New owner of 2004 Nissan Primera SE TD
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URL: http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=58202
Printed Date: 19 Apr 2024 at 6:14pm
Topic: New owner of 2004 Nissan Primera SE TD
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Subject: New owner of 2004 Nissan Primera SE TD
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 2:14pm
| Hiya folks, 1st Nissan I've ever owned & to date I'm extremly happy having made the change from Shogun sports equipe to the Primera. Double the mpg from Primera. I had a problem with drivers electric window but resolved (waiting on the parts) from the how to do section but have now a new problem which I feel sure will be an easy fix. Last night for no apparent reason the rear tailgate wouldn't open and I had to put up with a loud high pitched whistle for the best part of 120 mile journey. I have just climbed into the back & released the tailgate & tried locking/unlocking with the remote. Tailgate still won't open from outside & high pitched noise still apparent. Has anybody got any ideas they would like to share. Thanks. Owen |
Replies:
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 2:39pm
| Oops forgot to add P12 and that when I indicate either left or right the high pitched whistle stops but returns when not turning, any or all help is appreciated. Thanks. Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 4:07pm
Hi and welcome to the forum You don't say what reg your car is or what shape but guessing tail gate is hatch or wagon?
|
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 4:12pm
| Hiya, 2004 reg and it's the estate model. The door which is giving the problem is the boot door or tailgate. Cheers. Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 4:53pm
| Well from the sounds of it the rear lock mechanism is at fault. The best advice I can give is for you to download the free electronic service manual from this site, links at the top of the general section. Page BL120 on wards shows you how to strip and check the connector and lock to make the correct diagnosis |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 5:37pm
| Have you any idea when I do as you advise what I should be looking for ? The high pitched sound is like the intermittent seat belt warning sound except this noise is continuous & driving me potty. |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 5:49pm
|
The sound is the distorted chime due to the fault. If someone tries to open yor boot while you are in the car with the ignition on then you would hear a chime. In you case the car thinks the lock is trying to be opened. the manual show you how to take the lock out reach the connector and how to test it for fault
|
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 6:08pm
| I have previously downed the electronic manual & after your kind suggestion gone to page BL120 which only indicates removal/replacement of the doorlock etc (2 diagrams) no indication of how to test for fault etc, unless I've missed it, I did scroll through till the very end of that section. Thank you for your time. Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 6:19pm
| BL 26, other pages will be relevent for the secu |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 6:54pm
| Cheers, have now read the info on BL26 me thinks maybe a quick call to Nissan dealers to sort as it doesn't look like something I can sort. Do you know of anyway to cut the noise out on a temp basis or is that too complicated? Regards.Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 7:36pm
| Don't think you can |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 8:29pm
| ok, I'm guessing turn the music up which was what I did driving back from Doncaster last night, most of my travels over the coming weeks are only local except for 1 to Crewe in 2 weeks time , I may well have it sorted by then. Once more thank you for your help. Kind regards. Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 1:06pm
|
I have removed the lock but don't have the means to test if power is getting to the lock to open/close other than using the key fob, the key fob opens and closes all other doors bar the rear tailgate/door so I'm guessing that the lock is kaput unless someone else comes up with a different theory. Thanks in advance. Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 5:31pm
| what about the unlock button on the drivers door? |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 9:15pm
| I can get in/out of the car no probs using the remote key fob, I have also tried the unlock/lock using the key on the passenger door but still no activety on the tailgate/back door. I've just been to my bro-in-law & he's determined that it's probably the lock which is at fault. I will ring a couple of dismantlers tomorrow who I know have the Primera estate for a price on the lock & also check with local Nissan for a new price. Thanks once more. Regards. Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2012 at 3:26pm
| Ok folks here is where I'm at so far with this problem. Went to the breakers yard this morning & had them remove the lock (actually seen the removed lock working) replaced the lock on mine & still won't open/lock from remote key fob. I then tested my lock on breakers car & my lock is ok. On way back home decided to call into auto electricians for advice/guidance & my car is booked in for monday. The technician seems to think there is no voltage getting to the lock & ECU may be faulty he also suggested that they maybe able to bi-pass using a feed from 1 of the back doors. He seemed to know what he was talking about (went over my head) and I have used them in the past. Any other comments or advice greatly appreciated. Regards all. Owen |
Posted By: modsman
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2012 at 6:39pm
|
Sounds like a grounding fault to the BCM or damaged wiring.
------------- Skymera |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2012 at 7:21pm
| Hiya modsman & thanks for the reply, does BCM mean 'boot control mechanism'? not sure how wiring can get damaged other than the wire section from boot/tailgate to rest of the car. I was probably not a million miles drom you today whilst at the breakers in Preston. I'm in Skelmersdale, once more thanks for your help. Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2012 at 11:35pm
| That is why I referred you to the ESM to read the voltage/continuity of the connect, get your self a multi tester to find the fault. I would definitely not advise by-passing anything on the electrical side for the P12 as it is likely to cause you serious problems |
Posted By: modsman
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2012 at 11:45pm
|
BCM = Body Control Module. Basically it controls central locking, interior lighting, chimes etc. I'd be checking the rear lighting grounding connections as Nissan tended to route a lot of things that way, problematic grounds have been known to drive the car crazy. ------------- Skymera |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 12:13am
| Hiya guys & thanks for the advice, I'm not sure that even If I purchased a multi tester I would know what to do or how to test for voltage/continuity. My knowledge of cars has always been simple ie; oil,water & changing a fuse, beyond that is over my head I'm afraid. It has been suggested maybe to have the car re-programmed by Nissan, another suggestion was to attache 1 of those flexible earth'ground straps. I'm starting to get confused with it all (being 63 don't help) Some friends have had Nissans for the past 20 yrs & have never had any probs like I'm having. But I will not give up on the Primera. Thanks anyhow & kind regards to you all.Owen |
Posted By: Crash Override
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 12:45am
|
Try the advice in this thread... http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/p12-rear-light-removal-now-with-simple-earth-fix_topic16533.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/p12-rear-light-removal-now-with-simple-earth-fix_topic16533.html ------------- With enough determination and solder, anything can be connected to anything. |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 11:11am
| Thanks 'Crash Override' for the above link, I had checked this out in the 'How to do' previously & think it's something I can handle,worth doing anyhow except I'm unclear as to how the cable to the bulb section is attached,any further info would be appreciated before I tackle the job. In anticipation 'Thanks. Regards to all. Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 11:37am
| The part where I'm getting confused is: 'Bare about 2" of the other end of wire & wrap around earth track (this is the one that goes to all bulbs)' I have already prepared both wires ready for this fix so hopefully someone can enlighten me a little further. Thanks. Owen |
Posted By: wickydude
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 12:48pm
|
There is one metal part that all bulbs share as "earth track". Have a good look at it, where the bulbs touch the metal. You're supposed to wrap the 2 inch bare wire around that track. ------------- http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/635381.html" rel="nofollow">  Ex: Primera P12 1.9dCi Estate<b |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 1:00pm
|
Thanks wickydude, I'm guessing now that it's not a fixed wrap round ie: soldered or clamped onto the silver metal part just wrapped tightly around, my car is the estate, lighting cluster is different but the same priciple will apply no doubt. I have sent email to admin requesting payment procedure for joining & created a google acc, just waiting Thanks once more wickydude .Regards.Owen |
Posted By: wickydude
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 1:33pm
|
You're welcome. Hope you get it fixed. BTW, soldering is not forbidden  But if the wrapped wire is in good contact, I believe that is enough.------------- http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/635381.html" rel="nofollow"> Ex: Primera P12 1.9dCi Estate<b |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 1:55pm
| I hope I get it fixed, I don't believe soldering is an option because the metal track although steel is zinc plated and may prove difficult to get a good solder contact. I do have some small sink earth clamps which may prove useful & they can be crimped at the bare wire end. After doing all the above fix & assuming it hasn't resolved my problem I guess going to Nissan dealers is my only option. I don't understand car electrics or wiring diagrams ( giving me a headache just thinking about it LOL) and with the inherent electric problems associated with the Primera I'm somewhat apprehensive about tackling something I know little about. My 1st Nissan & I've got to say even though I have had 1 or 2 problems with the car it is for me a dream to drive & in hindsight I should have changed to Nissan many yrs ago. Cheers again wickydude. Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 10:29pm
| Just discovered that the rear/tailgate door can be opened from the switch on the front drivers door, as it didn't have a symbol on the switch I never thought to press it, but heyho I can now get into the back/tailgate door without having to clamber over rear passenger seats. I still have the loud audible noise though which is very irritating. Tomorrow I'm hoping to do the grounding fix on the rear light clusters which I removed/checked today to make sure I can do it & the instructions/photographs are bang on. Thanks. regards.Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2012 at 12:47pm
| Have now attached the extra grounding on both rear light clusters and still loud audible noise and rear/tailgate door still won't open/close with the key fob...... has anybody got any further ideas? I'm at a loss to think what else it maybe. Regards all. Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2012 at 4:19pm
I asked you about operating the door using the switch way back on page 2
 well you got there in the end which now tells us something else...the electrical continuity is good, the sound you are hearing i suspect is the rapid repeating of the chime when someone is attempting to open the boot when it is locked, 'anti-hijack'. i will have a look if it is possible to overide this mode. It could be either the SECU is bust or the lock is on its way, try some wd40 on it. |
lillypodsparrot wrote:Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2012 at 5:11pm
| To be honest even though you mentioned the unlock on driver's door I didn't at that time as there was no symbol on the switch so didn't try until last night as I was waiting for the wife to come out from work (bored). What I have found on the unlock feature on the drivers door is that I have to press twice for it to operate which is ok as it's now opening. The noise is more like a continuous noise as opposed to a rapid repeat. I have tried WD40 to no avail. Strange tho that when I indicate left or right or hazards or seat belt warning are on it reverts back to normal sound. I won't let it get to me. Anyhow thanks for checking it out. Regards. Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2012 at 7:33pm
|
The button is different from others so the back door/hatch should not be accidently open while driving. instead of pressing it twice just keep pressing longer Edit. to change from Anti-hijack mode to convenience mode while in the car press the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds.. to return to hijack mode do the same procedure While in convenience mode do you still get the buzzing?
|
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2012 at 2:13pm
| I have just tried as you suggested and I assume you meant the button on the centre console just back from the gearstick with a key / window/door symbol on the switch. Without the keys in ignition and this button is pressed little light on the switch is lit & buzzing noise is there & stops buzzing when switched off, once engine is running no matter which way it's switched the noise is still there. Thanks for your time .Regards.Owen |
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2012 at 4:08pm
| Sorry I did not make myself clear, the buttons on your keyfob need to be pressed |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2012 at 4:19pm
| Cheers. I'll go & check that now. Thanks.Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2012 at 4:38pm
| Still the same, me thinks that SECU is bust or something worse!!! Pity you wer'nt a little closer coz I would run the car to you. But thanks anyway bud. Regards.Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 12:00pm
| I have seen so many references to dis-connecting the battery etc for 20mins or so that I've just undone mine, maybe fingers crossed. In the old days before all the technology when dis-connecting a battery, it was always earth (negative) 1st followed by positive. Does this still apply? |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 12:38pm
| Didn't work, still got the same on-going noise which is doing my head in. I think this car is brill hence my reason for sticking with it, just can't afford the Nissan dealers at the mo (all spare cash gone on a new pa) Any other ideas fellas/girls. Regards. Owen |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 1:37pm
| Just had long chats with different Nissan main dealers who have informed me that I could probably end up spending £100's trying to find the fault as my description will not show up on the computer & the minimum charge is £95 + the same per hr thereafter. Looks like I will have to suffer this noise forever or get rid of the car which is a shame because I really do like it!!!! |
Posted By: wickydude
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 2:01pm
|
If you can do without the light reminder and youre sure everything is working fine otherwise, you could choose to disconnect the buzzer entirely. It sits behind your clocks in the dash. Check this topic: http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/nissan-primera-p12-estate-indicator-buzzer_topic57043.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/nissan-primera-p12-estate-indicator-buzzer_topic57043.html ------------- http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/635381.html" rel="nofollow"> Ex: Primera P12 1.9dCi Estate<b |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 2:39pm
| It appears I have the face lift model and this dash is not so easy to remove, everything does appear to be functionong as it should so I wouldn't have a problem in disconnecting the buzzer if only I could get to it. Thanks. Owen |
Posted By: Electrolyte
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 3:14pm
|
Just done a check on my 06 p12 to confirm your symptoms and found as follows, if tailgate closed but not pushed down to lock , then car locked with remote a high pitched whistle is sounded as warning to let you know tailgate not properly closed.Push tailgate down and sounder goes off. This suggests a seperate door switch which in my case would operate the boot light. Try pulling your rear seat forward to see if light is on, find the switch and if posible short the terminals to confirm sounder goes off. if switch broken the secu unit will think tailgate is open and will not operate the lock via remote control but the door lock button on arm rest is wired directly to the lock for unlocking. Hope this helps Regards ------------- If in doubt give it a clout! |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 4:04pm
| Thanks Electrolyte, your post sound feasible will try it out a little later on & report back. Regards.Owen |
Posted By: wickydude
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 4:16pm
Don't know about that. I thought the facelift model still has the triangular shape covers. It should at least be similar. The ESM does not have details on that, I'm afraid, all pre facelift Don't think Nissan dealer will charge you much for taking off the panel and disconnecting your buzzer. ------------- http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/635381.html" rel="nofollow"> Ex: Primera P12 1.9dCi Estate<b |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 4:22pm
| On mine it is a complete cover & I have tried (failed) to remove. Nissan dealer will still charge for a full hr even if it only takes a minute ( £95 ) Cheers.Owen |
Posted By: wickydude
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 4:38pm
|
WTF you guys have some strange dealerships there,chargin you for every 5min job,it seems. I was just looking at the ESM, section BL. On page BL-19 there is a "back door release actuator (back door switch)". I THINK that means that for the estate, there is a switch in the actuator itself, or it acts like a switch. Now IF that has failed, that could give you the buzz. I don't know if you've tried anything regarding the actuator, but an option could be to source a used actuator from a scrappy and change it. Again, I'm trying to think of options, but no guarantees ------------- http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/635381.html" rel="nofollow"> Ex: Primera P12 1.9dCi Estate<b |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 4:59pm
| Just printed all the ideas you guys have given me, gone out to check them & realized I swapped cars for the day with my in-laws ( yes I know ) It will have to wait now till tomorrow, will keep you all posted on progress. Thanks once more guys. Regards.Owen |
Posted By: Electrolyte
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 10:00pm
|
Just thinking! Something else worth checking if fitted is the bonnet switch , unable to check effect of not closing bonnet propperly on mine at momemt due to sudden severe f-ing toothache "Sorry" cant think straight.Best Regards ------------- If in doubt give it a clout! |
Posted By: wickydude
Date Posted: 09 May 2012 at 10:21am
|
Don't think the bonnet has a switch, mate. ------------- http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/635381.html" rel="nofollow"> Ex: Primera P12 1.9dCi Estate<b |
Posted By: Electrolyte
Date Posted: 09 May 2012 at 1:49pm
|
Just done a bonnet check on my sve which has a bonnet switch for anti theft and produces high pitch whistle again if car locked and bonnet not pushed down properly. ------------- If in doubt give it a clout! |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 09 May 2012 at 2:00pm
| Got my car back home today, just waiting on the rain to go off then I'll check. Hope the toothache is better mate. regards.Owen |
Posted By: wickydude
Date Posted: 09 May 2012 at 2:24pm
|
@electrolyte: My car does not have an alarm system, that must be why I don't have a bonnet switch. ------------- http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/635381.html" rel="nofollow"> Ex: Primera P12 1.9dCi Estate<b |
Posted By: Electrolyte
Date Posted: 09 May 2012 at 5:33pm
|
Wasnt sure if maybe bonnet switch would be a standard part of NATS as well as an alarm. It would appear the tailgate switch is iether an integrated part of the actuator or piggy backed onto it but as lillypodsparrot has swapped it at a breakers I would be looking to next most vulnerable thing , possibly a broken wire at the tailgate to body flexi-tube.PVC wire covering has a habit of becoming hard and brittle and with the opening and closing of tailgate will snap, I,ve centainly had that on other cars. Regards ------------- If in doubt give it a clout! |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 17 May 2012 at 1:09pm
| Ok guys finally got round to checking all the ideas/advice given, all door switches operate as they should ie: lights come on whenever doors or tailgate open/shut. Have also checked as far as I could the wiring at tailgate door for breakage,appears to be ok. Don't know whether a diagnostic check will tell me what the fault is. Some Nissan main dealers are telling me it won't show up & others are telling me to book the car in at a minimum charge of £95. I'm at a loss as to what to do for the best. Are any of you guys local to me, I would gladly pay to get the problem sorted but object to being ripped off by a Nissan main dealer. |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 17 May 2012 at 4:06pm
| Just returned from main Nissan dealers who informed me it is a faulty buzzer & the only cure is either replace or dis-connect the buzzer which is what you guys suggested. They gave me a printout of the removal & install dashboard components which is in the ESM anyhow. It doesn't look like an easy job to remove the dash to get at the buzzer (not something I would attempt) unlike the earlier P12. I went to the rear of the Nissan dealers & spoke to the technicians so avoided having to pay for the advice & printout & also got the contact No of 1 of the technicians who has his own weekend workshop so any future work will be carried out by him. |
Posted By: Electrolyte
Date Posted: 17 May 2012 at 4:50pm
|
Glad you got to the bottom of this ,had ran out of ideas myself and as you say the facelift P12 if very different to the earlier ones. Have been trying to source an updated manual without luck so far. ------------- If in doubt give it a clout! |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 17 May 2012 at 5:25pm
| The techo only gave me basic info (printed) on removal of the dash gonna check the ESM shortly to see if it's the same info. There doesn't appear so far to be a simple method of removal of the dash. I think I'll end up letting the techo do it. |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 21 May 2012 at 1:23pm
| Just come back from having Consult 11 attached & all is clear as last week my Prim went into limp mode & I used the info kindly provided on here, followed the instructions to the second & it worked perfectly, tech said after Consult 11 no codes to report on. So to you guys THANK YOU for all the help to us learners. Car is also booked in for wednesday coming to have the buzzer disconnected & a service, all going well it should be back to normal ( no loud internal siren ) |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 23 May 2012 at 9:33pm
| At last some peace, found the culprit buzzer. Wish I had a camera with me when the tech took the dashboard apart (took all of 3 mins) the buzzer is a small round black plastic component which is soldered onto the circuit board, easy enough to twist & snap off without damaging the circuit board. No warning sound at all now, not even for indicating or lights left on but I can handle that. Whilst doing the service he found a rear callipor was siezed & he freed off, a bush on the rear arm was leaking, gonna price 1 of those along with a window regulator for next job. All in all guys pleased with what work was done & his price for doing it. |
Posted By: Electrolyte
Date Posted: 23 May 2012 at 9:54pm
|
Sounds like the buzzer is a symptom rather than a cause but as long as your happy! This is second time I've read tonight about leaking bushes, can you elaborate as I have always undestood bushes to be solid, were they made by P I P by any chance?  ------------- If in doubt give it a clout! |
Posted By: lillypodsparrot
Date Posted: 24 May 2012 at 12:17am
| Not sure to be honest, whilst the Prim was on the ramp the tech pointed it out to me, 1 side has cleary been replaced. The only thing he did say was they are quite expensive & would call me tomorow with the price. Oh dear!!!! |