Haven't got a Primera........... |
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2003P122015
NPOC Guest Joined: 10 Jan 2015 Location: UK Online Status: Points: 20 |
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Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 12:10am |
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..............but my father-in-law had a P12 with a misfire.
Looking for how to do some sort of diagnostics, on a well known search engine, led me here. I did the "pedal stomp" test for the flash codes and found nothing. When driving the car I noticed that it was not a misfire but a refusal to accelerate when the indicator was on. I also noticed the rear fog symbol lighting dimply when the brake pedal was pressed - obviously a bad / common earth. A quick search with the same search engine for misfire / loss of power and bad tail light earth confirmed the connection between the two. Another search on here for how the lights come out (easy once you know the bolts are behind the trim). Then I set about the fix. I'll be honest, the fix on here with wrapping 2" of wire around the earth track did not appeal as a good permanent connection. Instead I soldered the wire to the earth track, easily done, sand paper a patch on the track to clean it up, tin the area scratching through the solder pool with the soldering iron tip and then putting the end of the additional earth wire, 1cm stripped and tinned, into the solder pool. Wire routed through vent as per guide on here. I also removed the insulation from the ring terminal, slid some heat shrink on the wire, stripped 5 mm, crimped the wire into the ring terminal and soldered that connection to proof it against moisture and corrosion in the future then heat shrinked. So far in confirming my tail light earth suspicion, how to remove the lights and the earth fix procedure I modified / improved this forum has saved me a fair bit or time. Other jobs I have done on the P12 are soldering new switches into two fobs, quite easy though a bit small to easily handle. Last thing I have now to investigate is an immobiliser issue. It went to the dealer 18 months ago, after a spate of this, and no fault codes were found. Problem disappeared for 18 months but is now back with a vengeance. So this week I will be cleaning the steering lock antenna connections because when it does it, it won't start with either key. Anyway, thanks for the info |
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2003P122015
NPOC Guest Joined: 10 Jan 2015 Location: UK Online Status: Points: 20 |
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Oh I've changed that fan "final stage resistor" or whatever they are called on these a good while ago too.
Are there any OBD II diagnostics on these things? What does everybody else use? |
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2003P122015
NPOC Guest Joined: 10 Jan 2015 Location: UK Online Status: Points: 20 |
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Well looks like I need to clean some contacts or get one of these
24168-BN00A (quiet in here echo........ ) |
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timeshock!
NPOC Guest Joined: 29 Jan 2006 Location: Newcastle Online Status: Points: 14483 |
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Hi and welcome to the forum
I don't know anything about readers so hopefully someone will be along to help guide you
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imckay
NPOC Member Joined: 11 Mar 2007 Location: Manchester Online Status: Points: 3374 |
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Welcome to NPOC,
Looks like you have found the forum helpful. Lots of people have followed the rear light earth how-to. It has fixed the problem and no reports of it coming back. Some have done it with terminals and crimping/soldering. Depends on the individual's skills and tools. A few unplugs/replugs of the antenna plug usually fixes the immobiliser fault. Depends what you want from a code reader. If it is just error codes and reset, any OBDII reader should be fine. Or keep stomping on the pedal. If it is live data, a bluetooth OBDII reader can be linked to your phone/laptop. Very cheap either way. Elm is a brand that gets mentioned on here. £7 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Small-Elm327-Obd-ii-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B0076EBRYG |
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2003P122015
NPOC Guest Joined: 10 Jan 2015 Location: UK Online Status: Points: 20 |
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Cheers I have one of the ELM 327 USB lying around bought years ago for something else. Finally I may have a use for it :)
AFAIK OBDII only covers engine. What do people do for the other electronics in the cars? |
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2003P122015
NPOC Guest Joined: 10 Jan 2015 Location: UK Online Status: Points: 20 |
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Has anyone ever cut to the chase and cut out the offending connector and soldered the connections for a permanent good connection? I have some nice self sealing glue lined heat shrink somewhere.
Just thinking next steps depending on what that repair part looks like |
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imckay
NPOC Member Joined: 11 Mar 2007 Location: Manchester Online Status: Points: 3374 |
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The Elm with the right software (e.g Torque) will get you air flow, etc.
If you mean access to the immobiliser, audio, screen etc. I am prety sure it is Nissan only. Clarion can reset the AV. Possibly some Auto-Electricians - A few reports of used Radios/DVDs and new keys being coded. The unplug and replug seems to work for the immobiliser antenna. Some have also used contact cleaner. No reason not to cut and solder if you prefer. http://www.npoc.co.uk/FORUM/nissan-primera-p12-nats-problem-urgent-please_topic47690_post632843.html |
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Electrolyte
NPOC Guest Joined: 12 Aug 2011 Location: Ba-Bru City Online Status: Points: 1368 |
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24168-BN00A ......Heath Robinson if ever I saw it, the problem is oxidation of the contacts causing high resistance and attenuating both voltage and signal levels.
ELM327 has been copied by the Chinese, worth checking out ELM's own site. If you found fitting tactiles to a remote fob tricky then I would steer well clear of trying to hard wire to a sub-min socket. Only the petrol models are supposed to have self diagnostic readout using the pedal method but some diesel owners have managed to access it. OBD's only apply to the engine, other sub systems have there own diagnostics which are explained in the service manual. |
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If in doubt give it a clout!
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2003P122015
NPOC Guest Joined: 10 Jan 2015 Location: UK Online Status: Points: 20 |
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Yep, best solution for corroded contacts in joints is no contacts. I've had a read through most of that link and the embedded link though not seen any pics of the offending article yet
That's what I had figured from reading.
Oh I'll try the one I bought about 5 1/2 years ago in any case, copied or not because I have it to hand, and it's not been used for anything else so time it earned its keep / got dusted off.
Easily done, harder to position than to do as flat bottom switches don't want to sit on tinned (slightly domed) pads so want to slide before it's sweated on. That said I need to see how it is on the car as not seen any pictures. If the socket is moulded into the pickup I would have to solder to the pins, if the socket is on a flying lead from the pickup, no need to worry about soldering to the socket just cut it off and go wires to wires.
If the other stuff is out of reach for whatever reason so be it. AFAIK nothing else needs attention. Just part of be prepared is knowing this stuff before a car breaks, Thanks folks |
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