Nissan Primera Owners Club Nissan Primera Owners Club > General Open Forums - NO TRADING! > Nissan Primera Help & Queries
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Nissan Primera P11 144 Sport+ CVT various problems
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click HERE to check out the latest awesome Club Video, courtesy of NPOC Member edk_N16 - Thanks Ed!


Nissan Primera P11 144 Sport+ CVT various problems

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
FluX View Drop Down
NPOC Guest
NPOC Guest
Avatar

Joined: 04 Aug 2009
Online Status: Offline
Points: 62
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FluX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Nissan Primera P11 144 Sport+ CVT various problems
    Posted: 20 Aug 2009 at 1:11pm
Smile

OK this is my number 2 car...

Its a 2001 metallic green P11-144 2.0l Sport + VT-6 automatic 116k
I bought it for £50 Tongue
A/C works fine, all electric windows, electric sunroof, ultrasonic alarm CD Player / Changer - all good, and apart from stalling randomly, it drives absolutely fine

Obviously its not without its faults for that price...
Cosmetic faults:
  • had a bump at the front which is hardly noticeable, but the bumper doesnt quite fit properly now, so the supporting member across the front needs pulling out a bit (only 1/2" - 3/4" or so)
  • Had several bumps at the rear - bumper is in desperate need of replacement, splits cracks and crunches all over, hanging on by a random screw at one side. Also a dent in the tailgate and its creased  and rusted.
  • Leather on the seats is cracked and split.
  • Driverside door handles both snapped
Mechanical faults:
  • Burns oil - maybe one or two pints a month, depending on mileage done. (there's no blue smoke or any indication other than checking dipstick)
  • Stalls randomly when warm.
  • There's sh1t loads of carbon covering the inside of the INLET manifold and throttle body.
  • Needs new disc's on front
I can sort most of the cosmetics immediatley - there's a green diesel in local scrapyard.
Door handles I paid a fiver each for chrome ones, they're on now.
Tailgate he wanted £40, I'll offer £20 cause its got some rust coming through just below handle, prob end up paying £30
Rear bumper will have to come off a blue one and get paint from halfrauds.
Leather split.. I'll have to live with that, maybe seat covers.

Mechanics...
Discs - scrapyard
Stalling - possibly the O2 sensor, IACV-AAC valve or EGR valve? Could be anything really, I been using moDiag software with fleabay special OBD tool from china - works quite well actually - shows O2 sensor as more or less permanently reading rich - which is not good, so new universal NGK one en route, £25 from local autopart dealer.
Burning oil - I don't know - I'm not a mechanic by trade but I've read enough to know its not an easy (or should I say cheap) problem to solve - new valve guides I think? or maybe cylinder head gasket gone somewhere? but surely I'd lose some compression and therefore performance - don't seem to.

At the end of the day, I can't afford to keep both cars so I'm either going to keep my 2001 1.8 silver activ and sell this, or vice versa, either way, I need to sort the stalling problem  first , so if anyone has some inspiration please let me know Big%20smile

And I know... it could also be MAF related - we been through this already with my other car
Back to Top
norbert eggcup View Drop Down
NPOC Guest
NPOC Guest
Avatar
Swiss Tony

Joined: 06 Dec 2006
Location: in a civic
Online Status: Offline
Points: 4439
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norbert eggcup Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2009 at 10:00pm
throttle body
the spaceship and the P12
Back to Top
imckay View Drop Down
NPOC Member
NPOC Member


Joined: 11 Mar 2007
Location: Lancashire
Online Status: Offline
Points: 2787
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imckay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2009 at 10:30pm
MAF. Particularly if it stalls when slowing for junctions.
Cleaning won't help for this fault.
 
The output of the MAF adjusts the fuelling which may explain the rich reading from the O2 sensor.
 
The MAF from your 1.8 might be the same. I seem to remember the sensors are the same, it's just the size of the housing.
Back to Top
FluX View Drop Down
NPOC Guest
NPOC Guest
Avatar

Joined: 04 Aug 2009
Online Status: Offline
Points: 62
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FluX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2009 at 10:01am
Well  the stalling problem was not like that issue when stopping at lights... I've had that before with the 1.8 - yeah that was the MAF. But I cleaned it and it did stop it.

This car - the SR20 - just stalls as soon as it warmed up, then maybe every 10 secs or so after restarting.

So having nothing to lose really (apart from £50 that I paid - although I easy get that from a scapyard if I gave up on the car) I did this:-
I took out the MAF I got some electronic circuit-board cleaning solvent  called 'Fluxclene' and cleaned the foil element with it, I also used a very small fine soft artist paintbrush and very delicately brushed the element while flushing it totally with solvent.
Still stalling! Drives really quite well but wont idle .

So I tried the 'idle air volume learning' procedure from the SR20 FSM, but part of the conditions were that the engine should be idling at 750rpm for 20 or 28 secs or something.... well if it did that then why would I need to relearn it? Confused LOL!

Then I found this bit of info in the manual, in the HO2S diagnosis section...
(I also explained this in another post if you read this already)
Quote
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF”.
3. Disconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector, and restart and run engine for at least 3 seconds at idle speed.
4. Stop engine and reconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector.
5. Make sure diagnostic trouble code No. 0100 is displayed in Diagnostic Test Mode II.
6. Erase the diagnostic test mode II (Self-diagnostic results) memory. Refer to “HOW TO ERASE EMISSION-RELATED DIAGNOSTIC
INFORMATION”, EC-SR-56.
7. Make sure diagnostic trouble code No. 0000 is displayed in Diagnostic Test Mode II.
8. Run engine for at least 10 minutes at idle speed. Is the 1st trip DTC 0171 detected? Is it difficult to start engine?


I did that and hey feckin presto
SR20 stalling problem is sorted now!!!

now onward to the cosmetic repairsBig%20smile

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

This forum is optimised for a 1024x768 screen resolution

Copyright © 2001-2014 Nissan Primera Owners Club. All rights reserved.