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Heart transplant K11, don't ban me yet!

Printed From: Nissan Primera Owners Club
Category: General Open Forums - NO TRADING!
Forum Name: New Members
Forum Discription: Say hello and introduce yourselves!
Printed Date: 20 Feb 2019 at 9:58pm

Topic: Heart transplant K11, don't ban me yet!
Posted By: daskulthomas
Subject: Heart transplant K11, don't ban me yet!
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 11:18am
Allow me to introduce myself,

First of all I've actually never owned a primera, only ridden the back seat once and stared down engine bays that held SR's in them.

My first car in fact, was a Silvia S12. Back then my knowledge of mechanical engineering were: 'rwd + turbo = doriftou!' due to the stuff picked up watching Initial D and playing Forza motorsport.

This is where turning wrenches started for me, replacing worn bushings with polyurethane, ball joints, worn dampers for coilovers, reconditioning brake calipers, a basic fmic install and beginner wiring work was all adding to my resumee when things took a turn fort he worst.

On a moist morning i had it’s first track outing without checking my tire pressure, resulting in the view above. With it’s wheelbase shortened 200mm on one side i knew i had to manage another set of wheels to pick up parts for this one.

Few weeks later i inherited a March/Micra through a friend. With a few dents and a few bad sensors it set me back less than a week’s paycheck to have it running correctly. Even though it was slOoow i figured it was perfect for hauling parts fort he next 6 months or so i calculated the restoration to take. In the process i was reminded i had never welded in my life and wanted a forged bottom end among other things so things took a little longer than expected…

In the following year(s) i've picked up some welding classes and began building an understanding, almost respect sort of vibe towards the simplicity and ease of access of the little K11, a different set of wheels and some small suspension work followed decreasing the (immense) body roll.

But one part that always bothered me, was it’s 0-60 time of 16,5 seconds

What you’re watching here is a GA16DE derived from a P11-144, the head, pan and valve cover were taken off for inspection and fresh gaskets installed. The Garrett T25 from my S12 was fitted since I won’t be refitting that later, I rebuilt it’s entire rotating assembly as the housing and turbine wheel were warped after it’s imminent shut down after the crash. All of this I’m trying to run off a P10 SR20DE ecu with nistune installed (83JXX series) . Matching SR 269cc top feed injectors are also fitted on a diy fuel rail.

Further mods include:

DIY mild steel Exhaust Manifold

GA16i distributor/CAS sensor

PRW2 ignitor chip, S12 Ignition Coil

Austin Mini Aluminum Sports radiator with modified in/outlets (25 to 35 o.d)

S13 CA18DET Maf sensor

Generic cone air filter

EGR, A/C and steering pump delete (car had neither)

Oil cooler with thermostat sandwich plate

SLC free 2 Lambda controller


As of currently the car won’t fire as the ref triggers for the CAS aren’t fed 5v by the ECU (pin 22 & 30), currently double checking my loom while waiting for another ECU to arrive.

By the time i get the engine to fire and it’s keeping it’s fluids and guts in i’ll finish the exhaust system (currently just a diy 2,5” mild steel downpipe till about the firewall), try fit in an S15 FMiC if there’s space and try tidying up the bay.


Hopefully that clarifies my visit here! LOL When i run into trouble i am hoping some of you might be able to assist me. Any questions or requests of photo’s i’ll be glad to supply.


Posted By: essNchill
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 1:33pm
Hey and a big welcome to NPOC :) You won't be getting banned for any of this, we all love a fast Micra and your project and progress using Primera parts to get it to this stage, is awesome!

I've sorted your piccies from your opening post.. Keep the updates coming.

Enjoy the forums and take care,

Posted By: Stevie-Boy
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 2:44pm
Welcome, this looks awesome, please keep us updated with progress and pictures!!

2005 Honda Jazz Sport AF
Member of the Month: Jan 2014
ex P11 Si, P11 GT, P11-144 Sport+, P11 GT Turbo, P11-144 Wagon, 350z

Posted By: roy.2
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 2:45pm
Hi Das. Welcome to NPOC. Handshake
Amazing work you are doing there. Thumbs Up


Posted By: keithSRI
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 5:56pm
This. Is. Awesome. Rockon


Posted By: ragt20
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 7:19pm
welcome to npoc, was a tasty looking S12 that, shame it ended up like that...

FAO : Laurens, I am not Shaun.
FAO : bavs83, I am not Tan.

Posted By: Blue
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 9:02am
Sorry to see the S12 in such a state but hopefully we'll be seeing some great things with the K11 - It's shaping up to be awesome!! Welcome to the club


Posted By: Janner
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 9:16am
Welcome and awesome project.

Keep up the good work.

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 1:03pm
Hi and welcome to the forumHandshake, looks like some great project workThumbs Up

Posted By: p11primeragt
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 4:43pm
Welcome to the forum


Posted By: schwen
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 8:46pm
Welcome to the forums, what a nice read!

------------- MOTM April ´ COTM April ´11

Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 10:02am

Thank you for a warm welcome, and thanks essNchill for fixing my broken links!


As for updates, still haven’t had it firing.

I’m consulting the P10 and P11 FSM’s on here to work it out, though showing an OBD2 style ECM harness layout, i’m hoping pinouts are more or less the same. I’ve had a go at turning the CAS by hand with the ignition on and i’m hearing the injectors clicking, so at least my timing is reaching the ecu and i’m getting fuel i guess?

Whatever it is that’s not giving me spark is before the coil (tested, and even then replaced with a spare. Also checked it with a light bulb just in case.), so i’m currently suspecting my PRW2 power ignitor, even though it’s showing continuity in all the right directions.


In the meantime some photo’s will be spammed from earlier stages.


Since i hadn’t heard the engine run some rattle straps were trown over a beam in the shed to take the sump off for inspection. All looked nice in here yet it had to be taken off anyway to create and entry for the turbo’s oil return, some beaded tube was cut off piece a scrap and welded in place.

In the spirit of ‘rather safe than sorry’ i decided a fresh head gasket wouldn’t hurt. This was also a nice opportunity to check the head, valves and pistons for any weird coloring or mayo (coolant meeting oil). Luckily in my case none of that was the issue, the existing head gasket looked practically new!

I had looked into MLS or copper options but couldn’t find much readily available. The design of the stock HG looks promising on itself though, and heard from an acquaintance that it is able to withstand boost creep up to 1.2 atmosphere (17 psi) through personal experience.

If it wasn’t clear already this is a budget build, i’m not looking to run ¼ mile times or 20psi of boost. If i can succeed in tripling the stock output of 60ps and maintain daily driveability i’ll be a happy man. I will take it out on track when it feels stable but this will mostly be used hauling parts and leave bimmer boys baffled at traffic lights.

CA18ET S12
GA16de+T25 K11

Posted By: RS Tom-Hundred
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 1:15pm
Welcome to the club and good luck with the build - all looking good so far! Clap


Posted By: Dunmanifestin
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 7:55am
Welcome! Great work so far, keep it up and always more pictures!

--Kuro P11GT Saloon-- COTM April '13

Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 12:38am

Previous post may have been a little boring, onto the modifications that were made.


Space is a concern dropping one of these engines in a micra. Those who have tried the swap before tend to adapt the stock gearbox to a GA via an adapter so a K11 flywheel/clutch assembly can be fitted, preferably a 1.3 box since these are supposedly stronger. When that’s fixed 3 of the stock motor mounts can be assembled and the pulleys side is cut and welded with one motor mount left to worry about.


I for one prefer to keep the gearbox matched with the engine. Not only are micra gear ratios short, i don’t expect it to last long with the torque it will handle.  This requires custom motor mounts, drive shafts, and positioning later on, which i will discuss later on…

In order to save space prematurely i took the crank pulley to a lathe at my job. Since i am not using a/c cause it’s only hot a few days a year, the front belt pulley was removed. I forgot to take photos of the process or an before & after, but this is a vague photo of what i ended up with.


(Un)fortunate for me, the motor was bought with everything except the exhaust manifold missing. This partly had me decide to force induce it… the other part being i still had a T25 lingering around with no destination. I work with heavy metal on the daily and had always dreamt of building a manifold! I took some basic measures of the exhaust ports, written them down and decided to plasma cut a flange. As a metal working trainee i spent a few months behind an industrial plasmacutter that cuts pretty accurately and up to 15mm thick. A few calculated holes into scrap bits of mild steel had me leaving two flanges.


From here it was merely an estimate of where i’d want the turbo to sit, get some thick walled mandrel bends and angle grind like no tomorrow. I wanted the turbo to sit close and snug to the block as possible, but stay away from a Log manifold, as the idea of exhaust pulses pressuring the back of valves is something i wanted to prevent. The results aren’t quite an equal length, pulse tuned header, i ended up tacking together more or less a semi-log kind of design. As long as the exhaust flow directs towards the turbine i’m hoping to save wearing my head gasket if marginally.


After all was tacked i took it to an acquaintance to have it TIG-ged, less tension is created in the material this way and will save it from cracking prematurely. 


With the mani being so compact i forgot to think about the turbo’s orientation. I was  going to re-orient it anyway but with the wastegate so snug i’m curious to see how it’ll behave. I might opt for an external wastegate in the future.


Present progress:

Wiring the P10 ecu mixing SR looms with GA and CG did my head in, despite the waste of effort and $$ a Microsquirt MS2 standalone could be obtained through an acquaintance and am currently wiring that up now. Advantages include: bye MAF, hello MAP! (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) Losing about 6 plugs in the loom and space in the bay for smaller piping/air filter, full programmability of course, ease of wiring etc.

The only mayor adjustments that will need to be done are swapping out the CAS triggerwheel for one that’s MS compatible and adding a IAT sensor (Inlet Air Temperature).

CA18ET S12
GA16de+T25 K11

Posted By: surreyGT
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 12:55am
this is superb keep the updates coming.

in the garage
P11 GT back on road/track
P10 eGT immaculate road car
BMW 130i sport (for wife)
350 Z new track car 2003
Swift GTi mk2 racing car 89'
Celica St162 GT coupe 1988
Several other 3.0 BMW's

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 9:25am
Great update

Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2018 at 1:09pm

The way i came to this build was through an acquintance who i had talked to before with a GA16i B12 Sunny boosting it on a budget, which had run for a while and quite reliably.

When i found out the GA series were relatively easily fitted in a K11 i asked him what the requirements were to make it run and he came back with a surprisingly short list of components:

Turbo (appropriate size, whichi i had laying around collecting dust)

SR20 Injectors (270-370cc)


SR20DE Ecu (preferably w/ nistune to balance the maps regarding rich fueling)


Previously i showcased the exhaust manifold on a budget, the injectors were a little bigger expense as i didn’t have a spare set laying around since i’ve never been interested in tinkering w/ SR stuff. Through a respectable seller i managed to pick up a P10GT ECU, 269cc top feed injectors + rail + FPR (which delivers the same pressure anyway but spares never hurt) and S13 CA18DET MAF all at the same adress. With the recent decision to utilize a Microsquirt ECU instead the MAF and ECU turn out unnecessary, as the microsquirt utilises Manifold Air Pressure and Inlet Air Temp sensors to register the incoming density and calculate for fueling. When you compare this to a maf – which measures in Front of the compressor housing and throttle plate – it registers as close to  the inlet port as you can get which negates the eventual rich fueling when pressure drops in the inlet circuit by a Bov or closing throttle.


Anyway let me showcase the build for the fuel rail, the easiest and fastest way for anyone to do this is obtain an aluminum extrusion profile, or as listed on ebay ‘universal fuel rail’. Then cut to size, determine outlet distances, drill, tap the ends for hose barbs.. Straight forward stuff when using top feed injectors! It’s a little more difficult for side feeds, as the seats need to be machined etc, probably more cost effective to purchase something here.


In my case i had to adapt a little since the O-rings on the injectors protruded into the rail and would piss out gasoline straight on the head. I came up with some spacers i  made on the lathe that fit snug on the injectors and would rest on some seeger rings.


The stock pressure reg bolts straight onto the stock rail, to adapt for that (again, budget, holding out on aftermarket unless/until i really need it) i drilled through a big bolt and cut a little flange which i welded to it which bolts straight into the rail. There are SR20 adapters out there that mate top feed injectors to side feed inlet ports (these are way wider) so a set of them and some made up brackets considered the fuel delivery adressed.


Upon raising the rail I noticed the throttle cable needed a little detour, adjusting the bracket was a 5 minute job.

CA18ET S12
GA16de+T25 K11

Posted By: schwen
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 8:13am
Awesome work

------------- MOTM April ´ COTM April ´11

Posted By: RS Tom-Hundred
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 9:15am
Nice one!  Top fabbing! Thumbs Up


Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 11:16pm

CA18ET S12
GA16de+T25 K11

Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 11:27pm

Thank you all for the kind comments! To be quite frank I didn’t expect this forum to be as active, or maybe the stupidity of this build is attracting the attention. 😊


A Lot has happened in the meantime, but I’ll attempt to write everything as chronological as possible.

I left off upgrading the fuel gallery, I rebuilt the turbo myself a few months ahead, as it turned out the rotating assembly casting had warped. The entire rotating assembly is all new parts; housing from Melett, turbine wheel from Kinugawa, upgraded to a 360 thrust bearing and tapered oil seal. Upon bolting that all that was really left was to plumb the oil and water lines to the turbo. Oil feed was tapped off the oil pressure sender with a T piece and I had some lines made up at the local hydraulic shop, an oil restrictor is not something they usually sell so I just welded it shut and drilled it through with a 2mm drill. it’s not a ball bearing, but I doubt it would hurt doing so.


Water lines were pricey stuff, only cause 600psi stuff was the only stuff in stock that would fit a 14mm banjo onto the rotating assembly.  There’s a coolant plug on the exhaust side of cylinder 3, I decided to utilise that for a feed and weld a bung onto the retour pipe for the exiting side.

In a previous post I welded a beaded pipe to the oil pan for the return line, however I didn’t like the way how my downpipe was within an inch of a rubber hose , upon reconsideration a few months later I lended some stainless hydraulic line and a bender to make up an oil return out of is. I had a few minutes on the lathe to make a little flange with a chamber cut inside to house a copper ring to seal the rotating assembly side. The other end of the line was welded onto a banjo fitting which would connect to a bung on the pan side. Not only will this refrain any oil spilling from tearing rubber but hopefully it will support the manifold a little too instead of everything stressing off the exhaust studs.



I brought the engine on a trailer to a friend where I had access to a hoist and a dry area to work in. the old cg10 was out the same evening I arrived, from there it took a few days to align the engine in and make up some motor mounts. in hindsight I would’ve tried to offset the engine a little more so I wouldn’t have to cut a piece out of the chassis rail to clear the water pump pulley, but I’m confident of my welding skills and I’ll probably be doing a little bracing later on.


I decided to keep the stock gearbox as a CG13 box would sh*t itself within a few mild pulls, that doesn’t go without saying the stock GA clutch would hold up. At the time I wasn’t aware of any readily available aftermarket clutch kits to fit a GA, I know of an exedy copper disc but was out of stock on the few places I seen it. Asking around I stumbled upon a company few hours north that specialise in custom clutches! Basically they would take in the old clutch and pressure plate, make sure the springs are within spec and take the old clutch lining off, calculate what linings need sintering on (a copper composite in my case) and replaced the pressure plate for one with sufficient clamp force. All of which cost less than a brand new exedy!




Since the original box will be used hybrid drive driveshafts were in order. CG13 CV joints are noticeably beefier than the 10’s at the wheel side so a pair was sourced. The GA gearbox was taken back to the place where the engine came from, where drive shafts were found that seemed to fit.

When the engine was mounted the CV joints were taken off and all 4 drive shafts cut in half, the lengths necessary were sorta eyeballed with the CV stubs in the box and spindle and the suspension compressed (there’s about 2 inches of play within the stub for margin). A smooth finish was made on the lathe and a thick walled tube made to fit snug over the 2 halves and tacked together. To prevent warping and make sure it was a true straight it was clamped in the lathe before welding it crosswise.

I don’t have many photos of the process cause of the constant trouble shooting and drive to get it done and out as quickly so I wouldn’t hold up his own agenda , but after 9 days or so the shape was coming together.

CA18ET S12
GA16de+T25 K11

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