Nissan Primera P11 SR20DE MAF faults |
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tokyoracer
NPOC Guest Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Location: UK Online Status: Points: 37 |
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Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 11:06pm |
Well it's been a few years nice I was last active on here. Hope you guys are keeping well, especially during these uncertain times.
So a little back story (ignore this paragraph if you're in a rush): Exactly 5 years from this month, I bought myself a 12,000 mile 1996 2.0 Primera SE (P11). I hoped to keep the miles low but life had other ideas and in the space of 5 years it's racks up 63,000 and counting. Anyway, with that aside it brings me on to my issue. In the beginning of the year, the car developed a splutter on idle and kept cutting back on power at random and in persistent bursts. After some investigation and a fault check, it came back with a MAF Sensor fault. Trouble was every garage I went to, they wanted well north of £350 to replace it with a new OEM! However, I managed to get a used part from a car I know for certain worked and ran fine (killed by the rust bug) and it improved it somewhat. Idle was far better and had no issues once finally up to speed (50MPH+) but was still often an absolute pig during acceleration. I haven't given it a clean but my airbox is spotless past the filter and the MAF itself also clean as a whistle, both original and replacement. I decided to try and replace the Pre-Cat Lambda and after several rip-off quotes I thought I'd try eBay. After getting confused at why mine looked so different and discovering the boss was stuck to it, I did manage to get the new one for a good price and fitted it. Again, I felt a notable improvement but it still wasn't 100%. Then soon after my battery was showing signs of giving up the ghost. It was a 2014 battery so I figured it was about it's time. I got a new one fitted now and the car starts great and again, unless it's my imagination, it does seem to run a bit better but it's still slightly noticeable. And that brings us up to date. So to sum up; I've replaced the MAF, Pre-Cat Lambda, battery and given it two services during the time this all started and I'd say it's about 80-90% improved. So my question is, what on earth could display this behaviour? Surely of you fix the fault it should either go away completely not just reduce the symptoms with each sensor replacement and a battery. I do wonder if something electrical went really bad and knocked out all the sensors but I'm sure if that was the case the car would barely run at all when this started. The error code never came back either after resetting the ECU, nor had any others ever cropped up. Never produced a check engine light either which I thought was kinda weird. Any light or experiences would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking of checking the crank sensor next but I'm not 100% sure it is the issue here. Plus I have no idea where it is on this motor. Sorry it's a bit wordy and thanks for reading if you got this far! |
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