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Nissan P12 2005 2.2 DCi - Desperate for help!!!!

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Printed Date: 28 Mar 2024 at 11:23pm


Topic: Nissan P12 2005 2.2 DCi - Desperate for help!!!!
Posted By: CJD
Subject: Nissan P12 2005 2.2 DCi - Desperate for help!!!!
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 6:26pm

Hi all,

New to these forums and desperate for help. It’s been a long 2 year saga that just gets worse. Today’s been a really bad one. Please if anybody can help I’d really appreciate it.

Bought a Nissan Primera 2.2 DCi SVE 2005 model from new – fantastic car and really pleased with what you get for your money. Problems started the moment the first 3 year warrantee ran out!!

I've written a lot of detail in the hope it saves time and gets to the point, sorry if it takes some reading!...


Took the car in for a service at 3 yr old and when I got her home and started the engine next day the idle was erratic (bouncy) for the first minute or so. Also when I put my foot down on the motorway and hit the 3500 rpm mark I seemed to lose power. It was as thought the throttle did not do anything more and the car stayed at constant speed until I lifted my foot off and put it back down again, then she’d carry on accelerating.

Took it back to the garage who said they could not find a fault but sounds like fuel pump! This put me off going back to the dealers. How can they suggest replacing the most expensive part with so little investigation – sounded like they were trying to rip me off!

One year on, the erratic idle got worse, dropping down to almost stall speed and bouncing back up to 1000rpm. I started putting the air con on just to keep the revs up – never stalled though and always started first time. The power loss on the motorway went from random to consistent, still lift foot off the accelerator and put it back down, power back again.

 

Problems have worsened, so now I have erratic idle, warm or cold engine. When warm the engine speed drops so low it cuts out, restart, engine cuts – takes a few goes to get it to stay lit! Also when I start the engine the dials all sit on zero with a bit of twitching. Takes 5-10 seconds for them all to come to life. She also drinks diesel now, never seem to get more than 40 mpg on a motorway run.

Today’s been really bad – cold start and the idle drops off and stalls. Even once the engine is warmed!!

I’m convinced its electrical and I’ve tried the following…

  • Replaced the Mass Airflow sensor – no difference
  • Unplugged temperature sensor – fans kick in, no difference
  • Cleaned as many connectors as I can find – no difference
  • Reset everything (battery off) idle stays constant on first switch on for about 5 secs and then returns to bouncing!

 

I now have the glove box off to check ECM connectors and I’m searching the web for help!

Please guys help me out

Chris




Replies:
Posted By: Primera Dave
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 6:29pm
That odd sound like maf was the repkacement maf new?

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Golf mk4 gti turbo. 3'' downpipe and de-cat, 2.75'' Jetex cat back, k&n induction kit and custom heat shield, 3'' intake, forge 007p dv, stage 1 190 Bhp map,Koni uprated shocks and h&r springs + more


Posted By: CJD
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 6:35pm
Yep, the MAF was brand new but made no difference


Posted By: Skinny_60
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 7:36pm
I've had a similar problem in that when the engine is cold or warm on start up, it doesn't idle nicely. It bounces around between 1000 rpm and 500 (ish) rpm. I usually stick the air con on to pick the revs up, or just drive, but it is a bit twitchy for the first few minutes. It's not as bad when the engine is warm but is still there slightly. Im not in the position to replace any parts at the moment though, i've just had to go halves and pay out for a new turbo and intercooler, d'oh!

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Drive it like you stole it!


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 7:54pm
The DCi has two Mafs one on the air filter and the other on the exhaust.
I would check the earth straps  from the battery to the engine and chassis, make a thorough examination and make sure the are secure and a good connection.
most likely is the suction control valve on the fuel pump, if t you do not get the dealer to do this you will have to get them to reset the system for pump learning.


Posted By: CJD
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 8:44pm
Thanks for the input 'timeshock' is it an expensive job to replace the suction control valve?

Skinny_60 - mine started like yours, it gets worse over time!!!

Just to add, i've finished disconnecting everything behind the glove box and spray cheaning all the connectors. Put everything back together and re-connected the battery and - JACKPOT!! the tick over was rock solid. Right up until i pressed the accelorator and raised the revs, then streight back to square one.

Does this still fit with your thoughts 'timeshock!'



Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2010 at 6:26pm
Answering your 1st point above, it in my opinion is not cheap £250-£300, for an SVC but a fraction of a new pump.
 
Not sure what you have sprayed put back together..but you will have certainly done no harm and it does seem to have given a better conductivity, which still leaves a bad earth as a definite possibility, start with the cheap and simple. If the earths and battery are fine then look at fuel and air which is pump and MAF not in the correct order.


Posted By: renrut
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2010 at 9:35am
As Time says - check the main earth strap to the gearbox - its known for breaking on the Dci however it would normally appear mostly as hard starting in cold weather. Also check the rear light clusters, again unlikely to be the culprit here but its quick and easy to check.

As Time says the major suspect is the SCV on the fuel pump - I had the erratic idle on mine and it started stalling and being a problem - it will only get worse. Just resetting the pump will be a temporary fix but you'll be back to square one after a short while if you don't get the valve replaced. Its a small price relatively speaking and other than turbos and earth straps the only thing to go wrong on the P12.


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Now enjoying wafty effortless power.


Posted By: CJD
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2010 at 6:06pm
Thanks for the input Gents. I have a news update...

Spent all day Sunday taking the EGR to bits and cleaning it up. This did not fix the problem although I was very impressed with the amount of crap there was in there!

Gave up, bit the bullet and went to the dealers. The diagnostic showed no errors but the mechanic suggested the Suction Control valve which fits with ‘timeshock’s’ diagnosis. He did confirm that temp sensors etc were all reading fine.

He’s quoted £350 ish for SCV but if this does not fix the problem is looking to pump refurb at £1,250+.

Being Christmas, I’m now flat broke and don’t think my daughter would appreciate a SCV off Santa – She’s only 5!!!

So, the plan is to spend the weekend replacing the SCV (and yes I will need to take it back to the garage and pay £50 for pump re-learning / Reset). I do however have a few questions…

  • Can the SCV be fixed – I’m guessing that its probably a rubber seal gone or something which makes me think it may be serviceable. If not, does anybody know where I can get one from? Don’t want to pay main dealer prices if I can avoid it.
  • How do I take out the SCV? The mechanic say’s its an easy job which I should be able to do once the wiper tray is removed to gain access. I have the P12 workshop manual of the net 4,000+ pages and nothing on the SCV. I would really appreciate a guide as to how to get to this – pictures if there are any!?!
  • Is there any way I can do the pump reset myself or is this definitely a dealer job?

My suspicion is that it can’t possibly be the fuel pump itself as I get full power on the motorway and my logic suggests I should not get the fuel pressure for this if the pump itself was faulty.

 

Final question – what the hell does the SCV actually do!!!!!! And how could this create the problem.

 

Would appreciate the help and looking at the number of forums that only seem to skate over this issue, is sounds like there are many people out there with this problem that would also appreciate the questions above being answered.

 

Chris




Posted By: Janner
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2010 at 6:27pm
wow, darned modern cars eh,

welcome to npoc Big smile

well im praying for you mate, hope you get it sorted soon!

all the best

Keith


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Posted By: renrut
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2010 at 8:23am
Right first things first - SCV what is it?

The SCV is part of the fuel pump - it controls how much fuel is sent to the fuel rail and how much is recirculated. The fuel pump itself always pumps the same amount of fuel dependant on revs and nothing more. Its the SCV that determines how much goes to the fuel rail and thus the fuel rail pressure allowing the high efficiency and burn that makes the diesels powerful and efficient.

When this starts to malfunction it will be struggling to control the pressure. I don't know the exact failure mechanism but I suspect its not quite a simple seal. When they fail you might still get full fuel flow but it might be over pressuring at other points and freaking out the ECU. The ECU will then cut injectors etc to avoid damaging the engine and go into Limp mode.

Bear in mind the VERY HIGH pressures these things run at it is very very dangerous to tinker with them if you don't know what you're doing. To take it out you'll first need to bleed off the fuel rail pressure, then its simply a matter of unbolting it and bolting a new one on from what I can gather. Its not in the service manual as it wasn't regarded as a servicable part, only the whole fuel pump is which at north of £500 and another £400 fitting is a scary number.

I don't know of any pattern parts sources for the SCV and tbh you won't find any in breakers unless you're very very lucky as its probably the most common failure on the diesels, and even then it will likely not last as long as a new part. Ask nissan how much just the new part is. Their labour rates were typically £80ph inc VAT but I don't know if they're still that.

In terms of the fuel pump reset yes you'll need to get nissan to do this, it needs to be hooked up to the special nissan diagnostics gadget to do it. Unless you know someone with a Consult 2 of course.

Hope that answers your questions.


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Now enjoying wafty effortless power.


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2010 at 11:16am
Well done Renrut. Just to reiterate the fuel pressure it is typcal 65 Kpa which if my conversion is correct 650 bar. When I had a priming pump failure i was told the mechie had to go home as he was covered head to toe in diesel, engine bay was nice and clean thoughLOL


Posted By: CJD
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 12:32pm

Well, thanks everybody for your help – PROBLEM NOW SOLVED

 

I went into Nissan and they plugged the computer in with no faults found! The mechanic told me that this narrows things down to the fuel as any faulty sensors would have registered and suggested two possibilities..

 

  1. Suction Control Valve - £350ish to replace and would require a pump reset
  2. Full pump overhaul - £1200 to take the pump off and send it for re-furb.

 

Could not get my head around the pump being faulty as I get full pressure on the motorway, its only at tick over the problem.

 

So rang around and got a SCV from Darwen Diesels for £111+VAT, fitted it myself which was a very easy job once you’ve got the wipers off and JACKPOT, the tick over was rock solid straight away.

 

2 years of bouncy idle and finally solved!!

 

Thanks for all your help. I only have one more question..

 

Do I have to have the pump reset? It seems to be working so well now I can’t understand what paying £60 for the garage to reset the pump will do for me? Is it a fuel economy issue or something else.

 

Thanks again for all your help.

 

Chris



Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 4:30pm
surprised it has not gone in to limp mode as others have done, wait and see if you have problems, excessive smoke or poor mpg.


Posted By: leo24
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 11:00pm
I have a similar problem...

I did get an issue an ECU warning for the fuel pump about 2 months ago after a yearly service on the 2005 primera dci.
I had the nissan dealer relearn the Fuel pump, after which no issues till yesterday, when the car cut off all of a sudden at a round about.
since then there has been no junction or roundabout where the car has not cut out
it runs fine on the motorway though

NPOC gurus on other threads seem to suggest that it might be a MAF gone bad
disconnected the MAF cable but still had the problem
not sure if just disconnecting the MAF was the right test

looking at cleaning the MAF now

but since i have had a fuel pump error before, started to suspect that this could be the SCV

would anyone be able to post how you go abt replacing SCV?

thanks


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 9:19am
Hello all
 
I have Nissan Primera P12 2.2 dci sve end of 2003 reg
I have the same problem about power loss
I went to the garage the other day they charged me about £500
they changed Fuel pump, svc, changed oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter.
So problem NOT solved !!!!!
Problem was power loss:
When i start the engine, car seems to be ok and goes with no problem, few minutes after or when i stand near traffic lights, engine loose power!!!!
Garage checked all the sensor they could find and even MAF they checked, they tooked onother one maf from perfectly running car and puted that maf, do you know how many of those maf is there in that car?
Garage said me to go to nissan dealer and ask for diagnostics, to find all the problems it has
Also there is engine light on
Garage said I can still drive that car until it stops LOL
What to do?


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 10:58am
If you have not had this work done by Nissan, and it sounds that the garage you went to does not have the corect equipment, Nissan have to do a pump reset after the new one has been fitted. Try that an let us know how you get on.
 
Welcome to the forum by the wayThumbs Up


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 12:05pm
Thank you for reply me, i will arange to go to
nissan to reset the pump, i will let
you know about results asap


Posted By: Sufi
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 5:34pm
Sounds exactly the same as my problem.


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 7:00pm
But why do i need to reset the pump?
Because pump works same as old one
And i think there is nothing wrong with it
I think it's more electrical problem, like sensor...


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 7:05pm
It is something called 'Pump Learning' it requires a Nissan reset


Posted By: Sufi
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 12:52am
Originally posted by timeshock! timeshock! wrote:

It is something called 'Pump Learning' it requires a Nissan reset


Can any garage do this? or only Nissan mate.


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 10:46am
if they have the diagnostic equipment and know what they are doing then yes. i should add that the majority of people on here that have fitted a new pump/svc have had to have the pump reset done. Only one person on here who fitted an SVC themselves (might have been Grim) did not have it done and it went all right from the start but that is not the experience of the majority


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 1:33pm

I spoke with nissan today, and they advised me first do diagnostic for the car, because reseting the pump is £90, and diagnostic price i'm still waiting to hear from them, which will be cheaper, what do you think about wich one first to do?



Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 1:44pm

And pump reset is it same as they do full computer reset? or that is do diferent things?



Posted By: edk_N16
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 4:21pm
This may or may not be useful, but this is a link to the Navara forums and their How To Reset the ECU and Pump guide. Now I know that the ECU pin outs are the same on our (The N16 and P12) cars, so this reset might be worth a go. I've not needed to try it yet but I can't see it doing any harm if it's not the right procedure anyway.

Worth a try - http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5786 - http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5786


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Posted By: Sufi
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 4:40pm
Originally posted by edk_N16 edk_N16 wrote:

This may or may not be useful, but this is a link to the Navara forums and their How To Reset the ECU and Pump guide. Now I know that the ECU pin outs are the same on our (The N16 and P12) cars, so this reset might be worth a go. I've not needed to try it yet but I can't see it doing any harm if it's not the right procedure anyway.

Worth a try - http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5786 - http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5786


has anyone actually tried this on a P12 Confused


Posted By: edk_N16
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 4:51pm
As I say I have no idea if it will work or not but it can't hurt to try? I mean if the ECUs appear identical then it's likely the procedures are the same.

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Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 5:14pm
I tried this on my p12 :"This may or may not be useful, but this is a link to the Navara forums and their How To Reset the ECU and Pump guide. Now I know that the ECU pin outs are the same on our (The N16 and P12) cars, so this reset might be worth a go. I've not needed to try it yet but I can't see it doing any harm if it's not the right procedure anyway. "
Eml gone, seems ok, let's see on the road, i will post the results about 18.00
I hope it works, because everything went ok by the instructions i found on nissan navara forum, eml was flashing, but i did not saw any codes i have to find out this one
Thank you all very much for your help !Wink


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 5:16pm
ho to figure out any possible faults with your Nav  when you do pump reset and when eml is flashing, does anybody knows?


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 6:06pm

YES YES YES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finally problem solved !!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks you all of you  for your help

I did pump reset from nissan navara page


It worked like never before, i hope this will last long

I was sitting in traffic just now and i was holding my foot on brakes

no power loose at all




Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 6:09pm

That was how i reseted

Thank you nissan_navara.net !!!!

""Thanks to Boohoo for reading through the workshop manual, resetting ECU and FUEL pump MAY help in cutting down on that horrible tapping noise that the D40 suffers from.
Ive carryed out this reset and the engine is alot smoother, more responsive, less smokey and alot less tappy.

To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!!""""



Posted By: Sufi
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 8:02pm
Originally posted by rsxxx69 rsxxx69 wrote:

YES YES YES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finally problem solved !!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks you all of you  for your help

I did pump reset from nissan navara page


It worked like never before, i hope this will last long

I was sitting in traffic just now and i was holding my foot on brakes

no power loose at all




Same Matey! done mine about 2hours ago! still running sweet as a nut! nice one!


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 8:08pm
Well I think this is the most exciting thing I have read on here since the fault and fix was identified with the P12 display.
Please keep us up to date on your successThumbs Up
I wonder how many SVC's nissan have been doing if a reset was only needed


Posted By: edk_N16
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 8:27pm
Excellent, very pleased that seems to have worked for you .

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Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 8:31pm
Good find EdClap


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 8:34pm
Well if this does turn out to be successful where the SVC is suspect it will need posting in the how to section. prolly with some acknowledgement of where it came from.


Posted By: edk_N16
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 8:59pm
I feel a bit bad for having sat on that golden nugget for a while now (been subscribed to that topic on navara forums for a while), but to be honest this was the first time it seemed very relevant. 

Agreed re the hot to and acknowledging Nissan Navara.net


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Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:13pm

So what do you think about that: i allready paid garage to change for my p12  svc/fuel pump? don't you think that was very wrong? And now I have my old pump in my room, so maybe it is still working? Maybe it was a bit crazy to spend £500 on that, and what I should do with my old pump? any advice?

And again thanks for everybody's help, 

Special thanks for user "edk_N16", how you get that information?

I think all off p12 with the same symptoms they are just computer glitch or .....

But still need to do a bit of mileage to make sure it's not comming back



Posted By: edk_N16
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:18pm
I've been a member on nissan-navara.net for a while now and often check back for info as the engine and management is so similar to our cars'. Because there is so little info out there I signed up to them and also x-trail owners club to try and get as much input as possible! Seems to be paying off with regards to useful info here, and also for my tuning.

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Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:20pm

I agree with your message: 

"I feel a bit bad for having sat on that golden nugget for a while now (been subscribed to that topic on navara forums for a while), but to be honest this was the first time it seemed very relevant.  


Agreed re the hot to and acknowledging Nissan Navara.net"

If I knew that before, then I won't spend a lot of money on changing fuel pump and svcWink, which I did




Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:32pm
Well we will see, it is interesting that Sufi is having similar problems and has not changed the pump/SVC, time will tell.


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:37pm

Then if Sufi will be ok with the car then it will mean that maybe I just wasted £...

But from another side it's still good that car works, and that's the good thing!Wink



Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:40pm
Early days, questions....
What cause the electronic glitch
Pump/SVC Fault or other


Posted By: rsxxx69
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 10:25pm
It could be, or maybe notWink


Posted By: edk_N16
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 11:03pm
I just learnt that this procedure was in the car's FSM all along so I don't feel so bad now!

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Posted By: bytio
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2011 at 9:50pm
I tried the  reset as described and the car was almost undriveable very very difficult to start and wouldnt tick over below 1500rpm.
I contacted feathers diesel in Halifax and they knew the problem straight away and said it was a Suction Control Valve? anyway went there with the car they had it 2 hours, and charged £300.00  the problem was solved, no more 0089 code perfect tivk over no limp mode and better performance/fuel consumption. Well done to them.


Posted By: edk_N16
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2011 at 12:25am
Yes generally it seems that if the reset does not work by itself then the SCV is to blame, which needs to be replaced and the reset done after again.

Glad it's sorted for you bytio .


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Posted By: valilieff
Date Posted: 18 May 2012 at 5:57am
Hi people,
thank you for your help i did the reset on nissan primera and it worked just fine. I saved my friend from replacing the fuel pump and scv only by resetting procedure described here
thanks to the forum also for the good advice

SmileTongue
Smile

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Posted By: madaboutandroid
Date Posted: 18 May 2012 at 5:33pm
Tried the reset on my 2004 2.2dci today, seemed to work at first but now back to hunting when cold. New scv waiting for me at my in laws so will pick it up tonight and fit tomorrow will report back if fault cured.

Cheers
Stephen


Posted By: thugpassion
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2012 at 4:30pm
Hello all,

Thanks so much to this forum and everyone, I change my SCV today and I am so happy. No more power loss and massive improvement in fuel consumption. After spending so much money and many parts (boost sensor, MAF, Hoses, wiring, earths and not to mention two diagnostic tests) you name it and all the time it was the SCV. I arrived at the dealership to order the SCV and was told that it cannot be this part causing the problem, and I should get a new pump altogether and aslo service the turbo. I was persistent and said no no no no.....I said I will take the risk to change the SCV as I were now more certain than ever that this was the problem. One hour later and I was a very happy man. no more power loss stress. only took 2 1/2 yrs...

Thanks again


Posted By: burgerboy78
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2012 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by rsxxx69 rsxxx69 wrote:

That was how i reseted

Thank you nissan_navara.net !!!!

""Thanks to Boohoo for reading through the workshop manual, resetting ECU and FUEL pump MAY help in cutting down on that horrible tapping noise that the D40 suffers from.
Ive carryed out this reset and the engine is alot smoother, more responsive, less smokey and alot less tappy.

To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode. (WHAT DO I DO NOW?)


sorry to bump this thread. ive just bought a p12 primera and its doing what the op said. 

my question is once i have done the above and the pump and ecu are in learning mode, what do i do then? key off?


Posted By: essNchill
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2012 at 1:23am
http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/p12-all-engines-read-reset-ecu-fuel-pump_topic54932.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/p12-all-engines-read-reset-ecu-fuel-pump_topic54932.html

--
Unless you're really interested in these, complete the ECU reset by:

Depressing and holding the accelerator pedal for an additional 10 seconds.. This will then reset the ECU!
--

And a big welcome to NPOC tooWave

Enjoy the forums and take care,
Shaun


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Posted By: Dan230490
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2016 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by rsxxx69 rsxxx69 wrote:

That was how i reseted

Thank you nissan_navara.net !!!!

""Thanks to Boohoo for reading through the workshop manual, resetting ECU and FUEL pump MAY help in cutting down on that horrible tapping noise that the D40 suffers from.
Ive carryed out this reset and the engine is alot smoother, more responsive, less smokey and alot less tappy.

To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!!""""





Thank you!!! I was having a bad time with my p12, on start up revs jumping until the engine had warmed up, the other day I nearly had a nervous breakdown when I lost power going onto the motorway, I have just done the reset and everything seems to be running smoothly!!! I will update again soon if it seems to have solved the problem fully


Posted By: paulla
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 9:32am
Hey everybody Smile I bought Nissan Primera P12 but it does not work the radio, navigation, etc. does not want to code, but secure. What should I do? I think the former owner to try and block everything. Thanks for the info

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be always happy..


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 10:03am
Hi and welcome to the forumHandshake
I think you should have started a new thread or tagged on one more similar to your problem as this thread is quite specific and not your issue at all.
That said we could have done with a bit more information about the car such as registration date, engine size/type and specification e.g S, SVE, T-spec, Flare.
The P12 have three secure messages in different colours (assuming you have a colour screen) can you tell us which you have, Do you have Sat Nav fitted?
The audio system does not use user entry codes, I suspect you have a fault on the CD player but we shall see what you have to say in replyThumbs Up


Posted By: paulla
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 10:18am
Thank youuu Smile I tried to write a query for itself .. probably miss Embarrassed I try again..

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be always happy..


Posted By: miggy
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2017 at 8:32pm
cheers for the info people got a p12 had similiar problems when i bought mine erratic idling etc got a scv of ebay about £65 worked like a treat better m.p.g big thanx 


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2017 at 9:10pm
Pleased it worked for youThumbs Up



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