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Nissan Primera P11 144 Fault / Error code P0171

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Printed Date: 28 Mar 2024 at 10:31am


Topic: Nissan Primera P11 144 Fault / Error code P0171
Posted By: Keithyblues
Subject: Nissan Primera P11 144 Fault / Error code P0171
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 9:46pm
I have a Primera P11-144 and recently called out the AA becasue the engine management light came on. The Engineer plugged in the PC and at told him fault code P0171 (Fuel sysem lean, bank 1). He found a breather pipe from the top of the rocker cover to the air intake just after the air filter. He replaced the pipe and reset the fault code.
Car had always been running fine (and still is), but after a few miles the management light came back on.
Anyone had this problem and know how to solve this?
 
Thanks
 
 The engineeerP11-144 PRIMERA



Replies:
Posted By: EVOGT
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 10:19pm
Front o2 sensor of maf, but a fault with either seems to through the same code. Mine was a front o2 sensor but Steve's was a faulty maf.

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http://www.rossifiles.com/" rel="nofollow - Rossi Number 46


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 10:26pm
Having the same problem with mine, light came on and code 0171.
I replaced the manifold (front) o2 sensor with a univerasal 3 wire (£38 from motor factors and spliced it to original plug) and thought I'd solved it, but the engine started hunting when around 1800 rpm and would idle ok but then drop down to 500 rpm then cut out. Started the car again and would drive really well, had it not been for this occasional cutting out i wouldnt have thought there was a problem. I have ordered a MAF, but since then it has been steadily better and the light has not come on any more. It doesnt cut out either. I did clean the MAF by taking it out of its housing and giving it a good spraying with windowlene (glass cleaner - non smear type).
I'm just wondering if it was the ECU just adjusting to the new o2 sensor that caused the stalling? Well I'll have a new MAF soon and will keep it on standby in case it plays up again.


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Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 10:50pm
thanks Stevie. Is the manifold sensor you replaced the one at the front (looks like a spark plug from above)? or is it just above that (looks like an electrical connection block)? I have noticed that sometimes when sitting at traffic lights the engine revs go right down to 500 rpm, but doesnt cut out. The engine pics up on its own. I seem only to be able to get to the MAF by taking off the air filter cover and looking at it through the air intake tubing. Can I spray it with cleaner there?


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 10:58pm
Yes, it screws into the top of the manifold, and you need a lambda socket to get it out with (from a good auto spares shop) that fits on the end of a ratchet and extension. You will need a breaker bar as it is very tight and may come out with the manifold adaptor socket (the larger hex fitting which the o2 sensor is screwed into which is ALSO screwed into the Manifold) still attached to it.
 
To clean the MAF properly you need anti tamper torx socket to undo the 2 screws in the MAF housing and then the MAF pulls out of its hole.
Spray it with  carb cleaner in the end - you will see the little metal supports for the hot film in what looks like a little hood at the end of the MAF. DO NOT use anything silicon based to clean it with and dont poke or prod at it - its very delicate. Make sure it is thoroughly dry before re-connecting it.
Try the MAF cleaning first. Check all vacuum hoses for leaks, then if that doesnt work, then its either going to be a faulty MAF or 02 sensor.
If its done over 100K the o2 sensor should be replaced anyway as they dont generally last longer than this.


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Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:04pm
Here is the MAF out of its housing, the red arrow shows what needs to be sprayed with the cleaner:
 


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Posted By: EVOGT
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:08pm
Steve I do not recommend cleaning the film type maf sensor at all, you should only really clean the wire type with carb cleaner.

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http://www.rossifiles.com/" rel="nofollow - Rossi Number 46


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:13pm
Well in that case, replacement of both the O2 sensor and the MAF would be the solution, although since the other day my car has been performing a lot better and doesnt stall now, and that was after cleaning the MAF thoroughly with glass cleaner spray. I am keeping the new MAF that comes as a standby replacement.
I guess it just took the ECU a while to adapt to the new o2 sensor?


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Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:21pm
The car has done 95K, so it looks like the 02 sensor might be the best option. I noticed that to get it off I'll probably have to cut wires and reconnect.  Recomended? TA


Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:23pm
oh, and i dont have an anti tamper torx socket that fits the MAF housing!!!


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:28pm
Those torx screws are a pain unless you have a torx set.
 
You can buy a lambda socket with a recess in the side to accomodate the wire and remove the lambda without cutting the end off.
 
Although you will find getting hold of a new OE lambda difficult as I ended up buying a universal one anyway and butt-crimping it to the existing plug. You need a 3 wire heated zirconia Lambda sensor, either universal or made to fit the connector.


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Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:34pm
It could also take the ECU a few days to "get used " to the new Lambda sensor, and it may stall a bit while it is learning the new fuel requirements, because it has been running rich dont forget. As the lambda wears out, it reports a lean mixture, so the ECU compensates by increasing the mixture strength until such a point where it cant raise it any more than a prescribed level, then it throws the 0171 mixture lean code - although it is really rich.
When the new sensor is installed, it carries on with this overfuelling and has to learn the correct amount all over again according to the new lambda sensor.
 
If things still dont improve after a week, then you will in all likelihood have to replace the MAF.
These can be found online and DONT go to NISSAN as they will rub their hands together!


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Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:38pm
I had same problem replacing lambda sensor on exhaust system (old one was impossible to remove). got a friend to make new connectors for me and got a universal one from motor factor. Just had a look at your car pictures. Mine is the same model with same unusual gearbox, although i've had mine since new and cost much more than the £675!!!


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2009 at 11:46pm
I love my CVT box, really nice drive - changed the CVT fluid the other day too - that wasnt so nice!
They cost about £18K I think when new, because my Aunt had one on an X plate from brand new and sold it a year before I got mine - thats why I got the CVT because I liked the way hers drove.
It might have only cost £675, but I've had to spend some dosh on it to put right its problems! But I just really like the car, its better than most of the other cars I've had, but I must say, it takes a lot of beating the old Mondeo 1998 Ghia X 2.5 V6 Auto that I used to own. Sadly I got made redundant so the gas guzzling V6 had to go.
 
Put up some pics of your car for us?


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2009 at 1:34am
Our 144 currently has the P0171 error.  I have a spare front O2 (Genuine Bosch part from another 144) and a spare MAFS too.
 
I've interchanged them all but the error keeps coming back.
 
HOWEVER.. the car has huge leak from the front flexi near the rear O2 - so I'm hoping that's what is causing the error.
 
The car idles and revs perfect no issues at all excep the blasted orange light!!


Posted By: TINY
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2009 at 6:04am
Originally posted by Keithyblues Keithyblues wrote:

The car has done 95K, so it looks like the 02 sensor might be the best option. I noticed that to get it off I'll probably have to cut wires and reconnect.  Recomended? TA
Before you go along the route of replaceing the 02 sensor,you need to check the MAF first & formost,the Maf is more likely to be at fault,with this code,so remove the MAF & check if its a wire or a film type( Wire is the one in the pic that Stevie j posted ) if your on a wire you can clean it with carb or electrical contact cleaner,BUT DO NOT POKE ANYTHING IN AT THE WIRE,you will kill it.If its the film type you shouldnt try cleaning it,it will need replacing,but dont go to the stealers£££,try ebay,some are hit & miss "
If still getting problems after replacing/cleaning MAF,then look at the 02 sensor/s,but i would always start with the MAF.Wink


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Bull Dog Mack With a Can on The Back




Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2009 at 10:01pm
Originally posted by S4BY H S4BY H wrote:

Our 144 currently has the P0171 error.  I have a spare front O2 (Genuine Bosch part from another 144) and a spare MAFS too.
 
I've interchanged them all but the error keeps coming back.
 
HOWEVER.. the car has huge leak from the front flexi near the rear O2 - so I'm hoping that's what is causing the error.
 
The car idles and revs perfect no issues at all excep the blasted orange light!!
 
A blowing front pipe will definitely cause an 0171 error, as air will be getting into the frontpipe via the blow and disrupting the oxygen content of the manifold gas.


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Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2009 at 10:06pm
OK folks............An update........Managed to get a torx set from work and got into the MAF housing> Had a look at the sensor and it looks like the wire type that is in Steves picture (Looks kinda like the end of a flat screwdriver) I assume the film type looks totally different. I gave it a spraw with a cleaner, but as everyone says not to touch it I wasnt sure on how to dry it, so just shook off the excess. Reconnected, then started car..............Engine management light still on!!!Maybe wait till morning for sensor to dry or look for lamda sensor and MAF on EBAY


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2009 at 10:14pm

Despite what has been said earlier - both Bosch MAF's fitted to the 144 are film type, I have checked up on this. I cleaned my MAF with a good spraying of Windowlene glass cleaner as well as changing the o2 sensor.

It has taken a few days but the engine is now back to normal.
Following the MAF cleaning and o2 sensor replacement, the engine stalled a bit but ran otherwise OK. The ECU has to re-learn a new fuelling pattern and it takes a little while for it to do this.
 
So I have not actually in the end replaced the MAF, just sprayed it with glass cleaner.
 
You need to reset the ECU error codes and the MIL should go off.
It may come on a bit afterwards, but if it detects that matters are OK aftter several separate drives, it will go out itself.
If its still on in a week or so's time then there is still a problem.
 
To reset, whilst the MIL is flashing the error codes, connect your bridging wire again to the same terminals on the OBD connector plug and wait a few seconds, then disconnect. The MIL will then stay on and not flash.
Turn off ignition and wait 20 seconds or so, then start car and light should be off.


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Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2009 at 10:40pm
OK, will try to reset the error codes tomorrow. I have already looked out the instructions that someone else posted on the site! Hopefully tomorrow will bring good news that lasts...............PS Stevie, I would post photos of my car, but your example looks in much better condition!!! Some little sod ripped of one of the headlight washers a few weeks ago so the front end looks stupid and damaged/ Oh and your right about the cost new price.Thats what I paid in 1999. Also, mine is unusual becasue it was pre registered as a "T" plate. No cool personalised plate for me!


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2009 at 11:06pm
Nonsense about your car not being good enough to post pics of!
Everyone's car is welcome here, no matter what the condition. Its an owners club - the cars come second.
 
I hope the light stays off, but it could well come back on for a while afterwards, so dont be shocked if it does. Clear the code again and see if it keeps coming back. If it does, then go for the O2 sensor, as thats the next cheapest, then the MAF.
Aftermarket Ebay MAFS and ones found online under £100 are all grey imports from the far east of poor quality and usually re-conditioned used parts, I got sent one this week and sent it back with a strongly worded phonecall!
The site advertised them as "new" and I thought what I would get would have been "new" Your best bet if you need a new MAF, is find a supplier who can get you a proper Bosch one other than the dealers.
It should cost you about £160. Nissan charge more than double this.


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Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2009 at 5:11pm
Reset fault codes yesterday and car ran about town fine with no fault light coming on. Came into work this morning and it came back on again!! the last few times it came on it was always on the same road and almost the exact same spot (slightly hilly up and down). Looked at codes again at lunchtime and this time they said "P0171      Fuel System Lean, Bank 1" - Same as before and now has added.."P0325      Knock Sensor, Bank 1"
Going to reset again and see what happens after a week or so. Been looking into the price of MAF's and Lamda sensors. Anyone recomend a reasonable supplier? 


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2009 at 10:58pm
Went up to visit relatives last couple of days, and my MIL is back on again, so I am gonna have to source another MAF supplier as the last one sent me a load of crap, and they got it back as well!
Looks like I might have to get a Bosch one and it had better be new this time. Dont get a MAF from Ignition Car Parts in Essex - they sell cheap quality re-conditioned rubbish from the far East. I am gonna try CES but they are only in the North west, and they can get me a Bosch one for around £160.
The thing is, the car runs fine, just the wretched light keeps coming on with P0171.
I have noticed a slight whistling noise coming from engine dependant on the throttle position and am wondering if the throttle body has an air leak or a gasket is leaking somewhere to make this slight whistling noise. This could well weaken the mixture and I will have to investigate somehow. I know there are no vacuum hoses leaking though.
Does your car do it?


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2009 at 1:01am
I'll be watching this with great interest as our 144 QG18DE is also suffering from P0171..
 
I've tried changing the MAFS and the front O2 but after a few miles the light is back on.
 
The car has a leaking front flexi so it's booked to have the front exhaust section changed on Tuesday - i'm hoping that will cure it..
 
If not.. then it's going to be difficult I think.


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2009 at 4:43pm
Problem with mine is solved - It was the MAF sensor in the end. Whilst the engine seemed to run OK with the MIL on, the MAF was operating out of range and the ECU had adapted to the fault.
I ordered one from CES UK ltd and it cost £167, but it was a genuine Bosch MAF, brand new and OE equipment - these are normally over £350 at the dealers.
It took a little running around to get the self learning ECU to learn the new MAF outputs, especially at full throttle, but now the car runs superbly and no more MIL or 0171 error codes.
It is in your best interests not to order the cheap and nasty Ebay copies or anything under £100, I did this at first, and i was not happy with what I was sent, so I spent £60 more and got the genuine article made by Bosch.
 


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2009 at 8:06pm
Steve, glad to hear you have it sorted.  We got my brothers 144 back from the garage to day and the exhaust is fitted.. no more leaks.
 
I've reset the light and we'll see how it goes.
 
I suspect it will come back on to be honest.
 
I use EasyOBD and can get live streaming data - how can I tell if the MAF is operating out of its normal paramters?  Is there a quick test or something obvious to look out for?
 
There's quite a few sellers on ebay selling MAFS advertising as brand new and not reconditioned... but I'm with you on this one, genuine is the way to go - even if it's second hand.
 
I learnt the hard way last year when my dad was using the car and i changed his front o2 for a cheapo universal jobbie.  It damaged the ECU and there was a permanent error of P0135.  I had to change the ECU and have it recoded for the key..
 
A lot of hassle and out of pocket for about £130 !!
 
Not doing that again.


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2009 at 9:00pm
I dont have any of this fancy OBD tools - I use the wire across the 2 terminals of the OBD port to get the MIL to flash the error codes and to clear the fault codes down - theres a how to in the how to section on here that tells you how.
The MAF was connected up to a multimeter and this was used to measure the output voltage at different RPM's At idle the output should be about 1.3 V At 2000 RPM it should go up to around 1.8-2.0V and then go on increasing as the revs increase up to 4.6 - 5.0 V at over 5000RPM
My old MAF was ok at lower speeds, but would not return a voltage over 3.0 V at 5000RPM, so it was not operating in the prescribed voltage output range and consequently the MIL used to come on at higher engine speeds, and power output at high revs was not as good as it should have been.


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2009 at 10:17pm
That's interesting.  When I reset the MIL today, I looked at the Freeze Frame data and it stated the MIL was activated at around 1600RPM at a speed of 60KPH
 
Do you think that's the MAF too?


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2009 at 10:41pm
I'd wait a while to see if the problem is solved now that you have replaced the frontpipe - A blowing frontpipe definitely causes a 0171 code - it states this in the Primera Techy manual (which you can download from NPOC)
To test the MAF, you need to insert a meter probe into one of the terminals on the MAF connector block from behind while it is still connected - it tells you how to do this in the manual too, and what sort of voltages to expect at different RPMs.
I'd download the Techy manual and you can see for yourself how to test the MAF - it also tells you how to do it using an OBDII reader.
The 0171 is a second trip DTC which means it only lights the MIL if the code is registered on 2 successive driving "trips" - this is to reduce false alarms. So if you reset the MIL and go for a drive, it will not light the MIL if it registers an 0171 code - this is the first trip DTC. When you turn the ignition off for over 20 secs and then start the car again and go for another drive, and it registers 0171 again, this is the second trip DTC and this time the MIL will light up. The freeze frame data is used as you say to pinpoint the conditions which existed when the MIL was illuminated.
 


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2009 at 11:24pm
Steve, I do have the FSM but to be honest didn't read the testing procedure in detail.  I did read the possible causes which include an o2 sensors, MAFS, leaking exhaust, fuel problem or possibly leaking breather pipe..
 
Thanks for the clarification on the second trip DTC, i never knew that actually.
 
As you say, let's see how it goes.
 
Many thanks mate.


Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2009 at 9:56pm
Well the light's back on.
 
Freeze frame says 66MPH at around 3k RPM
 
I've swapped my other MAFS over now..
 
It's my brothers car so will need to wait for him to drive it over the next few days.
 
I really can't see any breather splits or hear any whistling/leaking gaskets.
 
I'll have a go with the multimeter on the weekend.
 
Cheers


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2009 at 10:15pm
It really does sound like the MAF has gone out of range like mine did.
Looks like you are gonna need a new one. If  you do get a new one, it takes up to 50 miles driving at all rev ranges for the ECU to adapt to the new MAF - mine ran dreadful at high revs to start with (shows how badly out the old MAF was) but runs a treat now and no more MIL either.


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 1:02am
Thanks Steve, I'll bear that in mind mate :)


Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 10:44am
MIL light been back on again!!
Done a bit of a cheat and last weekend went to a breakers yard and managed to pick up a genuine bosch MAF from a  V plate Primera. Also managed to get a breather pipe that the AA guy replaced with a fuel hose.
All for the nice price of £5!! . Fitted the "new" MAF last night and reset the MIL light. Car running fine, but hasnt been running at high revs as the MAF settles in. Maybe its because it wasnt new? Will see what happens over the next few days  Confused


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 2:26pm
As said before, you need to give the ECU time to learn the new characteristics of your replacement MAF. It will have adapted its fuelling pattern at higher revs to the old MAF, which was faulty, and as its a self learning ECU, you must floor the car up to 6000 rpm to teach the ECU that the old pattern of fuelling is not working any more due to a correctly working MAF being fitted.
Provided the MAF that you obtained from the scrappies is working OK, your car should return to normal running at all rev ranges within 50 - 100 miles driving.
 
I am also assuming that the MAF you got from the scrappies was from another 2.0 engined car? if it was from a 1.8, the MAFS are slightly different, and may not give you a perfect result.
A 2.0 144 MAF must be swapped with one from another 2.0
Similarly, 1.8 144 MAFS are only really interchangeable with other 1.8 MAFS.
  All OE 144 MAFS are Bosch Hot Film MAFS, and as I have found out - they do not like to be cleaned like the previous P11 MAFS, which were all Hot Wire type. Contrary to popular belief on here - NO 144 models were ever fitted with a wire type MAF, The 2 Nissan codes for early and later 144 Bosch MAFS, refer to the thermistor which was omitted from earlier MAFS and fitted to later ones as a replacement for the seperate thermistor that was fitted into the end of the air inlet pipe of earlier 144's.


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Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 3:06pm
Got me concerned now!!
The MAF sensor I got from the scrappie has all the same reference codes on it as the old one, so I assume (maybe incorectlly) that it is OK. To be honest I didnt check the engine size of the car it came out of, but I don't think it was the 2.0.
I'll give it a good flooring up to 6000 revs tonight on the way home from work on the motorway and see what happens


Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 5:41pm
Keith if the MAF is from a 2.0 then it will have an 'extra' bit attached to it (to the actual sensor inside the housing - you might need to remove from the housing to check) - put it side by side with your original MAF and you'll know straight away if it's right or not.


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 6:45pm
Originally posted by S4BY H S4BY H wrote:

Keith if the MAF is from a 2.0 then it will have an 'extra' bit attached to it (to the actual sensor inside the housing - you might need to remove from the housing to check) - put it side by side with your original MAF and you'll know straight away if it's right or not.
 
The "extra bit" attached the the sensor housing is the inlet air temperature sensor or "thermistor" which I referred to in my previous post.
Earlier MAFS dont have it fitted because Nissan fitted another temperature sensor to the end of the inlet pipe (behind the passenger headlight unit) on 144 Primeras built between June 99 and October 2000. On Later 144's this sensor is ommitted from the end of the inlet pipe, and was relocated to the MAF - hence the "extra bit"  - the thermistor.
When you order a replacement MAF for one that does not have this thermistor fitted, the replacement will have one fitted as it superseded the earlier MAFS.
 
Keith - as long as the Bosch or Nissan Code stamped on your MAF is the same as the one you took off - you will be fine.
The only time you will have a problem is if you have a post October 2000 car and fit a MAF from a scrap yard with code 226807J500 stamped on it. This is the earlier MAF and does not have the internal thermistor. If your car does not have the sensor on the end of the air inlet pipe and you fit the earlier MAF then your car will end up with no inlet air temperature sensor.
 
I've just noticed your car is a 1999 model as mine is. That means that you can use either the early 2.0 MAF (226807J500) or the later 2.0 MAF (post Oct 2000 cars) code 226806N210.
 
If the MAF has the code 226807J600 on it, then it is for a 1.8 Pre Oct 2000 model
If it has code 226805U400 on it, then its for a 1.8 Post Oct 200o Model.
 
It is not recommended to use a 1.8 MAF on a 2.0 or vice versa.


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 7:43pm
Steve, that's extremely helpful info mate - somebody should make that info a sticky as I think it will help a lot of people out.
 
I've told my brother he needs to take his car for a blast on the motorway and give it some welly across the rev range to hopefully get the ECU to adjust to the MAF I swapped over last night as you suggested.
 
I know on our 144 it has the inlet sensor you talk about behind the n/s headlight..
 
If this is faulty, would that cause P0171 do you think?

Any way to test this out?


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2009 at 8:26pm
Originally posted by S4BY H S4BY H wrote:

Steve, that's extremely helpful info mate - somebody should make that info a sticky as I think it will help a lot of people out.
 
I've told my brother he needs to take his car for a blast on the motorway and give it some welly across the rev range to hopefully get the ECU to adjust to the MAF I swapped over last night as you suggested.
 
I know on our 144 it has the inlet sensor you talk about behind the n/s headlight..
 
If this is faulty, would that cause P0171 do you think?

Any way to test this out?
 
It is rare for that sensor to become faulty, but if it does, it will usually report a different error code (P0110). This code will also come up if you put a 226807J500 MAF on a later 144 which does not have a separate sensor on the end of the inlet pipe.
 
There is more info on MAFS and codes etc in the Technical and Electrical section, and in other sections on NPOC, but you need to be a paying member to access these sections.


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:06am
No probs, well the light is back on so I suspect this MAF is worse than the other as it's not even lasted a day...
 


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:10am
Sorry to hear that. If the MAF was good, despite the initial poor performance while the ECU is "getting used" to the new MAF, the MIL should not come back on again.
Sounds like you need to trawl the scrappies again or go for a new MAF.
Have you read the fault code this time? is it still P0171?


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:16am
Steve, I haven't read it tonight but it's only ever been P0171..
 
Can you tell me should the correct MAFS definitely be 226807J600 - i'm just going off your info.
 
The car was originally a W reg so I'm assuming pre Oct 2000
 
Now I did actually replace the MAFS with an item from a Y reg Primera a couple of years but didn't cross check any of the serial numbers..  I shouldn't have done it as the MAFS was never at fault and was actually the front O2 (result of Morrisons fuel problem)
 
I then bought the OBD2 tool and realised it was the O2 and replaced that.  The car was fine for a year or so then the P0171 started...
 
I thought it was the O2 again and bought a universal jobbie, knackered the ECU as a result and had to replace it..
 
Never really fixed the P0171 except I cleaned the MAFS once or twice with carb cleaner and the light stayed off for a few months..
 
The problem is I don't have the original MAFS from the car, only the 2 replacements I'd sourced from scrappies..
 
I can't even remember if I just changed the sensor or the housing too.
 
Looking at the housing, it has 0280 218 005 on it.. and IIRC it has numbers ending in 039 on the MAF sensor itself..
 
Can you tell from those numbers if the MAF I have installed is even the correct version for the car? - assuming it was taken from a Y reg car, would that have something to do with the issues?


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:33am
If yours is a W reg, it will have the temp sensor on the end of the inlet pipe, so you can use a MAF from a later car.
 
What car did you swap the MAf with, was it a 2.0? What car is the Y reg you speak of and whose car has the problems as you make reference to your car and your brothers?
I am getting confused with all the swapping you are doing, and I need you to clarify the situation with both cars.
 
If you have a 1.8 W reg, you need to be using Nissan Part number 226807J600. I dont have the Bosch code, but the Nissan code will be stamped on the MAF outer Tube.
You should also be able to use a MAF from a later 1.8 car of code 226805U400
The 0280 number you quote is the Bosch part number, and it will be stamped on the housing next to the Nissan Part no.
 
144 MAFS should NOT be sprayed with Carb cleaner, as they are Film type MAFS. It is likely that this has damaged them. Only the wire type mafs on earlier P10 and P11's upto June 99 should be cleaned.
I have only found this out recently as I have done a lot of research into these Bosch mafs.


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Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:39am
My X reg 2.0 has a 0280 218 025
It does not have the thermistor.
 
A quick google shows that 0280 218 025 is for the 1.8
 
If you are going to buy a proper one, you will be better off searching for the Bosch part number IMHO.
 
You can find a local dealer on the Bosch website http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/ - http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/  


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:44am
Originally posted by imckay imckay wrote:

My X reg 2.0 has a 0280 218 025
It does not have the thermistor.
 
A quick google shows that 0280 218 025 is for the 1.8
 
If you are going to buy a proper one, you will be better off searching for the Bosch part number IMHO.
 
You can find a local dealer on the Bosch website http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/ - http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/  
 
That Bosch code is the one for the 2.0 - upto Oct 00, Nissan code 226807J500, its the one I just replaced on my car. The replacement is Bosch code 0280218096 as they dont make the other one without the thermistor any more. I have replaced my 0280 218 025 MAF with the 0280 218 096 MAF and that has the thermistor. My car runs absolutely fine now.
 
 


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:46am
Thanks fellas.

Steve apologies for the confusion - there is only one car.  It was initially my dads and then handed down to my brother..  My own car is an Accord.
 
My brothers not interested in the mechanical side of cars hence the reason I'm on here :)
 
The Y reg was a 1.8S at the scrappies.
 
OK so now I'm clear.. looks I've damaged both MAFS by spraying them with carb cleaner doh!!!!


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:53am
You need to contact a MAF supplier :
 
http://www.airmassmeters.com/ - http://www.airmassmeters.com/  for example and tell them you want a MAF for a 1.8 Primera W reg Pre Sept 2000 and give them the Nissan code number for your MAF, they will find out the Bosch code from this and should get one to you quick sharp. Its likely to cost about £170 for a genuine Bosch part, and this is better recommended than a cheaper copy which may not last very long.
Remember, dont get spraying it with anything lol
 
About that previous code with the o2 sensor, I replaced mine with a £36 universal Zirconia 3 wire heated sensor an it works fine. The error code you got P0135 meant that the heater in the O2 sensor wasnt working - it may have been wired wrongly, which is why it blew the ECU.
They usually have 2 white wires for the heater and 1 black wire for the signal, and if you splice the wires to the old loom, you must do it properly and insulate the joints well.


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Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 12:57am
Originally posted by Stevie J Stevie J wrote:

 
That Bosch code is the one for the 2.0 - upto Oct 00, Nissan code 226807J500, its the one I just replaced on my car. The replacement is Bosch code 0280218096 as they dont make the other one without the thermistor any more. I have replaced my 0280 218 025 MAF with the 0280 218 096 MAF and that has the thermistor. My car runs absolutely fine now.
 
 
 
Thanks Stevie. That's useful info.
I am sure I read somewhere that the thermistor on the sensor is ignored if the car has a temp sensor in the intake.


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 1:04am
Originally posted by imckay imckay wrote:

Originally posted by Stevie J Stevie J wrote:

 
That Bosch code is the one for the 2.0 - upto Oct 00, Nissan code 226807J500, its the one I just replaced on my car. The replacement is Bosch code 0280218096 as they dont make the other one without the thermistor any more. I have replaced my 0280 218 025 MAF with the 0280 218 096 MAF and that has the thermistor. My car runs absolutely fine now.
 
 
 
Thanks Stevie. That's useful info.
I am sure I read somewhere that the thermistor on the sensor is ignored if the car has a temp sensor in the intake.
 
It is ignored - the MAF plug on the Pre Oct 2000  models only has 4 wires  but 5 connections - the fifth connection is redundant. On post Oct 2000 models , the plug has 5 wires - the fifth wire links to the terminal on the MAF that leads to the thermistor. So, on models which have a temp sensor built into the inlet pipe, the thermistor on the later MAF is ignored, as there is no wire in the plug from the wiring loom that goes to it.


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Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 1:08am
God blimey this is hard work - can I have a break now lol LOL

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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 1:19am
Mate you sure know your stuff, and I owe you one.
 
I definitely wired the O2 correctly and was careful to source a Zirconia one..  but it definitely damaged the ECU as when I replaced the sensor with the original genuine error I couldn't get rid of the error (and I have two working Bosch original O2 sensors, one as a spare)
 
I took the vehicle to a trusted auto electrician and gave him the FSM.. he traced the wiring and found the fault lay with the ECU.
 
Basically you could clear the error and drive the vehicle for a 100 miles.. but as soon as you switched the engine off and restarted, the error was back.
 
A new ECU (I think it's an MEC-10 from memory) from another Primera - recoded for the immobiliser, sorted the problem out..
 
But the blasted P0171 is doing my nut in.  It's not my car, but I hate being beaten :P


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 1:27am

You'd better get your bro to stump up the cash for a new MAf then, unless he wants to keep trying used MAFS from the scrappies, or chance his luck with a cheapo far eastern copy from off Ebay?

I'm assuming the replacement ECU came off a Pre Oct 2000 Primera 1.8?
 
I dont like being beaten either, nor do I like Greedy Nissan dealers and paying them £70 to read an error code and charge me for stuff I dont need Angry. This is why I, and other members of NPOC are committed to helping other Primera owners try to do the same, and save them a lot of money. We like our Prims and want them on the road as long as possible, and if the dealers had their way, old Prims would be on the scrap heap by now cos no-one could afford new parts for them Wacko


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 2:18am
^^^ Yep..  it's sad really the way Nissan are so disconnected from their customers.
 
I'm actually a moderator on the Honda Accord forums and although we see some similar behaviour from some unscrupulous Honda dealers - Honda GB are quick to stamp it out and even take certain dealers out of the network - Honda SB Wakefield to be the most recent one.
 
We've got a fantastic relationship with Holdcroft Honda in Stoke and they offer us trade prices on genuine parts, and even let us have a club meet their last weekend - gave up their entire workshop and staff for the whole day inspecting members cars etc.
 
I guess there's good and bad in every walk of life.
 
Bed time I think - thanks again Steve.
 
Regards

Fahad.


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 2:29am
Its a pity Holdcroft Nissan in Stoke cant be as obliging, thats who I have to use to get parts. Polite enough, but boy do they take the piss with their prices! They've never heard of NPOC as it was one of the first things I asked shortly after joining NPOC - if they did discounts for Primera Owners Club members.
 
Holdcroft Honda must be part of the same group?


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Posted By: essNchill
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 3:07am
Ed, take it elsewhere please fella or go to bedThumbs%20Up
 
PM me when you've chilled out and I'll sort your forum account.. Until then, refer to my opening line.


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 5:10pm
Am I missing something here?  Sorry if I've tread on any toes.
 
Not sure how HH fit into the wider Holdcroft group, but you'd expect them to be one and the same.


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 5:38pm
Dont worry, some drunken member called Ed came on posting nonsense so essNchill had to delete his posts and send him off to bed LOL

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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2009 at 6:07pm
LOL I did sit there and read through the whole thread again scratchin my head Wacko


Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 2:11pm
So quick update on this, I found someone breaking a 2001 Y reg Primera 1.8 (90k miles) so bought quite a few bits off him - some that I needed for the 144 and some I just thought it would be good to keep for spares as he was selling things cheap:
 
MAFS
Front O2
Rear O2
4 x Coils
Rocker Cover (although it's not perfect)
Wiper Arms
Wiper Pivot
Bonnet Cable complete with handle
Few bits of trim our car needed..
 
I really want to keep our 144 on the road as it's been a brilliant car and apart from the stilly MIL errors we're getting, it's never missed a beat.
 
Now upon inspection, the MAFS has the thermosister which our original didn't have.  However, according to Stevie J, this should be ok in our early 144?  I've plugged it in and told my brother to just go off and drive it.  I'll reset the light later.
 
The other question I have is that the coil pack I've received has coils that are thinner than the existing ones.  They're more like pencil coils.  I can't see Nissan stamped on them either..
 
Does anyone know if these will be OEM coils or cheap aftermarket jobbies?
 
I was thinking of swapping the coils over as our car has covered a lot more mileage than the donor car..  again, worth doing if there are no issues obvious at the moment?
 
Same goes for the O2's, is it worth swapping them over or should I wait for something to go wrong?
 
Apologies if these are daft questionsEmbarrassed


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 2:49pm
Sounds like you've done the right thing, by raiding the 144 in the scrappies for parts. The MAF you have used will be fine, as long as it is not knackered as well, thats the chance you take with second hand stuff.
 
I'd keep your spares in storage and use them when and if necessary. Its up to you really if you want to change them over, but if they have done 90K miles, then there's not gonna be much life left in them. O2 sensors usually do about 100K before needing replacement and the wiper pivots usually need changing around this mileage, I know they were changed on my car at about 100K.
As regards the coil packs - they are 2 a penny on Ebay and I'd imagine they may be aftermarket parts, as they are a very common failure point on the 1.8 engine. If your existing coil packs work - leave them alone till they fail. You will get an error code specific to the coil thats failing anyway when they go, so save your salvaged parts until needed.
 
If the Maf is any good, the MIL should go out itself after a few drives. But the performance will probably be crap for a 100 miles or so while the ECU learns the new MAF's characteristics. If its no good, the MIL will stay on and the 0171 code will not go away.
 
Best of luck


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Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 2:54pm
By the way - since I renewed my MAF, the MIL (P0171) has not returned and the engine is running fine. It took about 100 miles of varied driving at all rev ranges before full performance was returned.

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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 4:38pm
Stevie - many thanks mate, i'll follow that advice.
 


Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 11:19pm
Woohoo some good news :D
 
So I didn't reset the light.. he drove around all day and on his way home tonight.. the MIL went off on it's own :D
 
First time that's happened.  I'm confident the issue is hopefully fixed :)
 
Many thanks Stevie J Thumbs%20Up


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 11:35pm
Jolly good - the ECU will test the fault on 3 consecutive driving sessions, and if the 3 sessions are 0171 free, then it will switch off the MIL, but retain the fault code in the longer term memory. Looks like you cracked it then. Keep an eye on the MIL for a week or so, but I'd say if its gone off of its own accord, then the MAF from the scrappies is working!
 
Well done Big%20smile
 
PS - Dont get spraying this MAF with anything - Its not worth the risk, and replace the air filter element too, to give the MAF the best chance of staying clean.


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 11:56pm
Yep interestingly I looked at the MAF and you could see some carbon deposits on it.. i was really tempted to spray it but then thought hang on that's probably what's destroyed your other two MAFS!!
 
Yeah I think it's done the trick too mate.. well fingers crossed anyway.
 
I'm now tempted to swap the O2 sensors too Big%20smile


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2009 at 12:02am
I'd personally leave them alone - if the MIL is off, then they are fine.
02 sensors have their own fault codes when they go wrong, the rear one will normally bring up a range between P0137 and P0141 or  P0420 - 2 way catalyst error, and the front may bring up 0171, or a range between P0130 and P0135 if faulty. The front sensor has symptoms of bad driveability and surging / hesitating on the throttle if its faulty. the rear sensor will not have any effect except light the MIL - its only there to monitor Pre-cat efficiency, thats why it can bring up P0420 if its not working 100%.
Keep your spare 02 sensors as spares is what I'd advise.


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Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2009 at 12:23am
Yeah you're probably right.  I've had the P0131 previously (or it might have been P0132) a couple of years back when the Morrisons fuel contamination happened...  I changed the o2 sensor then.
 
Thanks again mate.


Posted By: S4BY H
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2009 at 1:14am
Quick update, fitted some of the parts to my brother 144 today..
 
Fitted the bonnet cable - nice easy job on the 144.
 
Fitted some missing trim and also the spare parcel shelf peg - not sure if everyone knows but if your parcel shelf peg breaks, you don't need to replace the whole shelf - the peg's are actually held into a metal barrel running under the shelf.. You can just take one from the scrappers.
 
And also, fitted the coils - I know there was nothing wrong with the old ones but as I had them.. I thought 'what the hell'.
 
Interestingly, the car seems more lively so although there were no errors being picked up on the old ones, I do think they have a limited life and it's worth changing them after 100k or more.
 
Also started on the wiper linkage but it got dark so saving that job for tomorrow (today?).. also need to sort the rear o/s door lock which is sticking!!
 
What a good big brother I am :)


Posted By: Keithyblues
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2009 at 1:59pm
Well its been nearly 4 weeks since I fitted the "new" MAF sensor and the engine management light has never came back on again.
Looks like that was the problem!! Smile


Posted By: garyh
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2009 at 3:51pm
Been following this thread with interest.
 
I had the same fault code (P0171) which appeared a month or so ago. I read the code and cleared it without doing anything.
 
About 2 weeks ago the light came on again, same code. This time i didn't clear it, but the light went out itself after a day or so. The same thing happened last week, and again the light went out itself after a couple of hours
 
From reading the post, could this be an intermittent fault with the MAF or O2 sensor? Is that possible?
 
I've never seen a management light go out itself before without doing anything.
 
thanks
 
 


Posted By: FluX
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2009 at 4:57pm
I'm not saying its definite, but I'd put money on a dirty MAF. I've had 3 P10's which were no problem, and now got 2 P11-144's which both had same problem - dirty MAF.
Now both of them are fine after very careful cleaning of the MAF.

The MIL should go out after a couple of drives if the fuel/ air ratio falls back into spec


Posted By: garyh
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2009 at 10:46pm
Originally posted by FluX FluX wrote:

I'm not saying its definite, but I'd put money on a dirty MAF. I've had 3 P10's which were no problem, and now got 2 P11-144's which both had same problem - dirty MAF.
Now both of them are fine after very careful cleaning of the MAF.

The MIL should go out after a couple of drives if the fuel/ air ratio falls back into spec
 
Thanks
 
After reading this and other threads, i assumed it would be turn out to be the MAF. Think i'll leave it for a few weeks and see if light comes back on again.
 
Can you clean the film type MAF's on P11-144's? I always thought it had to be replaced?
 
 


Posted By: krazylegz
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2009 at 11:48pm
99% of people on here would say you have to replace the foil type MAF's however flux says hes successfully cleaned two using fluxclene and a fine artists tooth brush, i've got two none working MAFS so i'm going to attempt to clen mine when i get home on the weekend of the 25th


Posted By: FluX
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2009 at 9:13am
Originally posted by krazylegz krazylegz wrote:

99% of people on here would say you have to replace the foil type MAF's however flux says hes successfully cleaned two using fluxclene and a fine artists tooth brush, i've got two none working MAFS so i'm going to attempt to clen mine when i get home on the weekend of the 25th


toothbrush?? Shocked I'm sure you meant paintbrush didn't you Krazy?Big%20smile


Posted By: FluX
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2009 at 9:26am
and yeah I have cleaned two MAF's and both are working to what I would say is "100%" or as near as.

BUT...

I only recommend doing this if, like me, or Krazylegs, you have a spare. I took one apart last year so I knew how delicate the element was.



Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2009 at 5:59pm
Hi,
i have  p11 144 1.8 Pimera.
i too have the P0171 code,
popped it into nissan today and the consult and the guy said ah oxygen sensor,
possibly the one before the cat,
asked how much and he recomended changing both to be safe,
then they hit me with a price of £160 each plus vat Cry
 
Popped into local motor factors and they said yup can get them
this is when it got interesting,
they said theres only one listed on your car, i said no there are two sensors,
they were certain there is only one, so i got under the car and said there 1 and theres the other in the exhaust pipe that goes under the sump,
he said no probs they must be the same sensor,
so later today i had another look, the pre cat sensor is a 3 wire and the one after the cat is a 4 wire sensor,
is this correct?
if so wheres the best place to get replacement sensors,
are they bosch sensors? if so any opne got the bosch numbers off the 2 sensors please.


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2009 at 6:21pm

99% chance if you havent changed the MAF, it'll be that thats going down.

Try the local breakers for another MAF, but you can get them online for much less than Nissan.
There are loads of threads on the 0171 code - do a search and you will see that it is the MAF every time.
Replacing the O2 sensors will be a waste of money and Nissan would do this, charge you for it, then tell you - oh, it must be the MAF thats at fault then!


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Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2009 at 7:06pm
If you do need a new MAF, try your local Bosch dealer.
They sell proper Bosch exchange MAFs for around £50.
 
http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/bdl/loc_search.asp?strLocator=Product - http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/bdl/loc_search.asp?strLocator=Product


Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2009 at 8:50pm
cheeers guys,
have bought the pre cat sensor now though :(
will enquire about the MAF this week,
local motor factors are a bosch agent so will give them the part numbers off the MAF.


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: Arimus
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2009 at 10:22pm
My local mf don't do the exchange ones - the ones they do are £80 ex vat, they also wanted a £25 surcharge off me as I'm not a trade customer. You can guess my response.

Took my MAF out of its housing and gave it a good spraying with contact cleaner and since putting it back together its behaved itself... :)


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Users are like a virus: Each causing a thousand tiny crises until the host final dies.


Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2009 at 4:53pm
called are motor factors who are a bosch agent,
they quoted £92.57 + vat for a fuelparts replacement maf
or £153.64 + vat for the bosch replacement maf,
 


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2009 at 7:10pm
Andrew Page sell them but are in the North.
Maybe try and phone some other Bosch dealers or Bosch themselves to find out who sells the exchange ones.


Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2009 at 7:42pm

Have contacted a few others and all round same price down here,

But have picked up a fuel parts maf for my primera for £60 with trade discount,
and its got a warranty so if it works sorted if not it can go back :-)


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2009 at 8:34pm
the Maf arrived today,
opened the box and it was a bosch exchange unit, Clap
fitted it and what a difference it has made already,
have not bothered fitting the pre cat sensor have put that on the shelf in the garage for now,
will see what happens in the coming week regarding any malfunc light coming on,
 
Cheers again guys right as all ways Wink


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: razzie50
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2009 at 8:49pm
I'm a bit confused after reading all of this thread. Our 1.8 P11-144 has been running lumpy, hesitant acceleration and a bouncing rev counter needle. Reading other threads I thought it was either the TPS or the MAF. We've adjusted the TPS which has made a big difference but still not 100%.

We've had the MIL come on once then go out the next trip. Not been on since. I hadn't bothered to check the code once the light went out as I assumed (wrongly?) that the code would be gone.

So, not sure if we have a MAF issue or not. And if we do, can I clean it or not? I have electrical contact cleaner ready to do it once I get the torx socket to get the blooin screws off! Some people have said to clean it, Stevie J says don't do it?


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2009 at 9:31pm
Stevie J wouldnt advise it, as its a film type MAF on the 144, which are easily damaged. I tried cleaning mine, but made no difference. I think these mafs suffer from internal faults in the circuitry eventually so its better just to replace them. 10 years or 100K they seem to go after.
The MAF is secured in its housing by anti tamper screws, so that you cant start spraying it or poking around with it, due to the fact that the sensor is fragile.


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Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2009 at 9:33pm
is your rev counter doing this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THqAqNMQk0A - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THqAqNMQk0A
if so you maybe looking at a timing chain replacement,
others on here will be able to help you more im just going by past advice and personal experience,
how many miles has the car done?


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: Stevie J
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2009 at 9:38pm
Timing chain replacement? thats gonna be eyewateringly expensive!
You need to hope you dont need a new chain, or it'll set you back several hundred quid!


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Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2009 at 10:03pm
Originally posted by Stevie J Stevie J wrote:

Timing chain replacement? thats gonna be eyewateringly expensive!
You need to hope you dont need a new chain, or it'll set you back several hundred quid!
tell me about it,
nissan quoted me £760 Dead
managed to get a timing chain set for a non varible timing motor (crank and cam gears(non varible timing gears), timing chain guides and tensioner), for £186 and did the work myself,
every thing was replaced except the varible timing gear,
had no probs ever since.


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: razzie50
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2009 at 9:43am
Hi, Yes that video is what it is doing, though not as badly and it has certainly improved since we adjusted the TPS
Please don't let it be the timing chain, I can't afford it Dead


Posted By: razzie50
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2009 at 9:44am
Oh, and the car has done 114,000 miles


Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2009 at 5:07pm
that vid was of my rev counter april this year,
that problem started in december last year (08) with the odd twitch now and then,
then leading up to April this year thats how bad it got, before we changed the chain etc. after changing the chain etc it then disappeared,
Im not saying yours is the same but 90% of the guys i spoke to on here said yup timing chain stretch,
I now listen to what  they say on here and do it straight away,
like this post on fault codes i ordered the pre cat o2 sensor and they said on here no point its the Maf,
so ordered that too, changed Maf and all is fine, o2 sensor is now on the shelf in the garage LOL
 
maybe one of the guys could advise you a bit further,


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2009 at 5:08pm
Oh and my car had done 118,000 miles when we finally gave in and changed the timing chain,

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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE


Posted By: razzie50
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2009 at 8:26pm
I popped in to my local Nissan dealership today to see if they would check my windscreen wipers and tell me what part I needed to replace. One of the mechanics came out to my car and we had a chat about the engine too. He said unless the timing chain is rattling they wouldn't say to replace it (and the price of £650+ too...) and he agrees that it's probably the MAF. won't hurt to buy a Bosch one and try it I guess. 


Posted By: tony_primera_se
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2009 at 8:33pm
Originally posted by razzie50 razzie50 wrote:

I popped in to my local Nissan dealership today to see if they would check my windscreen wipers and tell me what part I needed to replace. One of the mechanics came out to my car and we had a chat about the engine too. He said unless the timing chain is rattling they wouldn't say to replace it (and the price of £650+ too...) and he agrees that it's probably the MAF. won't hurt to buy a Bosch one and try it I guess. 
 
said exactly the same thing to me,
and mine was not rattling either LOL
 
keep us posted on what happens with the new MAF fitted.


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Stock P11-144 1.8 16V SE



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