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Nissan P12 2005 2.2 DCi - Desperate for help!!!!

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CJD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Nissan P12 2005 2.2 DCi - Desperate for help!!!!
    Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 6:26pm

Hi all,

New to these forums and desperate for help. It’s been a long 2 year saga that just gets worse. Today’s been a really bad one. Please if anybody can help I’d really appreciate it.

Bought a Nissan Primera 2.2 DCi SVE 2005 model from new – fantastic car and really pleased with what you get for your money. Problems started the moment the first 3 year warrantee ran out!!

I've written a lot of detail in the hope it saves time and gets to the point, sorry if it takes some reading!...


Took the car in for a service at 3 yr old and when I got her home and started the engine next day the idle was erratic (bouncy) for the first minute or so. Also when I put my foot down on the motorway and hit the 3500 rpm mark I seemed to lose power. It was as thought the throttle did not do anything more and the car stayed at constant speed until I lifted my foot off and put it back down again, then she’d carry on accelerating.

Took it back to the garage who said they could not find a fault but sounds like fuel pump! This put me off going back to the dealers. How can they suggest replacing the most expensive part with so little investigation – sounded like they were trying to rip me off!

One year on, the erratic idle got worse, dropping down to almost stall speed and bouncing back up to 1000rpm. I started putting the air con on just to keep the revs up – never stalled though and always started first time. The power loss on the motorway went from random to consistent, still lift foot off the accelerator and put it back down, power back again.

 

Problems have worsened, so now I have erratic idle, warm or cold engine. When warm the engine speed drops so low it cuts out, restart, engine cuts – takes a few goes to get it to stay lit! Also when I start the engine the dials all sit on zero with a bit of twitching. Takes 5-10 seconds for them all to come to life. She also drinks diesel now, never seem to get more than 40 mpg on a motorway run.

Today’s been really bad – cold start and the idle drops off and stalls. Even once the engine is warmed!!

I’m convinced its electrical and I’ve tried the following…

  • Replaced the Mass Airflow sensor – no difference
  • Unplugged temperature sensor – fans kick in, no difference
  • Cleaned as many connectors as I can find – no difference
  • Reset everything (battery off) idle stays constant on first switch on for about 5 secs and then returns to bouncing!

 

I now have the glove box off to check ECM connectors and I’m searching the web for help!

Please guys help me out

Chris

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Primera Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Primera Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 6:29pm
That odd sound like maf was the repkacement maf new?
Golf mk4 gti turbo. 3'' downpipe and de-cat, 2.75'' Jetex cat back, k&n induction kit and custom heat shield, 3'' intake, forge 007p dv, stage 1 190 Bhp map,Koni uprated shocks and h&r springs + more
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 6:35pm
Yep, the MAF was brand new but made no difference
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skinny_60 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 7:36pm
I've had a similar problem in that when the engine is cold or warm on start up, it doesn't idle nicely. It bounces around between 1000 rpm and 500 (ish) rpm. I usually stick the air con on to pick the revs up, or just drive, but it is a bit twitchy for the first few minutes. It's not as bad when the engine is warm but is still there slightly. Im not in the position to replace any parts at the moment though, i've just had to go halves and pay out for a new turbo and intercooler, d'oh!
Drive it like you stole it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote timeshock! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 7:54pm
The DCi has two Mafs one on the air filter and the other on the exhaust.
I would check the earth straps  from the battery to the engine and chassis, make a thorough examination and make sure the are secure and a good connection.
most likely is the suction control valve on the fuel pump, if t you do not get the dealer to do this you will have to get them to reset the system for pump learning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 8:44pm
Thanks for the input 'timeshock' is it an expensive job to replace the suction control valve?

Skinny_60 - mine started like yours, it gets worse over time!!!

Just to add, i've finished disconnecting everything behind the glove box and spray cheaning all the connectors. Put everything back together and re-connected the battery and - JACKPOT!! the tick over was rock solid. Right up until i pressed the accelorator and raised the revs, then streight back to square one.

Does this still fit with your thoughts 'timeshock!'

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote timeshock! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2010 at 6:26pm
Answering your 1st point above, it in my opinion is not cheap £250-£300, for an SVC but a fraction of a new pump.
 
Not sure what you have sprayed put back together..but you will have certainly done no harm and it does seem to have given a better conductivity, which still leaves a bad earth as a definite possibility, start with the cheap and simple. If the earths and battery are fine then look at fuel and air which is pump and MAF not in the correct order.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote renrut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2010 at 9:35am
As Time says - check the main earth strap to the gearbox - its known for breaking on the Dci however it would normally appear mostly as hard starting in cold weather. Also check the rear light clusters, again unlikely to be the culprit here but its quick and easy to check.

As Time says the major suspect is the SCV on the fuel pump - I had the erratic idle on mine and it started stalling and being a problem - it will only get worse. Just resetting the pump will be a temporary fix but you'll be back to square one after a short while if you don't get the valve replaced. Its a small price relatively speaking and other than turbos and earth straps the only thing to go wrong on the P12.
Now enjoying wafty effortless power.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2010 at 6:06pm
Thanks for the input Gents. I have a news update...

Spent all day Sunday taking the EGR to bits and cleaning it up. This did not fix the problem although I was very impressed with the amount of crap there was in there!

Gave up, bit the bullet and went to the dealers. The diagnostic showed no errors but the mechanic suggested the Suction Control valve which fits with ‘timeshock’s’ diagnosis. He did confirm that temp sensors etc were all reading fine.

He’s quoted £350 ish for SCV but if this does not fix the problem is looking to pump refurb at £1,250+.

Being Christmas, I’m now flat broke and don’t think my daughter would appreciate a SCV off Santa – She’s only 5!!!

So, the plan is to spend the weekend replacing the SCV (and yes I will need to take it back to the garage and pay £50 for pump re-learning / Reset). I do however have a few questions…

  • Can the SCV be fixed – I’m guessing that its probably a rubber seal gone or something which makes me think it may be serviceable. If not, does anybody know where I can get one from? Don’t want to pay main dealer prices if I can avoid it.
  • How do I take out the SCV? The mechanic say’s its an easy job which I should be able to do once the wiper tray is removed to gain access. I have the P12 workshop manual of the net 4,000+ pages and nothing on the SCV. I would really appreciate a guide as to how to get to this – pictures if there are any!?!
  • Is there any way I can do the pump reset myself or is this definitely a dealer job?

My suspicion is that it can’t possibly be the fuel pump itself as I get full power on the motorway and my logic suggests I should not get the fuel pressure for this if the pump itself was faulty.

 

Final question – what the hell does the SCV actually do!!!!!! And how could this create the problem.

 

Would appreciate the help and looking at the number of forums that only seem to skate over this issue, is sounds like there are many people out there with this problem that would also appreciate the questions above being answered.

 

Chris


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Janner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2010 at 6:27pm
wow, darned modern cars eh,

welcome to npoc Big smile

well im praying for you mate, hope you get it sorted soon!

all the best

Keith
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