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Nissan Primera P12 Weird MOT scenario

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The_Great_Cornholio View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The_Great_Cornholio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Nissan Primera P12 Weird MOT scenario
    Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 7:51pm
I bought a P12 T-Spec recently, sight unseen but it had recently been MOT'd (Feb) so I figured what the hell, at least I'll get the best part of a year out of it, and I bought an extended Momentum Platinum warranty (6mths). 

I drove it home the 400 miles from Glasgow (in monsoon conditions), and only done short trips since. Overall the drive is good, needs a strong foot on the clutch for first, gearbox isn't the best and is much happier in 5th or 6th, but pretty happy with my purchase. One thing which I thought did need attention was the nearside rear tyre, which loses air (down from 2 bar to 1 bar in a few days, when the others might not lose any or 0.1), so I made an appointment to put it in our local garage.

When making the appointment for an intermediate service, re-gas A/C and nearside rear, I added this note:

Also please take for a run, seems ok but only recently got it, getting into first needs strong foot on clutch, gearbox not the smoothest but you get used to it. I've got platinum level Momentum warranty if much needs doing, but has only recently been MOTd and serviced, so shouldn't do (might not even need intermediate, but will be guided by you). 

Went to pick it up tonight, and was horrified to learn that not only had they performed an MOT which it didn't need nor did I ask for, but in so doing they've found the following:

Repair immediately (major defects):

  • Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively damaged significantly reducing structural strength Floor pan (5.3.6 (a) (i))
  • Offside Front Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
  • Nearside Front Wheel bearing has excessive play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
  • Nearside Front Brake hose excessively deteriorated (1.1.12 (b) (ii))
  • Offside Rear Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
  • Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

  • Nearside Front Track rod end locking device missing Dangerous
  • Rear Fuel Pipe/s corroded Filler neck ()
  • Nearside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
  • Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
  • Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area damaged but not considered excessive Floor pan (5.3.6 (a) (i))
  • Nearside Front ABS warning wire insecure.
  • Offside Rear Position light not working,but More than 1/2 not functioning
  • Nearside Front Macpherson strut corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • Offside Front Macpherson strut corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • Nearside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Trailing arm (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • Offside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Trailing arm (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • Nearside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Wishbone (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • Offside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Wishbone (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Compare with the MOT pass from Feb 2020 (544 miles less than current) which had no advisories, and the fail from 10 days earlier:

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):

  • Front Brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
  • Nearside Front Shock absorbers likely to become detached (5.3.2 (a) (ii))
  • Parking brake efficiency less than 50% of the required value (1.4.2 (a) (ii))

Repair immediately (major defects):

  • Offside Front Brakes imbalanced across an axle (1.2.1 (b) (i))
  • Nearside Front All direction indicators incorrect colour (4.4.3 (a))
  • Offside Front All direction indicators incorrect colour (4.4.3 (a))
  • Nearside Front Macpherson strut damaged and seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • Nearside Front Upper Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Now, I'm seriously conflicted here. On the one hand I'm grateful to the garage for pointing out the nearside front issues (seriously I've never seen such a wobbly wheel, it was virtually hanging off) and the damage to the underside caused by inept jacking by a garage (not a tyre change) in the wrong place, but on the other hand I don't feel I should be made to pay for things to pass an MOT which I didn't ask for or need - the intermediate service would have highlighted the front wheel problems, but not the parking brake (which works fine by the way) or the floor. All these works must now be done to pass the MOT, an MOT which wasn't even due until Feb!

The garage acknowledge their mistake in performing the test, and have said they will give me an estimate tomorrow which will take this into account when costing the works required to gain a pass. 

What do you guys think about this scenario? How much do you think I'm looking at? How much should the garage knock off? Will the Momentum warranty cover me for any of this (don't have the paperwork with me, it's in the car)? What about the obviously spurious MOT given by the garage in Scotland back in February, is there any come back on them for passing a vehicle so obviously unroadworthy? Should add they didn't actually sell the car, that was a used car dealer down the road from them. 

Any thoughts gratefully received, thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Janner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 8:04pm
Hello and welcome in.

Well I can't personally answer all your question but from experience those mot fail and advisory lists always look more frightening and worse than they actually are, and on the jacking point thing Yes I'm shocked miffed and baffled as to why the sill jacking points for the scissor jacks get mashed to bits which then rusts out the sills.

Good luck and I hope there are others that can help you with your questions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote keithSRI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 8:08pm
Oh wow... I don't know what to suggest you should do myself sorry, but....wow Dead

Hope you come to a suitable and viable resolution with the garage in question.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote roy.2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 9:27pm
The garage should only charge you for an MOT. It would have cost you more for a service. It is better to find these things out now and not be driving around in a dangerous car!
I would be getting in touch with the seller to see about the warranty, best of luck with that, If you get no joy, then get Trading Standards involved. I hope you can get this sorted, Thumbs Up   It's not a good way to be introduced to the Nissan Primera. Ouch
Roy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ahmed bossman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 9:39pm
hi and welcome

not sure the best way to go about it,

might be best to go back for a refund if possible but doubt they will payup..?

as said above, i dont think that it usually is as bad as it seems



Repair immediately (major defects):

  • Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively damaged significantly reducing structural strength Floor pan (5.3.6 (a) (i)) -  can be welded and fixed, hopefully a cheap repair if bodged just to get the car back on the road
  • Offside Front Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i)) - replacement springs are about £35 - £40 new, can be picked up cheaper second hand if you can source one. also its a reasonably easy DIY job if you have the tools, usually spring crompressor is the only non general tool you need, everything else can be found in your normal toolbox
  • Nearside Front Wheel bearing has excessive play (5.1.3 (a) (i)) - replacement part is £45-50 posted. again might be worth getting a replacement hub with the complete strut which may work aout cheaper for the whole assembly, this way its a 2 min swap for the strut to replace the spring you need above, and replace the hub is easy for a diy job than replacing the bearing as you generally need a press... can kill 2 birds with 1 stone this way
  • Nearside Front Brake hose excessively deteriorated (1.1.12 (b) (ii)) - brake hoses are again relatively cheap, can be picked up for about £30 each new.
  • Offside Rear Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a)) - could be a sticky caliper, not too much elbow grease to free up yourself at home. also might just need adjusting as the cable has stretched?
  • Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i)) - same as the above

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

  • Nearside Front Track rod end locking device missing - Dangerous -im not sure if this is just a nut at the end, thats cheap and chips to replace a nut, even if its just the locking split pin at the end.  if you need a replacement track rod end, they can be picked up for £10 - £15 posted
  • Rear Fuel Pipe/s corroded Filler neck () - just had a look on ebay, theres a second hand one for about £70 which is quite a punch, may be able to find cheaper from a breakers yard
  • Nearside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) - tyres are cheap and can pick up part worns for ££20-£35 depending on sze of tyre fittted with good tread if desperate .. of course new is better.
  • Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c)) - could just need a clean up with a bit of sand paper and some paint, done this before and never had any issues becassue the pipe was not actually damadged
  • Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area damaged but not considered excessive Floor pan (5.3.6 (a) (i)) -  no idea, could be a welding jobby as the mount is rotten
  • Nearside Front ABS warning wire insecure. - get a cable tie to fix that or can replace a missing bolt if ones missing or replace if worse comes to worse...
  • Offside Rear Position light not working,but More than 1/2 not functioning - sorry no ide... could it just be bulbs?
  • Nearside Front Macpherson strut corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i)) - get replacement strut shock absorbe, again you can pipck up second hand ones cheaper
  • Offside Front Macpherson strut corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i)) - - get replacement strut shock absorbe, again you can pipck up second hand ones cheaper
  • Nearside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Trailing arm (5.3.3 (b) (i)) - - get replacement part or welding may be required
  • Offside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Trailing arm (5.3.3 (b) (i))- get replacement part or welding may be required
  • Nearside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Wishbone (5.3.3 (b) (i))- wishbones are about £40 to £50 each
  • Offside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Wishbone (5.3.3 (b) (i))- wishbones are about £40 to £50 each



hope this helps

thanks
ahmed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Grim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 10:19pm
As a tester I can tell you I’m responsible for anything I test for 28 days and corrosion 3 months .
Also if the garage you’ve taken it to have logged it and given you a failure sheet your previous mot is no longer valid even if shows as still tested online. If it was me I would call the seller and tell them you want a full refund plus any costs you’ve incurred and they need to collect the vehicle. If they refuse call the dvsa and the tester will be summoned to a neutral place where the dvsa will inspect your car and if they find it’s not up to scratch the tester will be in deep shit and I mean deep! I’ve known a few testers have there work scrutinised by dvsa and they are like gestapo ...


Ha read it through again and your well past 3 months let alone the 28 days. So my post is useless to you 😁.
Having sad that although it’s annoying they did the test without your permission or request would you really want to drive around in a car that’s not safe ..
Sorry I scraped all those primeras ☹️
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The_Great_Cornholio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 10:20pm
Thanks for all the replies, particularly Ahmed for that comprehensive break down of potential costs, that's really helpful in advance of the conversation I will be having with the garage in the morning. I still can't get my head around why the garage which MOT'd it in February felt able to pass it - with no advisories - having itself failed it 11 days prior, as per the above list of fails/advisories, and having clearly not done any of that work which they themselves said had to be done. Trading Standards is an excellent shout, I hope to get video of that front wheel tomorrow, it's really shocking it was allowed to pass an MOT in the state it was in and I don't blame the garage I'm seeing tomorrow for failing it, my argument there is that an MOT test was not legally required.

Will keep you posted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ahmed bossman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 10:27pm
keep us updated and let us know if you have any questions, we may not be able to help, but its always good to hear questions you may have ! hehe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The_Great_Cornholio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by Grim Grim wrote:

As a tester I can tell you I’m responsible for anything I test for 28 days and corrosion 3 months .
Also if the garage you’ve taken it to have logged it and given you a failure sheet your previous mot is no longer valid even if shows as still tested online. If it was me I would call the seller and tell them you want a full refund plus any costs you’ve incurred and they need to collect the vehicle. If they refuse call the dvsa and the tester will be summoned to a neutral place where the dvsa will inspect your car and if they find it’s not up to scratch the tester will be in deep shit and I mean deep! I’ve known a few testers have there work scrutinised by dvsa and they are like gestapo ...
 

That's interesting Grim, the only problem there is the garage which passed it in Cumbernauld is not the garage I bought from, though they are clearly hand in glove as they are on the same road. Yes the garage down here have logged it as a fail. I'll see how much it's going to be to rectify before I decide what to do, reluctant to demand the seller takes it back as I really like the car, but equally I have to be realistic. Whatever though I won't let this go, that test centre needs to be held to account - they put my life in serious danger, conditions on that 8 hour drive back were treacherous as it was, without having a wheel which could have flown off at any time. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ahmed bossman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 10:39pm
having thought about it... if youre going back to them with costs...

i may aswell give you some more numbers to rack up the bucks

if worse comes to worse, and cant free up caliper regarding the handbrake issue, youre looking at another £40 for replacement caliper, again cheaper if you can get hold of second hand.  you may need a new cable if the handbrake cable has snapped can be £15 or £30 depending on which needs replacing (they come in 3 parts, centre, and then they split to left to right... you may need centre and the side parted one. but thats absolutely worse case and like i said you might not even need it... but just as add to the numbers hehe


all the best, keep us updated :)


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'98 AJ4 Flame Red Primera P11 GT
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