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Nissan Primera P11-144 CD20T - outer CV joint

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ash_earwig View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ash_earwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Nissan Primera P11-144 CD20T - outer CV joint
    Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 2:25pm
I have the (evidently) common ABS "kicking in at low speed" problem and can see from trawling various threads on the forum that it is usually caused by dodgy ABS rings; indeed, having checked both front CV joints, I can see that I have a tooth missing on the o/s one. I intend buying a replacement joint from ebay and fitting it myself; I'm fairly with-it mechanically, but I have to say that I'm a little confused as to how to remove the old one. I have seen this comment from a previous thread:
 "it's even easiier than that. yes driveshaft can stay in the box. remove the wheel, remove the 2 suspension strut bolts, and the 18mm nut that holds on the extra suspension link, unclip the abs wire so you dont stretch itpull the hub away from the strut, remove hub nut and washer, remove driveshaft from the hub, remove the clip on the boot. move the boot backwards and wallop with a copper mallet, no circlip fitted. then refit in reverse order. hope this helps" Copyright riggsy99 :)

but... I can't identify the 2 s/s bolts and the 18mm nut... that is referred to above. My manual seems to be giving different instructions as to how to remove & replace (equally not quite clear enough).

Can someone please give me some simple, clear instructions as to how best to remove the old CV joint? I do know one end of a spanner from another, but I'm used to using Haynes manuals (which I find to be very clear) to do this sort of work; perhaps I've been spoilt.

Also, has anyone had any particular problems (or can recommended a seller) when buying a replacement CV from ebay?

Thanks.
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JOHNR View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JOHNR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 3:42pm

this might be the method for the p12 model ???

dont know what the p11 setup is but you might be able to remove it by undoing cv joint nut / split the bottom balljoint / split  trackrod end  then pull hub away from car and pull cv joint out!!!
pull back cv boot/rubber then hit it with a mallet!!!
 
if not someone will be along who has done one on a p11
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imckay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 6:47pm
Welcome to NPOC,
I had my local garage replace mine, so can't help with removal.
There are 2? different types of CV joint. Make sure you get one with the right amount of teeth on the ABS ring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ash_earwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 8:24pm
Thanks for the replies, and sorry to bump this, but I wonder if any of you guys (or girls) out there have replaced a CV joint on a P11?

Rgds,
Ashley
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ash_earwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2011 at 10:12am
Having just replaced both outer CV joints, I thought I'd share my experience with forum users, for the record. The first one (O/S) took ~2.5 hours to do, the N/S one took ~1.5 hours.

1.  Remove wheel trim. Slightly loosen wheel nuts. Remove split pin from hub and slightly loosen large hub nut - I had to use a large bar and some "persuasion" (a 3ft tube over the end of the bar) to loosen this nut.
2.  Jack up and remove wheel. I added a couple of axle stands at this point to supplement my trolley jack for support and peace of mind.
3.  Remove the hub nut.
4.  Remove the dome-shaped dust cap from the top of the knuckle - I used a gardening knife and hammer around the edge to loosen this and could then get a screwdriver in to pry it off. Slightly loosen the kingpin nut that is then exposed. Pop the dust cap lightly back into position. It's easier to do this while there is space, rather than when the brake caliper is suspended just there.
5.  Remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper to the knuckle (these are round the back of the caliper and also needed some force to remove. Remove the caliper from the disk - I had to lever back the pads slightly to allow the caliper to clear the rusty rim of the disk (disk cleaned up and rim filed down prior to re-fitting).
6.  With wire/cable ties, secure the caliper as high up out of the way as possible, but make sure that the flexible brake hose is not put under strain/twisted.
7.  Remove the brake disk.
8.  Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle by removing the split pin, undoing the ball joint nut and separating with - you guessed it - a ball joint separator. I removed the nut, reversed it and used a scissor-type separator.
9.  Remove the dust cap and the kingpin nut loosened in 4. The knuckle can now be pulled downwards until the upper pivot comes out of the socket.
10.  A few sharp taps with a hammer on the end of the hub will loosen the CV joint from the knuckle; preferably use a soft metal hammer and temporarily replace the hub nut, rather than bashing the end of the shaft. By pulling the knuckle out, pushing the shaft in and generally jiggling around, separate the shaft from the knuckle.
11.  Remove both bands that secure the rubber gaiter and slide the gaiter back along the driveshaft to make access to the CV joint easier (alternatively, cut off the gaiter if it's being replaced). This is where it gets rather messy: I tried to clean inside the gaiter and CV joint to remove as much of the old grease as possible - but you will still end up making a mess.
12.  The CV joint is held in place by a snap ring which locates in a groove in the drive shaft and is inaccessible with the CV joint fitted. To remove the CV joint, give it a sharp bash with a hammer on the swivelling part of the joint; you need to try to keep the joint in line with the rest of the axle and hit it from the inside of the car to the outside quite hard. This was quite tricky, as space is limited, but mine came off after some persuasion - you're just trying to overcome the resistance of the pesky snap ring.
13.  Refitting is just the reverse of removal, but note that, when fitting the gaiter, you should fit the large band, then pop a screwdriver carefully in between the drive shaft and the small band end to ensure that the gaiter has enough air inside to rotate without deforming (check this before fitting the small band by turning onto full lock in both directions and rotating the axle; then fit the small band. I did not remove the ABS sensor - if you're reasonably careful with the knuckle, there is no undue strain on this part (also it didn't seem to want to part company with the knuckle anyway!).

Sorry if this seems a bit long-winded - I know that some of these things may seem v. obvious, but I thought I'd document it properly. I hope it's a comprehensive recipe for those wishing to do the same.

BTW, perhaps one of the mods could change the title of this thread to be "...P11 144..." as this is the correct model I have (Doh!).

Ashley
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simple-jack View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simple-jack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2012 at 11:47am
Ok so i have a p11-144 and need to replace the o/s cv joint 
apparently there are different types with different numbers of teeth on the abs ring?
i asked the guy at my local jim barkers who seemed clueless?
how can i tell or find out which is the one i need? (how many teeth etc)

many thanks

simple-jack (noob)
:-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote P_Pop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2012 at 5:16pm
ash_earwig,  Thanks for your description, it was good to have a second description of how to remove the cv-joints, I have also Haynes. The Description worked well for my P10M, where I changed the gaiters/boots on both outer CV joints this weekend.
I would just like to add a warning for others attempting this for the first time: And thats when refitting the cv onto the shaft, be careful with the so-called
"pesky snap ring", that it is squeezed together properly into the cv (I used a flat headed screw driver). Otherwise, you could have the same problem as me on my first attempt; where I tried to bash the CV on to the shaft - this resulted in a deformed snap ring and deformed shaft teeth Dead  So I had to file the teeth so that the CV could be mounted.
Also: As my gaiters were completely destroyed this winter, a combination of -17°C and age, and driving with them busted a few weeks, I completely disassembled the CV (popped all the bearings out) to give it a complete clean- just twist the inside and you can remove one bearing at a time until they are all out- just keep track of all the locations, so that rings and bearings are put back in the same place.
Finally a question to anybody: What are the symptoms of a CV joint that needs to be replaced?
Best, P_Pop
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