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Nissan Primera P12 drivers door regulator

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wolfratt68 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 11:17pm
had an issue today, drivers window on close then the window 'canted' to the front, after trying to open/close several times the regulator 'appeared' to stay in the 'down' possession, after pulling the door card i found the glass was un-glued from the regulator an what appears to be a bowden cable flapping around. glass lifts out of the door from above but even with all (viable) bolts removed i cant get the regulator away from the door, anyone have any ideas?
 
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imckay View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imckay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 8:14am
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carloz19 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carloz19 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 10:49am
hi, I guess you've probably got this done by now, but for the benefit of anyone else in the same position....

I've just done mine, similar issue, regulator guide snapped and detached, one attachment point came off glass, cable mangled.

The p12 manuals downloadable from this forum show how to get the regulator module off the door - it's a fiddle but once you peer inside it becomes easier - the guide rails that the window goes up and down on substantially overlap the inside of the aperture that the regulator assembly is bolted to. You undo the perimeter bolts, and note that either side at the top there are two plastic locating pegs. Lift out the one towards the front of the doo while holding the other in its hole. Pivot the whole regulator module around the other locating peg, moving the top of the front-of-door side down, then the bottom of the front inside rail should move to a place where you can lift it back towards you out of the frame., Now you can drop that side even more to get the top of that rail out from the top, and then pop out the rearmost upper locating pin and kind of fiddle it all around 'til the bottom lifts clear and the remaining top of the rearmost regulator guide rail will come out by dropping the whole unit down. You will need to pop out the cable clip nearest the front of the door on the winder motor loom, in order to have enough wriggle room. Once you have it free, pop the remaining cable clips off to give some working space, undo the three torx head self-tappers that attach the drum assembly through the panel to the motor, so the motor falls off. Only then can you get at the clip you need to pull on to detach the loom connector from the motor, which will make life easier later.

With the detached mounts on the glass, ideally, do NOT clean the old glue off the glass, it's your only chance, beside getting another window, of getting the tabs back on in the right place.

Note which way round the tabs are on the sliders. (Take a picture!) Unbolt the windows tabs from the sliders in the regulator - they're black plastic thingos with a captive m5 nut. If they're not snapped, give them a light wiping with some isopropyl to degrease the bits that will be glued. Clean the bottom of the glass and degrease but *leave the remnants of the old rubbery glue.* Wipe over it lightly with isopropyl. Examine it carefully. If you're lucky, you'll see a line in the middle which is glue-free - this corresponds to the centre of the tab, where there's a raised line in the moulding, you'll see what I mean when you look at it. Use some kind of glue with some "give", but serious glue, not Bostic or somesuch. Evo-stik at a pinch. I used some weird stuff I use for foam model 'planes called, er, "serious glue" or something like that, it grips like crazy and dries slightly flexible in an acceptably short time. Different territories have different glues! "Gorilla glue" will probably do the job. Don't use anything brittle like CA (superglue/sekundkleber/crazy glue) as this will just detach and isn't even waterproof, and never sticks well to glass. Epoxy will probably be too rigid and just detach. Silicone rubber sealant would be perfect but takes ages to set.

My regulator rails were riveted to the door assembly - Nissan obviously replace the whole module, at ruinous expense. My replacement regulator came from ebay and was seventeen quid (GBP) brand new, fitted perfectly, but to get the old one off I had to drill off the rivet heads (use a decent 8mm or so sharp HSS drill bit from the interior side of the panel - the rivet heads on mine were age-hardened and surprisingly hard work for aluminium but came off readily enough with no damage to the hole. M5 bolts are a snug fit in the holes. You need 4 M5 bolts, about 10mm long, with any kind of wide-ish head, and 4x NYLOK M5 nuts. If you haven't got nylok or equivalent locking nuts, use pairs of half-nuts locked and plenty of loctite, you do *not* want them falling off inside the door, it would be a real pain.

Given the hassle of disassembly, it's probably not worth trying to rescue the old regulator cable assembly unless it genuinely looks as good as new, hit ebay for an aftermarket replacement. Or get a complete
module from a scappie.

To refit the glass once rebuilt (don't forget to route the door handle cable...), wind it down til the mounting points are visible through the holes in the module, so as to fit the m5 bolts. Don't drop them into the door :-)

The sticking points I had included that my door interior was different to the downloaded manual. My window switch assembly doesn't have a screw holding it on, it's I guess the older type, plain rectangular, push-fit. To get it out you have to pry from the end nearest the back of the door while simultaneously prying the front and encouraging it up and forwards - there's a long hooky tab at the front end, and a small metal clip at the back.

I stupidly started this a bit too late and I was working by the kerbside, so I did most of the repair and reassembly in the dark, which certainly doesn't help, but it went OK.

Good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carloz19 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 10:57am
P.S. obviously, make absolutely sure you have the window tabs the right way around before glueing them to the window! The lifters that go up and down the rails have metal tabs with a sort of forked bit at the top, this locates onto the corresponding recesses in the window tab and the M6 bolt that holds them on goes from interior side through the metal slider tab then into the captive nut in the plastic window tab.

You could 3D print replacement window tabs if they are broken, if *very* determined to avoid the expense of a s/h window :-)
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