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Nissan Primera P12 F9Q clutch repair

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petterg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petterg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 2:07pm
I made a tool. I didn't get it to a perfect fit, but I thought it would be close enough. I measured the placement after fitting the pressure disc, and it was less than 1mm off.

Now as I'm trying to get the gearbox back in the car, it stops when there is a 2cm gap between engine and gearbox. Is this because my disc was placed that little bit off center? Is it supposed to slip in easily? Maybe my gearbox is just not perfectly aligned with the engine? How can I tell? Are there any smart ways to get it aligned? I'm not sure how much force I should use to get it in.
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p11primeragt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p11primeragt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 2:10pm
That's normal,very rare you get it to slide right on all the way without a bit of hassel,plus you might have dowels that need lining up on the housing? I cant remember weather they was some or not on these.

How are you lifting it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petterg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 3:20pm
I have it hanging from a chain. Then I use two load securing straps to pull it towards the engine. They also control the rotation of the gearbox somewhat in forward/backward direction. I also use a garage jack to adjust left/right sides up/down.

I had to move it quite a bit around before I finally found the position where it popped into what I'm guessing was the clutch disc. After I got it in there, I can't really move it around any more. I suspect it now hits the bearing behind the flywheel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote p11primeragt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 3:35pm
You will have to turn the gearbox slightly also trying either way and push it on at the same time.
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petterg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petterg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 1:15am
Well, this morning I spent hours trying to get the gearbox in. I kind of gave up before coming to the forum.
With your advises I went for a new try this afternoon. Then I just undid the two long bolts I put in for securing the gearbox while I was away, and the gearbox snapped in by it self!

Now I'm wondering what I've messed up during this operation....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p11primeragt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 10:12am
Nothing will be messed up,they can be a bugger to get on sometimes.As it's a matter of lining it up too ect.

Well done,thats the hardest part out of the way now,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petterg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 10:56am
I don't think the clutch / gear is messed up. I'm biggest concern is if I've broken some electrical wires when lowering the engine.

Or if something was broken the a rainy night with the hood open and the tent I had over the car blew away.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petterg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 11:20am
How do you get all the air out of the new slave pump when the bleeder is so far away from the pump?
What I've tried so far is:
1) Bleed until no more bobbles show
2) Close the bleeder and move the pedal a lot
3) Wait an hour
4) Repeat the process

I've gotten myself into an endless loop. Every time I bleed I get 2-3 bobbles. The clutch pedal feels spongy. I think there's air trapped in the slave pump that will not come out. How is it supposed to come out when bleeder is on the line, far from the pump?
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timeshock! View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote timeshock! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 11:36am
Taken from the ESM for the F9Q

*. Bleeding air from clutch operating cylinder according to the

following procedure.

Should be done by two operators.

Carefully monitor fluid level at master cylinder during bleeding

operation.

2. Top up reservoir with recommended brake fluid.

3. Connect transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve.

4. Pull up quick connector and pull clutch tube. (Do not remove

lock plate that keeps lifting. Make sure clutch tube is not

removed when it is pulled strongly.)

5. Pull clutch tube and open bleeder valve.

6. Depress clutch pedal slowly and keep it depressed.

7. When the flows of air and brake fluid in vinyl tube stop, insert

clutch tube to quick connector and hold it by hand.

8. Release clutch pedal.

9. Repeat steps 5 to 8 several times. When the air in vinyl tube

is completely bled, insert clutch tube and inset lock plate to

lock position.

10. Depress clutch pedal about 20 times, perform full-stroke

operation.

11. Repeat steps 4 to 9 again. Make sure that the air does not

bleed.

12. Insert lock plate to lock position.

13. Remove vinyl tube from bleeder valve. Install rubber cap.

14. Depress clutch pedal about 20 times again. Check that the

disengagement and engagement of the clutch are functioning

properly.Thumbs Up

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petterg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petterg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 6:53pm
That's pretty much the way I do it, except that I've let a vent on the tube be my friend. The challenge here is that the bleeder is placed 50cm from the end of the tubing. Hence it doesn't really bleed the new part where the air is.
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