Heart transplant K11, don't ban me yet! |
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schwen
NPOC Member Joined: 20 Apr 2007 Location: Spain Online Status: Points: 5225 |
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Welcome to the forums, what a nice read!
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P10 Army - G20.net MOTM April ´09 - NPOC.co.uk COTM April ´11
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daskulthomas
NPOC Guest Joined: 09 Sep 2018 Online Status: Points: 11 |
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Thank you for a warm welcome,
and thanks essNchill for fixing my broken links! As for updates, still haven’t
had it firing. I’m consulting the P10 and P11
FSM’s on here to work it out, though showing an OBD2 style ECM harness layout,
i’m hoping pinouts are more or less the same. I’ve had a go at turning the CAS
by hand with the ignition on and i’m hearing the injectors clicking, so at
least my timing is reaching the ecu and i’m getting fuel i guess? Whatever it is that’s not giving
me spark is before the coil (tested, and even then replaced with a spare. Also
checked it with a light bulb just in case.), so i’m currently suspecting my PRW2
power ignitor, even though it’s showing continuity in all the right directions. In the meantime some photo’s
will be spammed from earlier stages. Since i hadn’t heard the
engine run some rattle straps were trown over a beam in the shed to take the
sump off for inspection. All looked nice in here yet it had to be taken off
anyway to create and entry for the turbo’s oil return, some beaded tube was cut
off piece a scrap and welded in place. In the spirit of ‘rather safe
than sorry’ i decided a fresh head gasket wouldn’t hurt. This was also a nice
opportunity to check the head, valves and pistons for any weird coloring or mayo
(coolant meeting oil). Luckily in my case none of that was the issue, the
existing head gasket looked practically new! I had looked into MLS or
copper options but couldn’t find much readily available. The design of the
stock HG looks promising on itself though, and heard from an acquaintance that
it is able to withstand boost creep up to 1.2 atmosphere (17 psi) through
personal experience. If it wasn’t clear already
this is a budget build, i’m not looking to run ¼ mile times or 20psi of boost. If
i can succeed in tripling the stock output of 60ps and maintain daily driveability
i’ll be a happy man. I will take it out on track when it feels stable but this
will mostly be used hauling parts and leave bimmer boys baffled at traffic
lights. |
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CA18ET S12 GA16de+T25 K11 |
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RS Tom-Hundred
NPOC Elite Member Condiment King Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Location: Cambridgeshire Online Status: Points: 17725 |
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Welcome to the club and good luck with the build - all looking good so far!
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Dunmanifestin
NPOC Guest Joined: 28 Aug 2004 Location: Kent Online Status: Points: 903 |
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Welcome! Great work so far, keep it up and always more pictures!
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--Kuro P11GT Saloon-- COTM April '13
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daskulthomas
NPOC Guest Joined: 09 Sep 2018 Online Status: Points: 11 |
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Previous post may have been a little boring, onto the
modifications that were made. Space is a concern dropping one of these engines in a micra.
Those who have tried the swap before tend to adapt the stock gearbox to a GA
via an adapter so a K11 flywheel/clutch assembly can be fitted, preferably a
1.3 box since these are supposedly stronger. When that’s fixed 3 of the stock
motor mounts can be assembled and the pulleys side is cut and welded with one
motor mount left to worry about. I for one prefer to keep the gearbox matched with the
engine. Not only are micra gear ratios short, i don’t expect it to last long
with the torque it will handle. This requires
custom motor mounts, drive shafts, and positioning later on, which i will
discuss later on… In order to save space prematurely i took the crank pulley to
a lathe at my job. Since i am not using a/c cause it’s only hot a few days a year,
the front belt pulley was removed. I forgot to take photos of the process or an
before & after, but this is a vague photo of what i ended up with. (Un)fortunate for me, the motor was bought with everything
except the exhaust manifold missing. This partly had me decide to force induce
it… the other part being i still had a T25 lingering around with no destination.
I work with heavy metal on the daily and had always dreamt of building a
manifold! I took some basic measures of the exhaust ports, written them down
and decided to plasma cut a flange. As a metal working trainee i spent a few
months behind an industrial plasmacutter that cuts pretty accurately and up to
15mm thick. A few calculated holes into scrap bits of mild steel had me leaving
two flanges. From here it was merely an estimate of where i’d want the
turbo to sit, get some thick walled mandrel bends and angle grind like no tomorrow.
I wanted the turbo to sit close and snug to the block as possible, but stay
away from a Log manifold, as the idea of exhaust pulses pressuring the back of
valves is something i wanted to prevent. The results aren’t quite an equal
length, pulse tuned header, i ended up tacking together more or less a semi-log
kind of design. As long as the exhaust flow directs towards the turbine i’m
hoping to save wearing my head gasket if marginally. After all was tacked i took it to an acquaintance to have it
TIG-ged, less tension is created in the material this way and will save it from
cracking prematurely. With the mani being so compact i forgot to think about the
turbo’s orientation. I was going to re-orient
it anyway but with the wastegate so snug i’m curious to see how it’ll behave. I
might opt for an external wastegate in the future. Present progress: Wiring the P10 ecu mixing SR looms with GA and CG did my
head in, despite the waste of effort and $$ a Microsquirt MS2 standalone could
be obtained through an acquaintance and am currently wiring that up now. Advantages
include: bye MAF, hello MAP! (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) Losing about 6
plugs in the loom and space in the bay for smaller piping/air filter, full
programmability of course, ease of wiring etc.
The only mayor adjustments that will need to be done are
swapping out the CAS triggerwheel for one that’s MS compatible and adding a IAT
sensor (Inlet Air Temperature). |
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CA18ET S12 GA16de+T25 K11 |
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surreyGT
NPOC Guest Joined: 19 Feb 2016 Location: SW London Online Status: Points: 130 |
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this is superb keep the updates coming.
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in the garage
P11 GT back on road/track P10 eGT immaculate road car BMW 130i sport (for wife) 350 Z new track car 2003 Swift GTi mk2 racing car 89' Celica St162 GT coupe 1988 Several other 3.0 BMW's |
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timeshock!
NPOC Guest Joined: 29 Jan 2006 Location: Newcastle Online Status: Points: 14483 |
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Great update
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daskulthomas
NPOC Guest Joined: 09 Sep 2018 Online Status: Points: 11 |
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The way i came to this build was
through an acquintance who i had talked to before with a GA16i B12 Sunny
boosting it on a budget, which had run for a while and quite reliably. When i found out the GA series
were relatively easily fitted in a K11 i asked him what the requirements were
to make it run and he came back with a surprisingly short list of components: Turbo (appropriate size, whichi i
had laying around collecting dust) SR20 Injectors (270-370cc) SR20 MAF SR20DE Ecu (preferably w/ nistune
to balance the maps regarding rich fueling) Previously i showcased the
exhaust manifold on a budget, the injectors were a little bigger expense as i
didn’t have a spare set laying around since i’ve never been interested in
tinkering w/ SR stuff. Through a respectable seller i managed to pick up a
P10GT ECU, 269cc top feed injectors + rail + FPR (which delivers the same
pressure anyway but spares never hurt) and S13 CA18DET MAF all at the same
adress. With the recent decision to utilize a Microsquirt ECU instead the MAF
and ECU turn out unnecessary, as the microsquirt utilises Manifold Air Pressure
and Inlet Air Temp sensors to register the incoming density and calculate for
fueling. When you compare this to a maf – which measures in Front of the
compressor housing and throttle plate – it registers as close to the inlet port as you can get which negates
the eventual rich fueling when pressure drops in the inlet circuit by a Bov or closing
throttle. Anyway let me showcase the build for
the fuel rail, the easiest and fastest way for anyone to do this is obtain an
aluminum extrusion profile, or as listed on ebay ‘universal fuel rail’. Then
cut to size, determine outlet distances, drill, tap the ends for hose barbs.. Straight
forward stuff when using top feed injectors! It’s a little more difficult for
side feeds, as the seats need to be machined etc, probably more cost effective
to purchase something here. In my case i had to adapt a
little since the O-rings on the injectors protruded into the rail and would piss
out gasoline straight on the head. I came up with some spacers i made on the lathe that fit snug on the
injectors and would rest on some seeger rings. The stock pressure reg bolts
straight onto the stock rail, to adapt for that (again, budget, holding out on
aftermarket unless/until i really need it) i drilled through a big bolt and cut
a little flange which i welded to it which bolts straight into the rail. There are
SR20 adapters out there that mate top feed injectors to side feed inlet ports
(these are way wider) so a set of them and some made up brackets considered the
fuel delivery adressed.
Upon raising the rail I noticed the throttle cable
needed a little detour, adjusting the bracket was a 5 minute job. |
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CA18ET S12 GA16de+T25 K11 |
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schwen
NPOC Member Joined: 20 Apr 2007 Location: Spain Online Status: Points: 5225 |
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Awesome work
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P10 Army - G20.net MOTM April ´09 - NPOC.co.uk COTM April ´11
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RS Tom-Hundred
NPOC Elite Member Condiment King Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Location: Cambridgeshire Online Status: Points: 17725 |
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Nice one! Top fabbing!
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