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Nissan Primera P12 2.2 DCI Starting issues

Printed From: Nissan Primera Owners Club
Category: General Open Forums - NO TRADING!
Forum Name: Nissan Primera Help & Queries
Forum Discription: NON Paying Members Q&A Section
Printed Date: 23 Feb 2020 at 4:44pm

Topic: Nissan Primera P12 2.2 DCI Starting issues
Posted By: Fourth
Subject: Nissan Primera P12 2.2 DCI Starting issues
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2018 at 5:11pm

Firstly before I start I'd like to say I have read several threads on starting issues etc however have struggled to come to a conclusion on what the fault is, so thought it would be easier to start a fresh.

Car is a P12 2.2 DCI 05 plate. @ 65k miles

Has not started for the last few weeks now. Initially it took a while to fire up, (for a day or so) then would not start up all together. The last time I drove it, as the revs dropped low the engine cut out (this happened 2 or 3 times)

As it stands the engine does turn over but does not fire.

So far I have tried the following;

-Checked Battery, Trickled charged + tried another Batt (no joy)
-Disconnect and reconnect the Immobilizer which I believe to be relates to the NATs? Located underneath the stearing colloum.
-Removed fuses for the Rear lights (to eliminate possible earthing fault) no joy

I have only owned the car around 3 weeks and have noticed the electrical issues in relation to the steering column (Radio display changing + volume when turning the wheel). Unsure whether these were early symptoms of this issue or unrelated.

I am Unable to Jump start the car as I have twice and the engine will not fire.

Bit of a head scratcher for me, any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated, or a process for fault finding cheapest < expensive. Hoping this is something I can rectify myself before calling out a Mobile Mech.

Any further questions please do ask!

Many thanks,

Posted By: p11primeragt
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2018 at 5:37pm
Sounds fuel related.Either somewhere is drawing air in or it's the scv that's playing up. That can cause non/hard starting issues too.Checking the fuel pressure (psi) on live data will soon pinpoint if it's bad or not.

You could get somebody to crank it over while you try some easy start into the intake housing,if it starts and then soon cuts out that means it's fuel related.


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2018 at 7:47pm
I would agree, have you tried the hand primer, it should get very resistant the further presses after on or two pumps

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2018 at 8:57pm
Thanks for the reply.

How do I go about checking the PSI on live data? Is this something that I need kit for?

I will try the easy start this Friday, thanks for that! I'll let you know how I get on.

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2018 at 8:59pm
Hi Timeshock.

What are where is the Hand primer located?

On another note I have just read the guide on ECU reset Inc fuel pump. Is this some that will assist me or am I getting ahead of myself? It also mentioned it would display error codes if any arose.

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 9:40pm
Hi I have just got back from holiday, so just picked up your post, I don't know if you have made any further progress? Hand primer bulb is on the underside of the fuel filter housing on the bulk head on the right hand side, very easy to get to

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 10:17pm
Ahoy Timeshock!

I took off the air filter and whacked in some Easystart while it was being turned over, engine fired up. I haven't touched the ECU reset as I was unsure of its relevance.

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 11:14pm
Fuel pump, fuel pressure, splits, or leaks, collapsed/blocked fuel filter.
Hand prime and see what happens

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 5:50pm
Hi TS,

Have hand primed and it will not firm.

Voltage at the fuel pump (under the back seats) is reading 1.8v I assume it should be nearer 12v? I have just read a similar thread in relation to this and it was resolved with a change of fuel filter. Going to give that a go tomorrow as it's only a tenner, however I'm unsure how this has a relationship to a low voltage at the pump.

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 6:18pm
I think changing the filter wont harm it has been know on its own not to allow the engine to start, however I think you have a split somewhere on the fuel lines. I have no idea regarding any relationship between pump, voltage and the condition of the fuel system

Posted By: nassinron
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 7:08pm
hi there  not too savi with  site  .  but here we go  does any one know if  ECU  needs reprograming after fitting second hand one with  ALL  numbers matching  on p12  primera dci 2.2 .  03  plate 
 regards ron

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 7:15pm
Yes it needs to go to the dealer, ECU is part of the nats

Posted By: nassinron
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 10:44pm
thanks for reply timeshock.   have you any ider  of the cost for reprograming .    this car as been my waterloo.   i  retired  from  the motor trade 3yrs ago .   good job  as its  changed so much.  over the years.   is there any one  other than agent with the gear .   as its a renault  lump and there ele. 
thanks again timeshock. 

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2018 at 12:31am

It is not that much but prices vary so ring around for quotes. Surprised you needed to change the ECU

Posted By: nassinron
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2018 at 10:55am
hi time shock.  thanks again for your time . its a very long story.  it started  years ago.  called the AA/out we agreed it seemed  like the crank sesnor  had gone, so i put a new one  on  no joy there.   nothing showing on dash.     up shot  3 mates garages later 2more AA  call outs  2 rac  1  green flag. still  no joy .and still nothing on dash,   the car would  start  but when it got to tempritcure , just very hard to restart.    pulled the plug  off the temp/sensor  fired stright up FULL REVS TILL i put the plug back. renewed  sensor   no joy. so rewired a switch  on to dash , so ran like that for a long time .  then went back to not starting .     theres   more but ill leave it there and get to now.  i have 2 more cars  .  so i laid  the old girl up.   last week i stated her up  as i did this  ever so often as you do. low and behold it came up on the dash , faulty control  unit.    just do not trust agents , after working for for a few in the past.  1981 barran datsuns west ozy  they were ok  .  just in case,/ nats system  is locking the doors ?     but not too sure about the imoblzer , iam not a auto ele/ 

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 6:51pm
Originally posted by timeshock! timeshock! wrote:

I think changing the filter wont harm it has been know on its own not to allow the engine to start, however I think you have a split somewhere on the fuel lines. I have no idea regarding any relationship between pump, voltage and the condition of the fuel system

Today we got round to changing the Fuel filter! Took a while to get to it (wiper arms were SOLID) but once we did it was rather stright forward. Hand primed with new fuel filter fitted... no joy. So the options now are either Lift pump replacment (back seats one) or get someone to have a look at the electrics running to the pump. We are still unsure about the 1.8v... any advice?

Also the Service manual states there should be a drain hose coming out of the bottom of the fuel filter? There is not one on mine, it this just an additional for draining or is it actually ment to lead somewhere?

Thanks, F

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:09pm
Did you follow the bleeding operation and it still did not firm up?

Air Bleeding EBS00GX7

After fuel filter is replaced and after fuel system components are

removed/installed, bleed air from fuel path as follows.

1. Move priming pump up and down to bleed air from fuel path.

2. When air is bled, pumping of priming pump becomes heavy stop

operation at that time.

3. Crank the engine until it starts. Do not crank the engine for more

than 30 seconds.

4. If the engine does not starts, stop cranking and repeat step 1


5. If the engine does not operate smoothly after it has started, race

it two or three times.

6. If air cannot be bled easily (pumping of priming pump does not become heavy), disconnect feed-side of

hose between fuel filter and electronically controlled fuel injection pump. After that, operate priming pump

and confirm that fuel comes out.

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:30pm
Yes we have downloaded the ESM, and followed the steps mentioned above. The pump did not firm and no fuel came out of the pipe.

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:40pm
If you kept pumping the primer and no fuel I would suspect either no fuel, leak on the fuel line between tank and primer, of broken filter housing/primer

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 7:07pm
Hey TS.

I've had a bloke check the fuel pressure and that was okay. Does that cover the integrity of the lines?

I have ordered another Fuel pump (the one under the back seats) I think some people refer to it as the lift pump/sender unit? Will have a go at changing that this weekend.

I'm just trying to work out if this model is a common rail fuel system or a electronic pump or something? Someone asked me but I wasn't to sure!

Many thanks


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 8:22pm
Well you have confused me with that pump location, the 2.2 DCi is a high pressure common rail system with the pump and suction control valve on the back of the engine

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 11:59am
Okay, I'm referring to the one that sits in the fuel tank underneath the back seats I've heard it called the lift pump or Sender unit. This is the one I have ordered a replacement for as there was to fuel coming out of the outlet when the engine was being cranked.

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 3:19pm
it's not a pump but the fuel level sender to the gauge. I simply don't understand if the fuel pressure is meant to be OK if the primer does not work, except for air getting in the fuel line between tank and primer or primer and fuel pump on the back of the engine.
Have you tried the fuel pump reset?" rel="nofollow - -

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 6:04pm
I've just tried the Pump reset but no joy.

I am on a slight learning curve at the moment haha. Reading the ESM I was under the impression that there is a "Fuel level sensor unit, fuel filter and fuel pump assembly" Ref: FL-6.
   However this is with the exception of the YD22DDTI. Is the YD22DDTI the engine that is in the 2.2 DCI model? Or not.

If this is the case and there is no pump but just the sender unit in the fuel tank, does that mean that if I were to remove the out put line and crank the engine no fuel would emit from the sender unit as it requires suction to exit?

When the pressure was checked was via the ECU I believe as apposed to a guage on the lines.

Thanks for your patience

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 7:05pm
The YD22ddti is the low pressure turbo version of the DCi so they are not quite the same. Your second para assumption is correct. Start checking those line for splits, tears and loose connection points

Posted By: Fourth
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2018 at 10:07pm

Ahoy, almost a year late - however I thought I’d return to this post and summarise as I know people (inc myself) read through old posts to assist with fault finding and identify similar symptoms.

Long story short, the hand primer was faulty, along with misdiagnosed from the mech I called out... I was at a loss. Ended up taking her to a diesel specialist and it ended up being the SCV after all!

She's been running sweet since it was replaced and hopefully for many more years to come, many thanks again for D&G TS.

Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2018 at 10:37pm
Excellent news, so two faults hand primer and svc. If it was that bad Im surprised it did not throw a fault code.Thumbs Up

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