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Nissan Primera P12 ABS & Brakes

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redukdaz View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03 Mar 2019 at 11:26am
Good morning everyone

I hope someone can point me in the right direction

The car is getting on a bit now (DG56 reg), rattles a bit but it goes on and on like a stubborn mule!

Since the snow last month, we've been experiencing a strange and alarming problem - when we reach speeds of >60, we get an ABS warning display on the screen and we sometimes hear/feel a little crunching noise when applying breaks.

Part of me is wondering whether there is dirt/grit somewhere?

I've been going through previous posts as to what I should start looking for and fix (money is very tight at the moment),

Many thanks for any help - really appreciate it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote roy.2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2019 at 3:27pm
I would start with cleaning the ABS rings on all 4 wheels and see how you go from there. Thumbs Up
Look out for a cracked or broken ring.
Roy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redukdaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2019 at 3:36pm
Hiya Roy, thanks for that

I'm a complete beginner for maintenance (I've replaced a window regulator and fixed the loss of power due to an earth wire in the rear indicators)

What should I be looking for with the ABS rings? Is it get under the car jobby (I'm not phased), or am I able to look beside the car? (I'm trying to find something on youtube as a reference)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bavs83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2019 at 5:36pm
You'll need to jack the car up one corner at a time it can be inspected without taking wheel off (fronts only) but better/easier overall if taken off (rears you'll definitely need to take off wheel).

Look where the CV joint is (wheel side) and you'll see a ring which looks like a cog (see picture of abs ring on internet)
Rotate the wheel/hub and spray clean this as well as the abs sensor with brake cleaning fluid. Inspect ring to see if it's cracked/split. If so then this is a problem (not difficult to fix)
I find it easier to clean by disassemblin the brakes and giving it (abs sensor) a good all round clean (often there will be metal filings on) and service brakes at same time (don't have to service breaks but you may as well.....your half way there!).
To replace the abs ring I find its easier just to replace CV joint with new. You can buy ring on its own but it's difficult to replace without taking CV joint off. May as well replace it all for new unit. Rear is same but it's not a cv joint it's on the actual hub.

If you do this and it's still occurring, then it's a faulty sensor that needs replacing.

Not sure about the p12 but the p11-144 had a self diagnostic mode which can help pinpoint which sensor/area is at fault.
Its not what you drive....Its about how you drive it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redukdaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2019 at 8:26pm
Hiya mate, thank you soo much for taking the time to write that - that's really good info!

I've been on youtube and been watching these amongst others:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_gOSd_8yIo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuXJUmaiCaI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRSuxulZ5Hs

The ABS looks pretty much the same in all cars, so at least I will know what to look for!

In terms of treating this particular area, do I use 'kid gloves' or do I go at it like a raving loony having a temper tantrum (so I know how much pressure to use on the parts)

With the CV joint, is that a relatively easy thing to replace as an end user? (I work in the construction industry and am used to pushing/pulling/whacking things to get them going)

Hopefully this wind will ease off and I can get outside to do, at the moment with it, is it something I should really worry about (as in, life threatening issue and shouldn't use the car), or can we use the car for shopping trips (providing e don't do above 60 when it kicks in)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bavs83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2019 at 10:15pm
To look at the abs and taking things apart don't use excessive force. WD40 to release nuts n bolts is a must (removing caliper and disc). Last thing you want is something snapping because it's seized. I always put WD40 on rusted nuts n bolts leave for a while then have a go at opening. You'll figure it out I have no doubt.

If it's a case of changing CV join. This is where you need a bit more force and power. (Details for front of car)

1. Jack up car remove wheel.
2. Remove split pin from centre hub.
3. Put wheel back on minus centre cap and lower car to floor.
4. Use brake bar and correct size socket to crack open hub center nut.
5. Repeat step 1.
6. Remove center nut, brake caliper(hang up using rope), disc etc. etc.
7. Remove cv boot. Rip off or remove nicely. You'll need to remove cv shafts from hub. Can't explain this properly via text. But in the end the cv joint is attached to drive shafts but when you let go cv joint 'flops down'.
8. Better if you have a helping hand here. One hand to hold drive shaft firmly into gearbox. One hand to hold cv joint straight in line with drive shafts. Used a good lump hammer and whack the back side of cv joint to free from drive shafts. May need to rotate the shaft/cv joint and attack again several times. CV joint will come off.
9. Clean drive shaft. And inspect.
10. Make sure you put the new cv rubber on now if replacing.
11. Grease up the cv joint liberally with grease supplied.
12. Put bit of grease on drive shafts.
13. Put the old and new nut on new cv joint. Put the nuts so it's flat or slightly proud of the cv shaft. I put both on and counter lock.
14. Ensure the c-clip on end of drive shafts is OK. And grease this up well.
15. Line up the drive shafts and cv joint. Whack the cv joint in place (this is why we put the nuts on end of new cv joint to stop it being damaged and for good large surface area to whack)
16. Reassemble a very thing but make sure you clean disc brakes with brake cleaner to free off any dirt and grease.
17. Put centre nut back on.
18. Put wheel back on and drop car.
19. Tighten centre nut to torque spec.
20. Remove wheel and pit in new split pin.
21. Put wheel back on with centre hub.
22. Admire your work.

Having a brew through the process is optional but highly recommended. Some swearing may be involved but don't worry this is normal and shouldn't put you off from the process.

Have a look at a video on changing cv joint for any car and this will guide you more.

Good luck with it all.
Its not what you drive....Its about how you drive it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bavs83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2019 at 10:27pm
If when your hitting the old cv joint off, it doesn't come off. You'll need to remove the whole drive shafts from gearbox.
Put the whole shaft in a bench vice and use brute force. This is quite rare tho. I've had to do it twice in all the cv joints I've changed. You will loose some gear box oil. Be quick to plug hole. And refill to level upon refitting.
Its not what you drive....Its about how you drive it!
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