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URL: http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=80222 Printed Date: 28 Mar 2024 at 9:57pm
Topic: Heart transplant K11, don't ban me yet!Posted By: daskulthomas
Subject: Heart transplant K11, don't ban me yet!
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 11:18am
Allow me to introduce myself,
First of all I've actually never owned a primera, only ridden the back seat once and stared down engine bays that held SR's in them.
My first car in fact, was a Silvia S12. Back then my knowledge of mechanical engineering were: 'rwd + turbo = doriftou!' due to the stuff picked up watching Initial D and playing Forza motorsport.
This is where turning wrenches started for
me, replacing worn bushings with polyurethane, ball joints, worn dampers for
coilovers, reconditioning brake calipers, a basic fmic install and beginner
wiring work was all adding to my resumee when things took a turn fort he worst.
On a moist morning i had it’s first track
outing without checking my tire pressure, resulting in the view above. With it’s
wheelbase shortened 200mm on one side i knew i had to manage another set of
wheels to pick up partsforthis one.
Few weeks later i inherited a March/Micra through a friend.
With a few dents and a few bad sensors it set me back less than a week’s
paycheck to have it running correctly. Even though it was slOoow i figured it
was perfect for hauling parts fort he next 6 months or so i calculated the
restoration to take. In the process i was reminded i had never welded in my
life and wanted a forged bottom end among other things so things took a little
longer than expected…
In the following year(s) i've picked up some welding classes and began building an understanding,
almost respect sort of vibe towards the simplicity and ease of access of the little
K11, a different set of wheels and some small suspension work followed decreasing
the (immense) body roll.
But one part that always bothered me, was it’s 0-60 time of
16,5 seconds
What you’re watching here is a GA16DE derived from a P11-144,
the head, pan and valve cover were taken off for inspection and fresh gaskets
installed. The Garrett T25 from my S12 was fitted since I won’t be refitting
that later, I rebuilt it’s entire rotating assembly as the housing and turbine
wheel were warped after it’s imminent shut down after the crash. All of this I’m
trying to run off a P10 SR20DE ecu with nistune installed (83JXX series) . Matching
SR 269cc top feed injectors are also fitted on a diy fuel rail.
Further mods include:
DIY mild steel Exhaust Manifold
GA16i distributor/CAS sensor
PRW2 ignitor chip, S12 Ignition Coil
Austin Mini Aluminum Sports radiator with modified
in/outlets (25 to 35 o.d)
S13 CA18DET Maf sensor
Generic cone air filter
EGR, A/C and steering pump delete (car had neither)
Oil cooler with thermostat sandwich plate
SLC free 2 Lambda controller
As of currently the car won’t fire as the ref triggers for the
CAS aren’t fed 5v by the ECU (pin 22 & 30), currently double checking my loom
while waiting for another ECU to arrive.
By the time i get the engine to fire and it’s keeping it’s fluids
and guts in i’ll finish the exhaust system (currently just a diy 2,5” mild
steel downpipe till about the firewall), try fit in an S15 FMiC if there’s
space and try tidying up the bay.
Hopefully that clarifies my visit here! When i run into
trouble i am hoping some of you might be able to assist me. Any questions or
requests of photo’s i’ll be glad to supply.
Cheers
Replies: Posted By: essNchill
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 1:33pm
Hey and a big welcome to NPOC :) You won't be getting banned for any of this, we all love a fast Micra and your project and progress using Primera parts to get it to this stage, is awesome!
I've sorted your piccies from your opening post.. Keep the updates coming.
Enjoy the forums and take care, Shaun
Posted By: Stevie-Boy
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 2:44pm
Welcome, this looks awesome, please keep us updated with progress and pictures!!
------------- 2023 Tesla Model 3 Performance Member of the Month: Jan 2014 ex P11 Si, P11 GT, P11-144 Sport+, P11 GT Turbo, P11-144 Wagon, Subaru Legacy B4 RSK, 350z, Type R
Posted By: roy.2
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 2:45pm
Hi Das. Welcome to NPOC.
Amazing work you are doing there.
------------- Roy
Posted By: keithSRI
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 5:56pm
This. Is. Awesome.
Welcome!!
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Posted By: ragt20
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 7:19pm
welcome to npoc, was a tasty looking S12 that, shame it ended up like that...
------------- FAO : Laurens, I am not Shaun. FAO : bavs83, I am not Tan. VZR-CHECK, VZR-N1-CHECK, P11 VE-CHECK, P12 20V-CHECK, XTRAIL VET-CHECK
Posted By: Blue
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 9:02am
Sorry to see the S12 in such a state but hopefully we'll be seeing some great things with the K11 - It's shaping up to be awesome!! Welcome to the club
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Posted By: Janner
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 9:16am
Welcome and awesome project.
Keep up the good work.
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 1:03pm
Hi and welcome to the forum, looks like some great project work
Posted By: p11primeragt
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 4:43pm
Welcome to the forum
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Posted By: schwen
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2018 at 8:46pm
Welcome to the forums, what a nice read!
------------- P10 Army - G20.net MOTM April ´09 - NPOC.co.uk COTM April ´11
Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 10:02am
Thank you for a warm welcome,
and thanks essNchill for fixing my broken links!
As for updates, still haven’t
had it firing.
I’m consulting the P10 and P11
FSM’s on here to work it out, though showing an OBD2 style ECM harness layout,
i’m hoping pinouts are more or less the same. I’ve had a go at turning the CAS
by hand with the ignition on and i’m hearing the injectors clicking, so at
least my timing is reaching the ecu and i’m getting fuel i guess?
Whatever it is that’s not giving
me spark is before the coil (tested, and even then replaced with a spare. Also
checked it with a light bulb just in case.), so i’m currently suspecting my PRW2
power ignitor, even though it’s showing continuity in all the right directions.
In the meantime some photo’s
will be spammed from earlier stages.
Since i hadn’t heard the
engine run some rattle straps were trown over a beam in the shed to take the
sump off for inspection. All looked nice in here yet it had to be taken off
anyway to create and entry for the turbo’s oil return, some beaded tube was cut
off piece a scrap and welded in place.
In the spirit of ‘rather safe
than sorry’ i decided a fresh head gasket wouldn’t hurt. This was also a nice
opportunity to check the head, valves and pistons for any weird coloring or mayo
(coolant meeting oil). Luckily in my case none of that was the issue, the
existing head gasket looked practically new!
I had looked into MLS or
copper options but couldn’t find much readily available. The design of the
stock HG looks promising on itself though, and heard from an acquaintance that
it is able to withstand boost creep up to 1.2 atmosphere (17 psi) through
personal experience.
If it wasn’t clear already
this is a budget build, i’m not looking to run ¼ mile times or 20psi of boost. If
i can succeed in tripling the stock output of 60ps and maintain daily driveability
i’ll be a happy man. I will take it out on track when it feels stable but this
will mostly be used hauling parts and leave bimmer boys baffled at traffic
lights.
Posted By: RS Tom-Hundred
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 1:15pm
Welcome to the club and good luck with the build - all looking good so far!
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Posted By: Dunmanifestin
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 7:55am
Welcome! Great work so far, keep it up and always more pictures!
------------- --Kuro P11GT Saloon-- COTM April '13
Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 12:38am
Previous post may have been a little boring, onto the
modifications that were made.
Space is a concern dropping one of these engines in a micra.
Those who have tried the swap before tend to adapt the stock gearbox to a GA
via an adapter so a K11 flywheel/clutch assembly can be fitted, preferably a
1.3 box since these are supposedly stronger. When that’s fixed 3 of the stock
motor mounts can be assembled and the pulleys side is cut and welded with one
motor mount left to worry about.
I for one prefer to keep the gearbox matched with the
engine. Not only are micra gear ratios short, i don’t expect it to last long
with the torque it will handle. This requires
custom motor mounts, drive shafts, and positioning later on, which i will
discuss later on…
In order to save space prematurely i took the crank pulley to
a lathe at my job. Since i am not using a/c cause it’s only hot a few days a year,
the front belt pulley was removed. I forgot to take photos of the process or an
before & after, but this is a vague photo of what i ended up with.
(Un)fortunate for me, the motor was bought with everything
except the exhaust manifold missing. This partly had me decide to force induce
it… the other part being i still had a T25 lingering around with no destination.
I work with heavy metal on the daily and had always dreamt of building a
manifold! I took some basic measures of the exhaust ports, written them down
and decided to plasma cut a flange. As a metal working trainee i spent a few
months behind an industrial plasmacutter that cuts pretty accurately and up to
15mm thick. A few calculated holes into scrap bits of mild steel had me leaving
two flanges.
From here it was merely an estimate of where i’d want the
turbo to sit, get some thick walled mandrel bends and angle grind like no tomorrow.
I wanted the turbo to sit close and snug to the block as possible, but stay
away from a Log manifold, as the idea of exhaust pulses pressuring the back of
valves is something i wanted to prevent. The results aren’t quite an equal
length, pulse tuned header, i ended up tacking together more or less a semi-log
kind of design. As long as the exhaust flow directs towards the turbine i’m
hoping to save wearing my head gasket if marginally.
After all was tacked i took it to an acquaintance to have it
TIG-ged, less tension is created in the material this way and will save it from
cracking prematurely.
With the mani being so compact i forgot to think about the
turbo’s orientation. I was going to re-orient
it anyway but with the wastegate so snug i’m curious to see how it’ll behave. I
might opt for an external wastegate in the future.
Present progress:
Wiring the P10 ecu mixing SR looms with GA and CG did my
head in, despite the waste of effort and $$ a Microsquirt MS2 standalone could
be obtained through an acquaintance and am currently wiring that up now. Advantages
include: bye MAF, hello MAP! (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) Losing about 6
plugs in the loom and space in the bay for smaller piping/air filter, full
programmability of course, ease of wiring etc.
The only mayor adjustments that will need to be done are
swapping out the CAS triggerwheel for one that’s MS compatible and adding a IAT
sensor (Inlet Air Temperature).
Posted By: surreyGT
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 12:55am
this is superb keep the updates coming.
------------- in the garage P11 GT back on road/track P10 eGT immaculate road car BMW 130i sport (for wife) 350 Z new track car 2003 Swift GTi mk2 racing car 89' Celica St162 GT coupe 1988 Several other 3.0 BMW's
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 9:25am
Great update
Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2018 at 1:09pm
The way i came to this build was
through an acquintance who i had talked to before with a GA16i B12 Sunny
boosting it on a budget, which had run for a while and quite reliably.
When i found out the GA series
were relatively easily fitted in a K11 i asked him what the requirements were
to make it run and he came back with a surprisingly short list of components:
Turbo (appropriate size, whichi i
had laying around collecting dust)
SR20 Injectors (270-370cc)
SR20 MAF
SR20DE Ecu (preferably w/ nistune
to balance the maps regarding rich fueling)
Previously i showcased the
exhaust manifold on a budget, the injectors were a little bigger expense as i
didn’t have a spare set laying around since i’ve never been interested in
tinkering w/ SR stuff. Through a respectable seller i managed to pick up a
P10GT ECU, 269cc top feed injectors + rail + FPR (which delivers the same
pressure anyway but spares never hurt) and S13 CA18DET MAF all at the same
adress. With the recent decision to utilize a Microsquirt ECU instead the MAF
and ECU turn out unnecessary, as the microsquirt utilises Manifold Air Pressure
and Inlet Air Temp sensors to register the incoming density and calculate for
fueling. When you compare this to a maf – which measures in Front of the
compressor housing and throttle plate – it registers as close to the inlet port as you can get which negates
the eventual rich fueling when pressure drops in the inlet circuit by a Bov or closing
throttle.
Anyway let me showcase the build for
the fuel rail, the easiest and fastest way for anyone to do this is obtain an
aluminum extrusion profile, or as listed on ebay ‘universal fuel rail’. Then
cut to size, determine outlet distances, drill, tap the ends for hose barbs.. Straight
forward stuff when using top feed injectors! It’s a little more difficult for
side feeds, as the seats need to be machined etc, probably more cost effective
to purchase something here.
In my case i had to adapt a
little since the O-rings on the injectors protruded into the rail and would piss
out gasoline straight on the head. I came up with some spacers i made on the lathe that fit snug on the
injectors and would rest on some seeger rings.
The stock pressure reg bolts
straight onto the stock rail, to adapt for that (again, budget, holding out on
aftermarket unless/until i really need it) i drilled through a big bolt and cut
a little flange which i welded to it which bolts straight into the rail. There are
SR20 adapters out there that mate top feed injectors to side feed inlet ports
(these are way wider) so a set of them and some made up brackets considered the
fuel delivery adressed.
Upon raising the rail I noticed the throttle cable
needed a little detour, adjusting the bracket was a 5 minute job.
Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 11:27pm
Thank you all for the kind comments! To be
quite frank I didn’t expect this forum to be as active, or maybe the stupidity
of this build is attracting the attention. 😊
A Lot has happened in the meantime, but I’ll
attempt to write everything as chronological as possible.
I left off upgrading the fuel gallery, I
rebuilt the turbo myself a few months ahead, as it turned out the rotating
assembly casting had warped. The entire rotating assembly is all new parts;
housing from Melett, turbine wheel from Kinugawa, upgraded to a 360 thrust
bearing and tapered oil seal. Upon bolting that all that was really left was to
plumb the oil and water lines to the turbo. Oil feed was tapped off the oil
pressure sender with a T piece and I had some lines made up at the local
hydraulic shop, an oil restrictor is not something they usually sell so I just
welded it shut and drilled it through with a 2mm drill. it’s not a ball
bearing, but I doubt it would hurt doing so.
Water lines were pricey stuff, only cause
600psi stuff was the only stuff in stock that would fit a 14mm banjo onto the
rotating assembly. There’s a coolant
plug on the exhaust side of cylinder 3, I decided to utilise that for a feed
and weld a bung onto the retour pipe for the exiting side.
In a previous post I welded a beaded pipe to
the oil pan for the return line, however I didn’t like the way how my downpipe
was within an inch of a rubber hose , upon reconsideration a few months later I
lended some stainless hydraulic line and a bender to make up an oil return out
of is. I had a few minutes on the lathe to make a little flange with a chamber
cut inside to house a copper ring to seal the rotating assembly side. The other
end of the line was welded onto a banjo fitting which would connect to a bung
on the pan side. Not only will this refrain any oil spilling from tearing
rubber but hopefully it will support the manifold a little too instead of
everything stressing off the exhaust studs.
I brought the engine on a trailer to a friend
where I had access to a hoist and a dry area to work in. the old cg10 was out
the same evening I arrived, from there it took a few days to align the engine
in and make up some motor mounts. in hindsight I would’ve tried to offset the
engine a little more so I wouldn’t have to cut a piece out of the chassis rail to clear the water pump pulley,
but I’m confident of my welding skills and I’ll probably be doing a little
bracing later on.
I decided to keep the stock gearbox as a CG13
box would sh*t itself within a few mild pulls, that doesn’t go without saying
the stock GA clutch would hold up. At the time I wasn’t aware of any readily
available aftermarket clutch kits to fit a GA, I know of an exedy copper disc
but was out of stock on the few places I seen it. Asking around I stumbled upon
a company few hours north that specialise in custom clutches! Basically they
would take in the old clutch and pressure plate, make sure the springs are
within spec and take the old clutch lining off, calculate what linings need sintering
on (a copper composite in my case) and replaced the pressure plate for one with sufficient clamp force. All of
which cost less than a brand new exedy!
old
new
Since the original box will be used hybrid
drive driveshafts were in order. CG13 CV joints are noticeably beefier than the
10’s at the wheel side so a pair was sourced. The GA gearbox was taken back to
the place where the engine came from, where drive shafts were found that seemed
to fit.
When the engine was mounted the CV joints were
taken off and all 4 drive shafts cut in half, the lengths necessary were sorta
eyeballed with the CV stubs in the box and spindle and the suspension
compressed (there’s about 2 inches of play within the stub for margin). A
smooth finish was made on the lathe and a thick walled tube made to fit snug
over the 2 halves and tacked together. To prevent warping and make sure it was
a true straight it was clamped in the lathe before welding it crosswise.
I don’t have many photos of the process cause
of the constant trouble shooting and drive to get it done and out as quickly so
I wouldn’t hold up his own agenda , but after 9 days or so the shape was coming
together.
Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2019 at 10:32pm
Block and
drive sorted for, the stock radiator wasn’t gonna fit back in place cause of
the garrett protruding (the eagle eyed would’ve noticed). What I did was
compare small aluminium radiators online and settled for this classic mini design.
It fits comfortably between the headlights and doesn’t sit in the way of
anything. The stock joiners were 25mm od, in fear of choking coolant flow these
were cut off and welded 35 od tube in place.
The
planning was to run the whole thing of a SR20DE ecu with nistune to optimise
the mismatched setup.. after a number of weeks trying to figure how to splice
the two looms together, I decided the setup wasn’t only confusing but not
ideal. I sold the nistune ecu and asked a familiar for advice on installing
megasquirt.
What you
see here is an ms2 board in a waterproof casing next to a stock Nissan ecu, it
needs about 60 less in-/outputs. Switching to MS the things altered included
removing the bulky MAF sensor and replacing it with a mazda MAP sensor accompanied
by an intake temp sensor to calculate fueling. You could run MS easily off a MAF
but measuring Manifold Pressure as close to the inlet ports as possible means
you won’t have to account for pressure gains and/or losses, what we see on our
pressure (boost) gauge is exactly what the ECU reads as well. MS uses a more
basic trigger system and it’s processor isn’t fast enough to read the stock Nissan
360/4 optical trigger discs. An aftermarket 12-1 wheel was fitted and managed
to get it running for a while!
aftermarket optical trigger disc
magnetic trigger setup (reads 0 ohms whenever tooth passes by)
After a bit
of trail and error on trying to get to read the camshaft position correctly we gradually
lost signal during our first test drive,.. (in a nutshell older MS-boards don’t
like hal sensors) in turn we later on fitted a 36-1 trigger wheel for
crankshaft position, which is still going strong.
Posted By: schwen
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2019 at 6:54am
What a huge amount of work! Well done
Btw, loving the wing mirrors and the door caps for the oem ones
------------- P10 Army - G20.net MOTM April ´09 - NPOC.co.uk COTM April ´11
Posted By: ragt20
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2019 at 6:01pm
looks like nice work, but the youtube vids not working for me..
------------- FAO : Laurens, I am not Shaun. FAO : bavs83, I am not Tan. VZR-CHECK, VZR-N1-CHECK, P11 VE-CHECK, P12 20V-CHECK, XTRAIL VET-CHECK
Posted By: roy.2
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2019 at 6:53pm
ragt20 wrote:
looks like nice work, but the youtube vids not working for me..
Not working for me either.
------------- Roy
Posted By: daskulthomas
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 4:52pm
Odd, worked fine before. Links to videos below
https://youtu.be/wQIJpJ4OY5w" rel="nofollow - first start https://youtu.be/gxUXY4_SnzI" rel="nofollow - failing cas https://youtu.be/LEgGcFUNuIM" rel="nofollow - ride along