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Nissan Primera P12 audio malfunction

Printed From: Nissan Primera Owners Club
Category: General Open Forums - NO TRADING!
Forum Name: Nissan Primera Help & Queries
Forum Discription: NON Paying Members Q&A Section
URL: http://www.npoc.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=81119
Printed Date: 16 Apr 2024 at 11:46pm


Topic: Nissan Primera P12 audio malfunction
Posted By: perpakyrse
Subject: Nissan Primera P12 audio malfunction
Date Posted: 07 May 2020 at 4:13pm
Hello! 

I am new to this forum and new as an owner of a 2004 P12 1.8 litre petrol wagon. I've searched my way through this fine database of ours and didn't find anything like this.
My radio is unable to find stations (nothing even when I manually input a known good broadcasting station). The CD does work, but the issue with audio playback is horrendous quality. 

Upon starting the car I can hear the speakers pop quite alarmingly, pointing to something going on with amplification. After this the music comes on very muffled and distorted. The level of muffling and distortion varies on its own (meaning that the engine rpm has no effect). After x time elapsed, the audio volume and quality equalizes and clears up to a comprehensible state.
One curiosity I discovered is that the loudness setting does absolutely nothing. Also the max volume comfortable to listen is around 5 green bars with a very steep curve between steps of volume.

Things I've tried:
- Charge the battery
- Check battery terminal tightness
- Checked fuses to be OK
- Simple earth fix on both rear lights
- Cleaning and refitting of B-pillar ground points (M17-18 i believe?)

Things yet to try:
- Grounding of the cars aerial, which's ground point I've yet to discover (even from the manual)
- Reconnection of the CD player (due to the ratio of my understanding of centre console trim required to remove and time to complete such a feat)
- ???

It isn't new and it sure isn't perfect in other areas either (problems that probably shouldn't be discussed in this post).
The thing has had two error codes pop up (multi cyl misfire prior to clearing the codes and cyl 4 misfire after). There are two main problems with the engine at the time, which are 
- running/accelerating jerkily
- having a hard time starting randomly,
neither of which have anything to do with the engine being warmed up/cold.



Replies:
Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 07 May 2020 at 4:40pm
Hi and welcome to the forumHandshake
It's good that you have taken the time t research the forum.
As you have found out earths are very important om this car, I would continue doing what you are doing in particular the aerial earth although to me it sounds like a capacitor broblen on the audio board.


As for you starting and jerking problems and it may just be be linked to the audio but  doubt it, check the two main battery earth leads, one to the chassis the other to the transmission, ensure good solid connections and no breaks in the cables.Thumbs Up


Posted By: perpakyrse
Date Posted: 07 May 2020 at 5:34pm
Thank you for your reply.

I will check more grounding points around the vehicle, especially the ones in the engine bay. Could you point me the vicinity of the aerial earth, because I don't seem to find information on it.

Let's assume that the actual CD/radio unit (model CY-100) is broken and a replacement should be fitted to regain functionality. To my understanding the new unit must be recoded somehow by Nissan in order to make it work with my vehicle. Is this the case or could I leave the unit stashed into the centre console somewhere and connect the speaker system + aerial to an aftermarket one?

I'll report my success/failure and findings to this thread.


Posted By: timeshock!
Date Posted: 07 May 2020 at 7:39pm
I believe the aerial is the ground.

A replacement unit would have to be re-coded by the dealer unless you got an expensive replacement from clarion. It has been done the way you describe with an aftermarket unit.


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 08 May 2020 at 10:53am
Welcome to NPOC,

You may be able to get the Radio repaired by Clarion Service. Probably not worth it.
http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Home.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Home.html

Aftermarket is an option below the Factory Radio. Requires some cutting of the Console.

Your Engine may have a stretched Timing Chain with those symptoms.
That probably needs investigating before spending money on the Audio.


Posted By: perpakyrse
Date Posted: 08 May 2020 at 10:52pm
I have successfully fixed the audio issues by installing a spare aftermarket unit I had, keeping the original powered and mounted with terminated connections for easier removal in the future. I never inspected the aerial earth but seeing that radio now works, there was likely nothing wrong with it. And with only two screws left over!

@imckay Thanks for the link, though it would definitely not have been worth it shipping my radio to Clarion. The stretched timing chain seems to be the most likely cause. Would there be any sense in inspecting my spark plugs and/or coils? I could rule those out by swapping coils with adjacent cylinders and visually inspecting the plugs.


Posted By: imckay
Date Posted: 09 May 2020 at 9:43am
Good to hear you go the Radio sorted. £80 for Clarion Repair for a similar fault but 10 odd Years ago!

No harm in swapping the Plugs/Coil around. I believe the Coils do sometimes fail.
Not really my area but I recognised the Chain symptoms from other Reports on here.




Posted By: Hibberd
Date Posted: 16 May 2020 at 12:27am
Hi could you help me with putting a aftermarket radio in please am a bit lost with the wires I've worked out the speakers ones but it's the all the yellow ones am lost with when coming to wiring with a more up to date block

Thank you


Posted By: Hibberd
Date Posted: 16 May 2020 at 12:28am
Originally posted by Hibberd Hibberd wrote:

Hi could you help me with putting a aftermarket radio in please am a bit lost with the wires I've worked out the speakers ones but it's the all the yellow ones am lost with when coming to wiring with a more up to date block

Thank you


Posted By: perpakyrse
Date Posted: 16 May 2020 at 6:32am
Sure can Hibberd!
I assume you are contemplating on which yellow wire to use for your BAT/constant 12v connection. You can use either one for it. I guess the original headunit has two connections to be able to pass through power for all the other optional electronics available officially (sat-nav, subwoofer, cd-changer).

Now in terms of hooking up to these wires what I did was the following. Cut the cables for ACC and BAT, leaving ~5cm of cable to the connector end. Crimp on male 6.3mm flat insulated connectors to the connector end, and 6.3mm insulated piggyback connectors to the loom end. This way you'll be able to power the original unit and have connections available for your aftermarket one. 

Then crimp female 6.3mm flat insulated connectors onto the corresponding wires of your aftermarket headunit (constant 12v and ignition power) which you can connect to the spare ones on the piggyback connectors. Using the types of connectors I did you are going to want to protect the ACC/BAT connections from shorting to bare metal. I used insulation/duct tape, you can use anything that suites you. I've attached a picture of these connections below.

For ground you can use the metal supports of the centre console, see image below. Available points are on either side of the trimless centre console, I used the left hand side one.

Images for reference:



Posted By: Hibberd
Date Posted: 16 May 2020 at 12:31pm
Hey thank you for your help,

so the:
(pink) went the red wire
(A yellow) went to the yellow wire
You made a ground for the black wire?
What about the orange and blue wire?

I've noticed you have lift the speaker wire in the original socket?

The problem I'm having is while I'm driving the radio cuts off back on and so on haha I have to hit the side unit for it to come back on I think there's a loose wire somewhere


Posted By: perpakyrse
Date Posted: 16 May 2020 at 1:34pm
Those are the connections yes. I would check your own connections with the wiring diagram of your particular radio. I did extend the black ground wire on my radio and crimp on a spade connector for grounding.

For the speaker connections I cut the wires and crimped on 4mm insulated bullet connectors for connecting to the corresponding ISO wires on my aftermarket radio.

The orange wire on an ISO 10487 connector is for headunit screen dimming, which is a feature that my headunit did not support, so it remains unconnected.

The blue wire on the other hand is used for various things, amongst which is connecting it to an external amplifier for remote power (like the ignition for your headunit, wakes it up to draw power only when other accessories have power). If you are not considering adding a subwoofer or other audio gear requiring an external amplifier, leave this unconnected also.

So to clarify, with an additional aftermarket headunit mounted, the only connections to the original headunit (connector M51 W) are Yellow-Red, the two Yellow wires and a Red wire (pins 1-4). None of the speakers are connected to the original headunit (pins 5-12).

Useful links:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1lN7L4LbsdMPLvsM4-bc48y8jVvppbiPmMLz2IbHzV4E/htmlview" rel="nofollow - Pinout for the Primera headunit
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connectors_for_car_audio" rel="nofollow - The ISO standard for aftermarket headunits


Posted By: Hibberd
Date Posted: 16 May 2020 at 9:38pm
Thank you I'll try it out soon,

Have you still got the nissan head unit powered up aswell? witch I take it that's what the yellow/red wire is for then?


Posted By: perpakyrse
Date Posted: 18 May 2020 at 10:19am
Yes, that is the sole reason i've "tapped into" the power wires of the original unit instead of cutting and connecting them directly to the replacement one. This way there is no possibility to trigger the SECURE message (at least to my knowledge, if the original radio doesn't self-destruct). 



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