that but it didn't work. So I got my courage up and removed the centre console. I pulled the connectors from the control module. It all felt a bit sticky around there so I sprayed some brake cleaner on the contacts before giving the connections a good workout and putting it all back together. The light stayed on after that so I went through the test mode. No flashing light - just a constant one still. However the light went out the next time I drove away. Could be pure chance so I am not getting my hopes too high just yet. At least I know where the module is and how to get to it now if I need to get another from the scrapyard.

Bandit127 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List NPOC Guest Joined: 18 Feb 2012 Location: Southampton Online Status: Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bandit127 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Mar 2012 at 6:16pm
	An update from me on this. The light behaved for a few days and then reverted back to staying on intermittently. So I bought another ECU from eBay (£20). Nissan wanted £570 for a new one!!! I bought a set of security torx drivers from Halfords (13.99). The T50 was needed to remove the securing bolts. Caution was needed not to round the heads off as the torx bolts (plus one 10 mm hex bolt) were thread locked in and took some undoing. The light went out after 7 seconds on start up and has done that for about 6 times in a row now. But it was intermittent before, so I will not decide it is truly fixed for another week or so. If it is not, a new live supply will be needed. (The consensus is that a constantly lit SRS light is either a faulty ECU or the power supply to it). If this post helps another NPOC reader to fix their problem - please note that the negative terminal on the battery must be disconnected for the time it takes to drink a cup of coffee (and smoke a fag in my case) before starting work.

Bandit127 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List NPOC Guest Joined: 18 Feb 2012 Location: Southampton Online Status: Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bandit127 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Mar 2012 at 7:41pm
	Hmmm - since I can't post a How-To as I am not a paid up member I will post it here. I shouldn't need to be a paid up member to contribute to the how to section as the guides benefit the whole of the community of Primera owners world wide. I urge the admins to reconsider this restriction. Anyway - here we go. You have a perpetual license to use my words and picture while it is for the benefit of all Primera owners. I urge you to post what follows in the how to section in return. How to replace the airbag ECU/module in a Nissan Primera P11-114 Safety advice. Airbags are explosive devices. The utmost respect must be paid to the warnings written on the ECU. You must disconnect the battery negative terminal and leave it for at least 15 minutes before disconnecting the ECU. You will need. A cross head screwdriver. A 10 mm socket or spanner. A 50 mm security Torx driver (the type with the hole in the centre). I used an allen key type from Halfords and that worked fine. A pair of needle nosed pliers for the cable retainers. Thread locking compound. Where you need to get to... The ECU sits directly behind the handbrake lever. You need to release the centre console and prop it up out of the way to gain access. http://www.bandit127.com/images/IMAG0029.jpg Let's go... Start by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery using a 10 mm spanner or socket. Have a coffee while you wait for 15 minutes to let the power dissipate. Unclip the small tray beneath the handbrake lever. This reveals 2 cross head screws that you can remove. Remove the gear knob. Mine simply unscrewed (a normal right hand thread). Unclip the gearstick surround and remove it. It unclips up from the rear of the gearstick. Remove the connector for the cigarette lighter and unscrew the bulb holder for the ashtray. Release the cable clips using the needle nosed pliers. Shift the front seats fully forward. There are 2 cross head screws on the rear of the console that screw in to the exhaust tunnel. You can get to these sitting in the rear seat. Remove them. The console should now lift out of the way. Good stuff so far - you should now be looking at the ECU. Please read the safety advice written on it... Use a 10 mm spanner/socket to remove the hex head bolt. It has thread retainer on it and a screwdriver will not shift it (the voice of experience speaks...) Use the T50 security driver to remove the other 4 bolts. Take care to make sure the driver is well seated - the bolts are tight and a rounded head would be a disaster. Remove the shroud (I guess that is to stop people setting the airbags off by kicking the ECU). Remove the 3 connecting plugs. Simply push the clips down that are on top of the plugs. Pull them out carefully and dead straight - the pins are very thin... You can now remove the ECU. Reverse the procedure to put it all back together. Use new locking compound on the 3 T50 screws and the 10 mm hex head bolt. Good luck!